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brittany_r._dunks

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Posts posted by brittany_r._dunks

  1. <p>Yes, I have searched this forum for this topic. However, I couldn't find anything recent (with current product options) that applied.<br>

    I shoot weddings and baby/family portraits (1-4 people usually). I have 3 Canon Speedlites (580, 580 II and 550) and Pocketwizards and I am trying to decide if I want to buy softboxes and/or umbrellas.<br>

    I see the benefits and drawbacks of both, and I think I am leaning towards a collapsable/umbrella-like softbox, maybe a 24 or 28 inch? For my portrait work, I know this size will be fine, but I am wondering if it will be effective for wedding formals?<br>

    Of course, setup time is an issue w/weddings, but it seems like these will set up easily. I just don't know if ONE softbox and one on camera, bounced flash will be enough? If I have to light 10-20 people on an alter, would direct flash be better? or two softboxes, or one/two umbrellas.... lalala.</p>

    <p> </p>

  2. <p>Hello All,<br>

    I have had my 5DMark II for 7 short months, although there has been a lot of clicking in those months, I would consider it young compared to my well-used 5D Classic. <br>

    In the past couple of months I have noticed three separate, but all concerning, issues:<br>

    1) most recently I was shooting inside a home on Av. I had shot probably 200 frames, rested the camera on my leg for a minute to change poses and picked up the camera and noticed the screen appeared to be in movie mode (due to the screen settings and there was movement, it was "on"). I checked my settings, still Av then went into the menu to see if perhaps I accidentally switched to movie mode (not an easy thing to do) and it was nowhere near the movie setting. I finally clicked the shutter and it closed, just like it would for a movie but nothing recorded, not even a picture.<br>

    2) the Shutter itself seems to sound slow in closing even on exposures it should not. It's like it's hesitately to close but will, I have not had a stuck shutter or anything (yet).<br>

    3)One day while shooting, I believe in Manual or Av, it would not let me change my aperture. I think I eventually switched to Shutter Priority because it was the only setting that was usable. It did correct itself, but also a random worry.<br>

    So, what should I do? I am assuming it is under 1 year warranty (bought new) but how do I go about making a claim? I couldn't figure it out. And if I do so, what is the problem I report? Or should I just request "maintenance/look at it for problems"? I've never had to work on a camera w/o an actual known problem.<br>

    I shoot weddings and now I am very concerned it may fail, while my backup is a very old/heavily used 5D which also could fail at any time! ahhhh! I know I could go buy another body, but I feel this one shouldn't be having issues quite yet.</p>

    <p>thanks for any input.</p>

     

  3. <p>Thanks everyone for your well-thoughout advice! I didn't hit the "notify me of responses" and didn't respond right away! Anyhow, I am in agreement with all of you. <br>

    This lens would be mostly used for weddings and I still use my primes for portrait work, where the environment isn't rapidly changing. I almost always had the 28-70 on one camera at weddings, while switching the 2nd camera w/other ranges.... so I guess I am going to do the same with the 24-70! I just had an itch for REALLY wide, but honestly I probably will not use it much and/or I can add it down the line. thanks, I feel better about my decision now. :)</p>

  4. <p>I am using Canon 5D, 5D II. <br />I am currently selling my 28-70 2.8L and considering replacing it with the obvious, 24-70 2.8L or possibly thinking about no mid-range zoom at all and getting a wide, either the 16-35 or 17-40 (haven't decided btwn the two).<br>

    I really like the range of 24-70 but I don't have anything wide or super wide (I have 50, 85, 70-200) so I need something.<br>

    I did use the 28-70 A LOT, but I love the sharpness of primes and want the wide option too.<br>

    So, what would you do? anyone out there swear by their 24-70? Or any other lens combo. As much as I love primes, I do shoot weddings and I realize the benefits of zooms at times.<br>

    thanks </p>

  5. <p>Thanks everyone, all valid points! I think it was just fear that was holding me back, that and I sometimes wish I could be "everything to everyone" (whether it jeopardized my well-being and/or income). But then I'd get mad at myself for being "too nice" and overworking myself and not having a ton of money to show for it.<br>

    But I had to change and I knew it, so I did and I'm not looking back! And I just booked three jobs (two of which DID use me at my old price) and they are all fine with it.... So, I guess it'll be a case-by-case basis.</p>

  6. <p><<<BTW, I looked at your site and the few galleries I looked at were not locked. So any body to include your clients can simply save the files and print them at walmart. You can also sell the digital files on your site. >>></p>

    <p>If you are referring to the smugmug/www.dunksprints.com site, I have some albums unprotected so they could download the original, for various reasons, on a case by case basis. Most of them are not right click protected, but they are not downloadable and I will be offering digital downloads through them.<br>

    But all albums online currently, it doesn't matter anyway because they all received a CD.</p>

     

  7. <p>Thanks for everyone's opinions. This is something I obviously have struggled with. I just feel "bad" about it, since it IS personal. I know a lot of my clients or I get referrals from them, or quickly develop a personal relationship with them after one session, so they have me back a lot.<br>

    I don't want to turn anyone away because they can't afford it, but it's part of growth and sustainability. I was not providing a very "personal" or at times, quality experience when I was so stressed out and over worked. I'm not being greedy either, I just calculated my expenses/profit and since I live affordably, I am able to survive but it's kinda sad when I see how hard I worked and how much I actually made.<br>

    I also struggle (still) with the idea of including the disc or not, but I felt that if I charged a the new price, flat fee w/the CD included, that'd really be a shock. Not that people can't do the math and add the session price + CD price and/or prints, but maybe they could break it up and buy them when then could afford to, later. <br>

    And the idea of "outsourcing" editing is not ideal, however it'd just be basic editing to get them ready for my final touches. I can't imagine having someone else completely edit my photos, but there are times where I can't keep up and that seems like the best option... and again, this list was written as a guideline for myself, although now of course the whole world can see it if they'd like to.</p>

    <p> </p>

  8. <p>This was created for my own purposes, so I probably wouldn't include every single thing but here's the general idea:</p>

    <p>1) When I started this business I was not aware of the costs associated with running it; equipment, taxes etc.<br>

    2) When I was first starting out, my equipment and knowledge was limited and I did not feel I should charge as much as my competitors. Now I feel I offer a quality product at the same level or better!<br>

    3) My competition is STILL charging more than I do, but I wanted to provide a somewhat affordable product to average people, like me!<br>

    4) My photography is not a commodity; value should not be placed on the print itself, but the image that is on it. There are many cheaper alternate photo studios, but many times they do not take the time to make your images look their best, travel to you, work with you on your ideas or edit the photos.<br>

    5) I changed photo labs to ensure that the prints are the highest quality possible. Having a photo printed by a professional lab compared to a cheap printer (ie. CVS, Sam’s Club, snapfish etc) is a world of difference. Also, every order placed through <a href="http://www.dunksprints.com/">www.dunksprints.com</a> is reviewed by me. Digital photos can be cropped when ordered at enlarged sizes, if I see that there is a too much cut off or a head/arm etc is missing due to the natural cropping, I can usually fix it, or adjust the crops to minimize the cut off.<br>

    5) And possibly the most relevant: I could not keep up with the volume of work at the price it was being offered. Customer Service was lacking, my turnaround time for photos was getting very slow and I was unable to focus on anything in my life, other than editing. This has resulted in the decision to have my editing outsourced when I am too busy to handle it, which also adds to the cost of the final product.</p>

     

  9. <p>Hello All,<br>

    I recently changed my pricing. My sessions used to include a CD, online album and did not up-charge my prints. <br>

    Now my sessions do not include the CD anymore, and prints are charged starting at $15.<br>

    I am already feeling a little backlash of changing my system, which I was prepared to deal with.... even if I don't want to lose business, I had to change to continue to be succesful and more importantly, KEEP UP with the volume of work!<br>

    Anyhow, I have a list I made for myself explaining why I raised my prices, do you think it's necessary or helpful to share them with my clients (via my blog)? Or is that tacky and should I just leave it as it is? <br>

    It is a shock for some people, I'm sure, but I'm still not in the highest range of my competitors, I wanted to be in the mid-high range, so I wasn't completely unaffordable. <br>

    I'm just torn on whether this is a good idea or not!<br>

    advice, please and thank you!</p>

     

  10. <p>Hello All,<br>

    After reading and researching, I think I want to go with buying the RP PX system. All the demonstrations I've seen show the transmitter attached to the top of the on camera flash.<br>

    I tend to bounce my master flash, so the transmitter will be facing towards me, will that affect performance? Or is there a different solution for where to place it?<br>

    thanks</p>

  11. <p>Okay, I see that I am supposed to change the image size/res.<br>

    I just tested it out:<br>

    1) Open image in PS cs3<br>

    2) Change Image Size: 720pixels (longest size) 72ppi resolution<br>

    3)smart sharpen<br>

    4)save as<br>

    When I uploaded the image to my website it is VERY pixelated compared right next to the original and does not look good at all. I am missing something here. The images on my webpage are full screen, does that matter? <br>

    Should I be saving it at a higher resolution? </p>

  12. <p>Yes, I just started doing this process and was questioning myself. I do not "edit in external" because I do a lot of batch editing from Bridge to PS where I just let the actions run. I personally don't like LR very much, but use it when needed for certain things.<br>

    But I was just looking at LR and if I upload my raw files, minor edit and export them to dngs, that would be similar to what I was working with before? correct?<br>

    thanks</p>

  13. <p>This came up in conversation earlier today and now I'm curious if what I'm doing is wrong.<br>

    My version of PS CS3 does not read raw files, so I used to use ACR to convert to dng. Over time I found that a) this is a little time consuming and b) my computer crashed randomly when I had ACR open, which of course gave me panic attacks, so I went back to using LR for raw conversion.<br>

    My workflow with ACR was:<br>

    1)convert raw files to dng, basic white balance corrections and edits w/ACR <br>

    2)open Bridge sort/select dngs and then batch edit actions in CS3.<br>

    3)fine tune images in CS3 and save as jpeg for clients/upload to internet<br>

    My new workflow is:<br>

    1)upload raw files into LR<br>

    2)sort/select then basic edits/white balance correction in LR<br>

    3)export as jpegs<br>

    4)batch edit actions to the newly created jpegs through bridge into CS3<br>

    5)edit in CS3 and resave the jpeg</p>

    <p>I am doing basic edits in LR but the bulk of my sharpening, noiseware, fine tuning is in CS3 is on a jpeg.<br>

    Does it matter that I am now editing the raw file in LR but finishing it up in PS as a jpeg? I know that opening a jpeg multiple times is ill-advised since it's a lossy format, but it is only being opened once (when I open the new jpeg to edit).</p>

     

  14. <p>I’m in the process of changing my printing policies for my portrait sessions. Currently, I offer the session with an online album through smugmug and a CD of the final, edited jpegs. I have known for some time that I do not want to continue with this method, I’m too cheap and I know it. I know I will potentially be excluding some repeat clients, because my pricing will be too high, but I am willing to sacrifice some business in this shift. <br>

    I feel that some may be able to buy some prints (at the new prices) but may want a few digital files, without spending the money on the entire CD. I am considering offering individual digital files for those who may only want a few, which will make it cheaper than buying the whole CD.<br>

    Does anyone have any experience with this? Do people like this option? How do you go about doing it, mail them a CD with just the files they select from their proofs? I know I have the ability to allow digital purchases on smugmug but it may not be so simple for the technically inclined.<br />Any advice on whether I should offer this or just offer prints and a CD are welcome. Thank you</p>

     

  15. <p>I usually make personalized CD labels with the name/date and photo of the client, but I'm getting sick of this tedious task and wondering if I should just make a standard label with my logo and info only.<br>

    Does anyone think this is a better idea? Or do you think it should be personalized?<br>

    Anyone have a company they like to use for this service?<br>

    thank you</p>

  16. <p>Hello all,<br>

    So as the B&G are walking down the aisle, my 580ex decides not to fire (I had backup, so fine...). I changed batteries, cameras, checked the hotshoe etc...nothing. It has full power on the menu, but when you turn it on, and normally hear the power booting, it will not do it. There is no red/green light, it does not show up in that the flash is ready on the camera. So what does this mean? I have read dead circuit? Maybe the bulbs are shot? It's not too old, but not under warranty so I will have to pay to get it fixed, if need be.<br>

    any ideas?<br>

    thanks</p>

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