AJG

<p>SMC and SMC-M lenses meter stopped down, and accuracy isn't always that great. SMC-A and all AF lenses meter wide open if you have the aperture ring set to A, past f/22 or whatever the smallest opening is on a particular lens. Any LTM mount is designed for a much shallower body, so an adapter (if there is one) would require optical elements for infinity focus, so you're almost certainly out of luck with the Cosina 15 mm. <br> I also have found the compactness of the Pentax DSLRs one of their best features--nothing against Nikon, Canon or people with large hands!</p>

<p>You might want to look at renting rather than buying if this is a one time thing--that way you could get a better housing that might work better.</p>

<p>For what it's worth, I have stuck with Pentax and haven't regretted it. Newer bodies will be vastly superior to the *istd in every way, (I have owned the K10, K20,and currently use K7 and K5). Your lenses (which are all great ones in my experience) won't auto focus, so they won't be as useful for photographing a fast moving child.<br> Whenever anyone asks me about what what dslr to buy, I always tell them that there aren't any terrible dslrs out there but there are definitely better and worse ones for different jobs. A lot of this has to do with controls and placement and I strongly recommend that you try out cameras in a store to make sure that you know if they feel right to you. It doesn't matter how good the lenses are if the camera feels wrong.</p>

<p>What lens are you shooting with? I don't know about the Contax flash, but some flash manufacturers are a bit optimistic about how wide an angle the flash actually covers</p>

<p>You should try the Contax and see how you like it. It has a distinct personality and great lenses that you might like or not, and the only to find out is to use it. Any 1950's vintage camera is likely to have issues, even Leicas that haven't been serviced recently by a competent repair service. </p>

<p>Based on your condition description, I would use the Contax IIIa with a separate meter and take Gus Lazzari's advice about not making extensive repairs on the other body. I have two IIIa's that are both functional, although one of them caps the shutter at 1/1250 so I don't use that speed with that camera, and I haven't found it to be that much of a limitation. My professional work is all digital--my Contax is for fun, so the lack of convenience and reliability isn't a huge issue for me. When the bodies finally quit they will become shelf queens, and perhaps I will then investigate a mirrorless digital body to use the fine Zeiss and Nikon RF lenses I have acquired.</p>

<p>If you want a 35 mm wide angle for your Contax cameras, be aware that the Nikon RF cameras shared (mostly) the lens mount. Lenses 50 mm and longer won't focus accurately (unless they are the versions marked with "C" on the lens barrel), but 35 mm wide angles from Nikon are fine on the Contax--I have a 35 mm f/2.5 which focuses accurately enough and is quite sharp. It will cost a lot less than a 35 mm post-WW2 Biogon, and unlike the pre-WW2 Biogon and Russian copies will fit and function properly. Good luck.</p>

<p>If you can deal with manual focus, you might look for a used Pentax 85 mm f/1.8. I still have mine from 1978 and it is still one of the sharpest lenses I own on both film and digital.</p>

<p>Normal 35 mm should work, the problem may be finding a drugstore to process it. Depending on where you live, you may need to send it out. Interesting camera, by the way...</p>

<p>You can also rotate the cardboard cores 90 degrees every day when you come in to your studio and eliminate the sag problem that way.</p>

<p>I don't know of anything like this on the market, but I think you could probably take a 58-72 or 77 filter step up ring and drill some holes to stitch through. Good luck on your project.</p>

<p>Spiratone used to sell "Focus Extenders" which were fractional diopters similar to what you are looking for. I never used them, so I have no idea how much of an optical compromise they would be.</p>

<p>It sounds like too much agitation when you developed the film.</p>

<p>You could try a Sigma 12 -24--it covers full frame for Nikon or Canon.</p>

<p>The sync circuit on any modern studio strobe is isolated from the main power supply of 120 V AC, and 4.3 volts should be safe with any camera that I am aware of, so you should be OK with a PC cord with the Leica R6.2. The radio options would definitely be safe, since any camera module I've seen is powered by batteries that would have voltage well within a safe range for your camera. I have used at least 8 digital SLRs with Buff X series studio strobes with no damage to any cameras or flash units.</p>

<p>Lex--your selfie made my day. Finally, a good use for those fancy Photoshop filters...</p>

<p>It depends--if you have a 39 mm threaded board, then you can just unscrew your current lens and screw in the 80 or 90 that you get with the same 39 mm thread. If it uses a retaining ring, then you would remove that from your current lens and use it to mount the new one. If you have flat boards and change formats often that will get old very soon...<br> In that focal length range, most modern (post 1970) lenses will mount with the 39 mm thread. Some older enlarging lenses mount with a 25 mm thread instead and that would require a different lens board.</p>

<p>It is IIa black dial.</p>

<p>Omega and Beseler are both great--I used an Omega D2 for years, finally replaced it with a Zone VI which is even better for B&W. The usual head is for up to 5x7, and there is also an 8x10 head that fits the same chassis. Because they are big and heavy (my 5x7 long column is in the vicinity of 150 pounds!) they go begging on eBay, but my Zone VI is built like the Brooklyn bridge and never goes out of alignment.</p>

<p>Never saw the show, but most of my memories of long PC cords revolve around tripping over them... </p>

<p>I believe this will have a PC terminal, but if you're using it a lot with studio strobes I would strongly recommend a radio triggering system like Pocket Wizard or Paul C. Buff Cyber Sync, which will work with a hot shoe.</p>

<p>Two probably familiar replies: for a book, Light Science and Magic is one that I can heartily recommend, even though it isn't specifically aimed at portrait work, and as for equipment, you have indicated a desire for more lens speed in a zoom lens. For individual portraits, that 70 - 200 would be a great choice if you can deal with the size and weight, and it would also work on a full frame Nikon if you decide to go that route. Are you happy with the quality of the images you are getting now? If you are, then spend on the lens you really want and keep the current body. If you are interested in studio portraiture then lighting should be your next investment in both learning and equipment (in that order). While full frame cameras certainly have advantages, plenty of professionals work with DX and get great results--see comments from Kent Staubus on Photonet, they would be helpful for you, I think.</p>

<p>This is an interchangeable screen, so you could take it out and clean it. It is a bit small and difficult to get to, and the best tool for the job will come with a replacement screen. The dust you see could be on the side of the screen facing the pentaprism, and removing the screen would be the only way to get to it. If it is only one spot I would probably learn to live with it, but I know how annoying dust in the finder can be, so a light blast of compressed air might be worth a try.</p>

<p>Thanks, Pete. I went ahead and am teaching the class anyway without benefit of a projector. Great information about browsers and battery life--it wouldn't have occurred to me that the Flu Card is constantly transmitting and consequently draining the battery. I expect I will be getting a K3 in the next few months and I appreciate your reply.</p>

<p>How are you exposing the paper--with what kind of enlarger? Also, are you sure that the emulsion side of the paper is facing the light source? This sounds like you may be trying to print through the paper rather than directly to the emulsion.</p>