parv

Adrian, are you going to some AdSense web-page or other interface where from you go to some photo.net URL? Else the title of this thread is highly misleading. (Use of "AdSense" is to show advertisement to make money.)

You lucky son of a gun, Gerry, that you would get 50 Mb/s (megabits per second) download speed on the "neighbor island". Around these parts, 1 Mb/s mark is barely broken (Time Warner Oceanic/Road Runner). As to check your down- & upload speeds, try http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest or http://www.speedtest.net/ .

<p>What kind of focus mechanism are you looking for, autofocus only?

Thanks, Paul.

Jack, would you please post your threads about mirrorless cameras, like Sony NEX 7, in Mirrorless Digital Camera forum available at http://www.photo.net/digital-camera-forum/ instead of posting in Sony/Minolta SLR System forum?

Nice weevil, Paul; is it a crop? I might have seen the scaly sand plant somewhere. What are those tubular dark-grey things on the plant, fungus?

As Gerry had mentioned, a raw URL in plain text starting with "https" is not recognized as a genuine link & turned into one, as opposed to the one starting with "http". Here is an example ... - raw HTTP link in plain text: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bitteralmonds/ - above without me doing anything takes me to (raw HTTPS link in plain text): https://www.flickr.com/photos/bitteralmonds/

See also "Leica mystique".

Flickr, for one, forwards "http" URL requests to "https".

Thanks Gerry for putting the words of my wish.

<p>Some variations on horizontal flash mounting ... <ul> <li><a href=" Flash Mount</a> </li> <li><a href=" D Tilt/Swivel Light Stand Umbrella/Flash Mount, now with Stroboframe Type Metal Clamp Cold Shoe and Horizontal Flash Mount Bracket</a></li> <li><a href=" Flash Umbrella Mount</a></li> <li><a href=" Horizontal Flash Holder with Umbrella Mount</a></li> <li><a href=" head flash mount</a></li> </li> </ul>

Mark, page at the URL list may methods to block the visible light. Which one did you choose? I myself had been using film negative, until it cracked and/or I lost it. After that, I just switched to radio triggering (manual flash control) and/or don't care for the light from the pop up flash. I had used iISo-to-ISO adapter to put on Stroboframe cold shoe[0]. But then darn thing becomes rather wobbly. Not to mention in any position besides normal vertical position puts extra load on the flash shoe, that worries me about the flash shoe breaking|weakening. Instead I have switched to putting the flash horizontally on Manfrotto bracket (Manfrotto 143BKT Camera Platform for Magic Arm)[1,2], that works with radio receiver to be used bare, with umbrella or softbox. For light stand & umbrella mount, see "Lighting 101 - A Beginner's Lighting Kit"[3]. [0] http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/52772-REG/Stroboframe_300_SHO_Flash_Mount_Adapter.html [1] http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5184-REG/Manfrotto_143BKT_143BKT_Camera_Platform_for.html [2] Instead of Manfrotto 143BKT, a wider platform of plastic or aluminium plate with 1/4" or 3/8" threaded hole could be used. That certainly would be more stable. [3] http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101-traveling-light.html

AFAIK rotating or tilting the flash head from "normal"/default position prevents HSS mode in Minolta|Sony SLR flashes, at least until Sony HVL-58AM (and Sony A900). Therefore nothing is wrong with the your flash; it is working as designed, apparently to not your linking.

Buy both. Failing that, add a lens case to be attached to smaller of the bags you would buy, which may not allow built in rain cover, if any, to be used effectively.

Lex, the second character from Naruto seems Gaara to me: http://naruto.wikia.com/wiki/Gaara

Send me a Sony A77, then I would be able to share, possibly worthwhile. ;-| Have you tried elsewhere: Dyxum, Photoclub Alpha forums[0], Flickr group(s)[1]? [0] http://www.photoclubalpha.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=32 [1]

Steven, Phottix Odin is mainly for TTL & remote flash control support. If you can work with manual flash control, you could try manual RF trigger meant for Nikon or Canon sans adapter; see Phottix Strato (original) or version II as examples. Sony had introduced new version of multi interface hot shoe with A99, which looks similar to ISO shoe. That hot shoe is also found on A7. See also about contact alignment issues ... http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3735090

Can anybody else see the image from OP as I cannot? The HTML looks to be normal enough (though only the "height" attribute was specified, no "width" for "img" tag); also, the posted image link is redirected to elsewhere. The redirected image link goes to http://s18.postimg.org/qix3dl1p4/Untitled_34.jpg which is not just an image but a web page. Currently the image by itself is http://s18.postimg.org/nc2jtyh94/Untitled_34.jpg FWIW.

Sony HVL-F20M does not need an adapter for A6000 as both have same specification for the hot shoe: Sony multi interface hot shoe. It is the HVL-F20AM (notice the "A"), with Sony|Minolta iISO hot shoe, that would require the adapter to use with the new Sony MI hot shoe.

Sony A6000 is NOT a SLR(eflex) but a mirrorless camera.

Panasonic LX100 does use 4/3 sensor but the actual area used for imaging is smaller, which is still larger than that of 1 in sensor in Sony RX100. Per Camera Labs review, http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Panasonic_Lumix_LX100/, only things it has over Sony RX100 ii, iii are: f/2.8 at 75 mm & built in EVF, AFAIC.

Why would you even consider Sony A7 if its images that you had seen offend you? If images of Sony A7 are bad, then how could images of Fuji XT1 or Olympus OM-D EM1 cameras be any better in the light of requirement of images under low/poor lighting? Somebody else could argue about reality of film vis a vis digital medium. Or, you could knock yourself out reading about that around these parts.

"ts" & "ba" both fit in "E _ _ y" to make an online entity where one can buy|sell things. So this is about EBay, not Etsy (note to self).

Fawzia has started another thread on the topic: http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00d2iM

<p>Why is the exposure time of 1/50 s, not 1/30 s or 1/200 s? Why is the ISO of 100, not of 400 or 800? <p>Depending on ambient light conditions, a "standard" flash would need to be firing at full or half power at "reasonable" distances to "properly expose" the subject at ISO 100 (and f/5.6 of lens aperture). And, dimly lit background would likely go dark|black. <p>On providing you the settings, see <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/shutter-speed-aperture-iso/">shutter speed, aperture and ISO</a> by Neil v N. See also some of other <a href="https://duckduckgo.com/?q=iso+flash+aperture+site%3Aneilvn.com&kag=1&kf=fw&k8=333&k1=-1&kx=r&kz=-1&kaa=p&kp=-1&ka=c&k9=b&kn=1&ko=1&kt=g&kae=c&kv=1&kd=1&kaf=1">articles on the topic</a> ... <ul> <li> <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-dispelling-some-urban-legends/">flash photography – dispelling some 'urban legends'</a></li> <li> <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/when-aperture-does-not-control-flash-exposure/">when aperture doesn’t control the flash exposure</a></li> <li> <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/using-higher-iso-settings-with-flash/">why use such high ISO settings with flash?</a></li> </ul>