johncox
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Everything posted by johncox
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Should have mentioned I'm in Canada. But I don't mind an excuse to DIY!
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Hey, I'm considering picking up my film cameras again and I need to know who to go to to get it developed, if they will allow me to specify developers and push/pull etc. I'll scan the negatives. Thanks, John Also, I'm shooting 120 (6x6 6x12) and 35mm.
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Zeiss ZM planar 50MM F2 (black) with back cap, lens hood and hood cap. Works and looks perfect. Asking $525 USD inc shipping to North America. Ships with tracking, accepting only Paypal.
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<p>There may be focus shift at wide apertures especially on the 150.<br> My cheat sheet for medium format depth of field is to multiply the focal length increase by the aperture. For example 6x6 is roughly three factors of 35mm. so the times f2 would be f2 ->2.8-> F4 would be equivalent. For a more advanced calculator look at:<br> http://dofsimulator.net/en/</p>
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<p>There are rules of thumb too that vary with the meter. Generally if there's lots of light you want to close up a little bit, if there's very little light most of the time you'll be more trusting of your meter. You'll correct the underexposure by increasing development. -If you find an old Pop Photo magazine from 1960-1998 there will probably be some great info on this subject. A large portion of there articles seemed to be about this alone.<br> <br /> The other option is to use a digital SLR as a meter and take the shot with it first. If the image looks good there then it will probably look good on film. There's two issues there however. The main one is that digital cameras are arbitrary with the concept of ISO. What's 100 on one could be 50 on film or 400 on another. The other issue is that the dynamic range is very high. So getting something to look good on a DSLR is a lot easier than on a roll of Ortho.</p> <p>I hope that helps, although it may not make things easier.</p>
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<p>I've personally had good luck on more modern film slrs at that speed and smallish enlargements. I would guess with a IIIc it would be no different.</p> <p>David is right, technique is very important for this to work. </p>
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<p>I think the people at autopano have done this, I know they have several near that. Worse case scenario you buy a blade server and some panorama software.</p>
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Where is this (blue/purple) light leak coming from?
johncox replied to stelwyn_hynt's topic in Leica and Rangefinders
<p>That could have happened in developing.</p> -
<p>My lab charges me the same price for any formats 4x6, $0.99 per. so it could be worse I guess.</p>
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Metered Incident Instead of Reflective
johncox replied to nate_ely's topic in Black & White Practice
<p>Indexing is when you set up your film and camera/meter to a chemistry, usually at a certain speed. I used my L-398 with the bubble on when I was indexing my film (Arista ) and I have a speed and development routine that works well for me.</p> <p>In the past you would index your film to labs as well. As one mini lab might be + a stop while the grocery store was slow. -When you have 3 color films and 5 black and whites to manage it was a head ache! It was the main reason I started to develop my own stuff. </p> -
Metered Incident Instead of Reflective
johncox replied to nate_ely's topic in Black & White Practice
<p>What meter are you using? I leave the bubble on my sekonic l-398 and have my film indexed for that when shooting reflected. It works fine and I haven't noticed much of a difference when shooting incident.<br> You should be OK, but your meter might be different. </p> -
making film holder for Perfection V600 scanner
johncox replied to kaugu_ciems's topic in Medium Format
<p>I'm pretty sure it focuses at a fixed distance. I would look into the lomo or better imaging film holders to save your self a large amount of trouble.</p> -
<p>An hour outside Toronto and black and white. I normally develop myself, but as I said, have not got around to it.</p>
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<p>I have about 30 rolls of film I just haven't got around to doing(35mm and 120). Does anyone know of a decent mail order place that isn't too expensive. I'm in Canada.</p>
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<p>I recently picked up an M2 for about 380 US. The chrome could use some polish, and, side from replacing the leatherette it was a great deal. I've tried 99% alcohol and an eraser. Is there anything else that could shine up the chrome on this bargain? <br> Thanks in advance<br> John</p>
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<p>I've sorta been under a rock for a while and haven't done any real post processing for a long time. If I took 7 or 8 shots handheld and stitched them together would I see an increase in functional image size (along the lines of how Olympus does their 40 MP JPegs)?</p>
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<p>I know that for medical imaging in Ontario (particularly X-Rays) they have an on site dark room at the hospital/dentist. <br> I think the title is "medical imaging technician". This may not sound great but at least its proof that its out there.</p>
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How can I find out what I am doing wrong?
johncox replied to felix_k's topic in Black & White Practice
<p>Looks great to me.</p> -
<p>Don't rule out lighting or temperature. In bad light, AF can take longer to line up and cold can cause electronics to lag depending on the camera. If the entire roll is shot in one location or time period, it could be an overlap to location or weather.</p>
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<p>Foma 200 (specifically the 200) is a decent film and a third the cost of T-MAX.</p>
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<p>I have a few questions about the CL. <br> I know that you can put a M3 lever on a M4-p with the right tools and parts, is it also possible to do that on a CL?<br> I know there were a number of improvements made to the CL over its production. Should I go for a late body to get the most improvements? I would prefer a Leica body.<br> Has anyone had their CL recovered in a different texture from a company like camera leather?</p>
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Artist: john;
