brittany_r._dunks

<p>Okay, I have looked at that setting and it was set to the same as you screen shot shows.<br>

So, I guess the consensus is to go by what my image looks like in PS? if set to sRGB like it shows above it will print as it looks in PS only?<br>

sorry, I'm so confused. :(</p>

<p>Okay,<br>

As of now, I have it in sRGB icc profile:<br>

<img src="http://www.dunksprints.com/Other/test/srgb-profile/1038962700_hTp6g-XL.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="523" /><br>

and when I save as it looks like this: <br>

<img src="http://www.dunksprints.com/Other/test/save-as/1038962679_gGUAK-L.jpg" alt="" width="567" height="600" /><br>

Is this correct?<br>

I thought that since my lab prints in sRGB, I should be editing in that as well? And I did check smugmug in Firefox and it still looks red. I printed on white paper (I don't have photo paper) and the image appears to be on the reddish side.<br>

thank you</p>

<p>When I upload the image from the folder to smugmug, it looks like the red version. If it looks this way both in the folder and online, won't it print this way too?</p>

<p>Okay, I just don't understand why this changed when I calibrated my monitor? And what setting should my PS be in to get my prints correct? is it sRGB IEC61966-2.1 or custom or Working CYMK etc. <br>

I don't know what it was set to by default. </p>

<p>second photo</p><div></div>

<p>Please, please help! I recently posted a question about monitor calibration issues. The monitor is now calibrated, I started to edit in PS CS3 and the colors of the image in PS look drastically different than what I am viewing in Windows. This is a new problem and I don't know which image is correct! <br>

I know that I can change the view-->proof set up of PS, but what do I change it to? I can't even remember what it was set to before. I feel like the more I read, the more confused I get. <br>

I feel like I need to start everything over, but I don't know how.<br>

Here are the two photos, the first is what it looks like in PS and the 2nd what it looks like when I view it in Windows folder.</p><div></div>

<p>So, I was wondering if anyone who previously commented in this thread could advise me once again. I've heard mixed reviews from what mode I should start the calibration.<br>

I have calibrated in Standard and Custom modes, to experiment and they have different results. I guess this is to be expected. But what mode should my monitor be in the start the calibration tool? <br>

thanks for any help</p>

<p>thanks all, I have ordered a calibration tool which will be here tomorrow! I am going to run it and see if it makes a difference. <br />I agree, I think it is an issue of sRGB on the monitor, the colors look dulled down and darker. On another note, I believe that images straight out of the camera are warm by nature. I have two sets of photos from another 2nd photographer with the same camera and they are all warm toned, as well.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Okay, I've looked into that as well, and of course still am confused! (I'm not a technical person!) So what preset mode should I be on? I had it on Standard but chose sRGB since it was already calibrated. I need to buy a calibration tool, I've already considered that but I thought that the monitor was calibrated so haven't done so yet.</p>

<p>Well, that's another source of worry. I have a dell u2410 monitor which is factory calibrated in srgb and adobe rgb. I am using srgb profile, which I am not even sure I should be using but have chosen it since that's the color space my images are recorded and edited in. It's not that the whole image is yellow, it's just the hint of yellow which looks different than warm to me, but maybe I'm wrong. <br>

I just tried to reduce the temperature again on this in RAW, down to about 4200K. Image attached. maybe it is that all my raw images are just warm? </p><div></div>

<p>Yes!<br>

I started to upload an image but I had to leave before I could find an easy example.<br>

here is a dng converted to jpeg, unedited:<br>

Since it's underexposed, when I edit it it gets worse.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi All,<br>

I have been shooting raw off and on, but lately I've been choosing it for it's obvious benefits. It seems as though all my images have a yellow tint to them. I shoot Canon 5D Mark II, use Adobe DNG converter and then open in Camera Raw-->PS. If they are under exposed etc, when I adjust for this the yellowing it's even worse.<br>

I don't think it's an issue of white balance, which I adjust and experiment with to see if the yellowing will go away. My only solution that I've found is to adjust selective colors in PS CS3. I've searched for this issue online and haven't really found anything and I'm wondering what exactly it is that I'm doing wrong! This never happened when I shot jpeg, but I don't want to go back to shooting jpegs. <br>

Can someone perhaps explain to me why this would happen? Or how to best edit raw/dng files... or any advice! I'm so frustrated. :(<br>

<br /><br /></p>

<p>What's your favorite PROFESSIONAL lab and why? I'm not interested in hearing about walmart, costco etc.<br>

Anybody have an opinion on Bay Photo?</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p>Also, I get a lot of repeat clients and referrals. I take this into account and sometimes give them a little discount if they book me multiple times. But I feel like I need to stick with similar prices for these people, even when I raised my prices, which isn't fair to new clients (that may know them). <br>

I just feel stuck!</p>

<p>Hello All,<br>

I go back and forth with the idea to change how I run my business. Currently I do weddings and portrait sessions the most (baby, maternity, family). This post has more to do with portrait sessions, my wedding packages are pretty competitively priced.<br>

I charge a flat rate based on their needs in which I include a CD and an online album for printing through smugmug. I don't really want to change that, I am not the type of person who wants to sit and fulfill print orders, I'd rather shoot, edit and send them the photos and be done with it.<br>

I do get some sales through my smugmug, but I do not upcharge them much so it isn't a profit-maker, it just gives me a way to send them online however, if asked, I do recommend people use their services over say, walmart etc.<br>

The thing that bugs me is I KNOW I can make more money if I charge for prints and/or a CD release. I feel that everyone wants and loves that they get a CD and I would like to continue to do that. <br>

I feel that I could get away with charging much more for my flat session rate because I include the CD but I am fearful that since I've developed a network and clientele with my current (too cheap!) rates that I'll be starting over or it'll be a shock to people if I raise my prices say, $100-$200 in a day.<br>

Has anyone ever dealt with this? Transitioning from one business model to another and how did should I do it?<br>

I feel like I can slowly raise prices, which I have already done, but I don't think I want to wait too much longer b/c I'm getting over-worked. I feel if I raise my prices it'll keep me at a better pace while still not losing much money.</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p> </p>

<p>haha. If someone would like to donate a prize to the cause, I will certainly allow you to win it!<br>

I have a 5d and 5d mark ii and use the 24-70 2.8L and 70-200 2.8 probably just as much as one another. I have a 50mm 1.8 prime and a 30mm 1.4 (for when I had my 40d) but I want to add some more primes into the mix.<br>

I think I am going to get the 85/1.8 and maybe the 135/2.0, or maybe a macro too.</p>

<p>Okay, well then the question is:<br>

What is the one lens you can't live without and on what body are you using it?</p>

 

<p>I'm just looking to see what people prefer to use the most. </p>

<p>thanks.</p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

I was fortunate enough to photograph a reception in a RED room, red walls, ceiling, floors etc. at night. I had to use bounced flash towards the ceiling b/c the room was small and I did not have lighting equipment to do otherwise. So my question is how should I best go about eliminating (if possible) or reducing the red cast? Every technique I've tried makes them look unnatural to me, or just a lighter pink shade, maybe I'm just missing something.<br>

I'm also torn between editing these to death or leaving some red tone in them, since the place had a red glow on it's own.</p>

<p>here is a very red example :(<br>

<img src="http://www.dunksprints.com/Other/test/IMG2485/966591770_8hsNd-XL.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></p>

<p>Yes, it will work somewhat and then stop working completely on the mark ii. I've been using it basically non-stop for months on the original (and again today) and it appears to focus fine. It's really weird to me. All my other lenses have not had this problem once yet on the mark ii.<br>

I feel like the original 5d may have weaker focusing abilities, so maybe it focuses "somewhat" but not enough to not take a photo. trust me, I've tried every subject, lighting, settings. that's not the issue. <br>

and yes, it was tested on auto and center focus on both cameras. </p>

 

<p>Hello all,<br>

I am now an owner of the 5d and the 5d mark ii. I also have the 28-70/2.8L which (as far I can tell) has been fine in it's focusing. It's never been noticeable to me that there were any problems with the lens.<br>

So, I tested out my mark ii with that lens, within minutes I was having focusing issues. Basically it'd work, lock a focus, then the next minute nothing but the slight noise that the camera was trying to focus on something but nothing was even moving. It was not hunting, in perfectly fine light etc.<br>

I tested out other lenses on my mark ii, no problems at all (welcome relief that I don't think it's the camera!) but when I put the 28-70 back on the original 5d it works fine (although I think that camera in general has weaker focusing, which is another story in itself).<br>

*I will note that within the past month or so, I noticed the piece of plastic that holds the AF/MF button has become sorta loose, but I was afraid to touch it b/c I didn't want it to snap off.<br /><br /><br>

What do you think could be the problem? Why does it work sometimes and the next minute no focus at all?<br>

I've heard the term, re calibrated but how and when do you know? Why would it work on the original 5d and not the new one? could it be the lens is not communicating/connecting with the new body the same as it did on the original ?<br>

thanks!</p>

 

 

<p>I've searched online and I am not sure I am writing the correct terms for this issue.<br>

I have the original 5d, which is used pretty heavily and was bought used so I'm thinking it's getting up there in shutter actuations although I have no true idea of exactly how many.<br>

I had it set on Av or manual, took a photo and the shutter opened and did not click closed. I tried to take another picture, nothing happened so I turned it off and it clicked closed. I checked the image and it was dark, not overexposed as I would've thought since it was open a long time.<br>

It didn't happen again until about 500 + clicks later (while at a wedding) where I was shooting rapidly. Same exact thing happened and then continued to work throughout the night.<br>

has this happened to anyone before? And what do you think this is a sign of?<br>

Shutter is failing and will not work at all soon? I would like to be able to sell it eventually and get a new camera, but I want to be aware of it's condition before I try to do so.</p>

<p>thanks!</p>

 

<p>Thanks for the responses. They indicated they wanted a more "traditional" style album, where they insert the photos into mats, not a flush mount/designed one. I found some sites online that didn't require being a professional studio.<br>

<a href="http://www.favorsngifts.com/" target="_blank">http://www.favorsngifts.com/</a> and <a href="http://www.weddingalbumsandmore.com/" target="_blank">http://www.weddingalbumsandmore.com/</a> and even some on ebay.<br>

<br /></p>

 

<p>Hello,<br>

I have a client that would like to print their own images and create an album. I know that I could print and send away to various professional album companies, but it sounds like they'd like to cut costs and do it themselves.</p>

<p>Does anyone know where I can direct them to order this type of album? Either inserts or possibly mount them. </p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p>Hello all,</p>

<p>I have had Lightroom 2.x for over a year, when I first got it I raved about it, maybe because it is a powerful tool, maybe because I wasn't as good at Photoshop.<br>

Over time I started learning more PS and used LR less and less, basically never. Now my re-found hate for LR has resurfaced. I am experimenting more with RAW files, so I need a RAW converter. I have CS3, where I can open raw files, edit etc. but I have found that it seems "easier" to do it in LR.<br>

I find everything in LR to be extremely slow, this may be my laptop's issue, but I don't the same level of frustration with PS. Does anyone have these slowness issues w/LR? or is it just me?<br>

And on another note, if I want to avoid LR all together, how can I open/convert multiple raw files at once in CS3? Is this possible. One thing I like about LR is I can select all the raw files, export and then edit in my preferred photoshop. <br>

I'm getting so frustrated that it makes me just want to stick to jpeg's faster PP workflow.<br>

please help me realize why I should stick to this (what seems like it takes forever) process... thanks!</p>