christopher_ward2

<p>The C-3 is fairly straight forward. Always set the shutter speed before cocking the shutter, focus ,meter and shoot. If the shutter fires after being cocked it is working. The web has several Argus dedicated informational sites. You can also search P-Net for threads about the C-3 and your particular light meter. The Cintar lens is a basic triplet design able to produce good images.<br> Chris</p>

<p>is the ring around the shutter release set to T?</p>

<p>You might try ortho/litho film developed in diluted paper developer, dektol 1:7 or 1:9. Also classic lenses have a very distinct look. A 4 element uncoated f/8 Rapid Rectilinear or Aplant lens can give a nice sharp/soft look to your portraits. A classic uncoated 6 element Goertz Dagor will give a very nice image.<br> Chris</p>

<p>The Polaroid 110 Pathfinder cameras have a cult like following. They use the same type 42/47 roll film as the J66. Many web pages about converting the Pathfinder 110 to 4x5 sheet film or 120 roll film for panoramic work. Check youtube for more information.</p>

<p> I home process my B&W and rate Pan F+ at ISO 32 or ISO 40 without the filter. I increase the exposure 1f to 1.5f for a standard #8 yellow filter. If the Kodak Reflex has not had a CLA the 1/50 sec shutter setting may be dragging and causing blur. With a TLR type camera you should not use a 'death grip' just cradle the camera in your hands, focus, exhale and gently trip the shutter. The Kodak Ektar is a fine Tessar clone and quite good below f/5.6 but a lens shade is really important with these single coated lenses. The focus could also be off. You can set the shutter to B and put Scotch tape across the center of the film gate to get basic image information.</p>

<p>The Nikon F & F2 use the same screens. I like the "P" and the "E" screens. A good CLA should be all your F will need to get it working well for another 40+ years. I have the '64 Tn & '67 FTN bodies, both have quirks but work well. A truck or a tank of a camera that definitely has character. </p>

<p>C-41 negatives are orange. You use a amber/orange safe-light in a B%W darkroom. Standard B&W paper has limited reaction to Orange light. If you can find panchromatic B&W paper, it will print color negatives with the orange mask just fine. It may work best to shoot the color film and have it developed but not printed in C-41 then darkroom print it or scan and ink-jet print it. I have developed C-41 color film in HC-110 ... interesting but not great, dense negatives that printed low contrast because of the orange film mask. Doable but not my 1st choice when 100' rolls of B&W are $40-60 ...17 36exp rolls per 100' roll or bulk film. If you feel in an experimental mood shoot the film and process it in B&W chemicals, if nothing else it is a learning experience for you in the art/science of photography.<br> chris</p>

<p>hasselblad...v h p i c t u r e s<br> 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0<br> Kodak... c a m e r o s i t y<br> 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0<br> cv '51<br> et '49<br> Chris</p>

<p>could be a miss match between film size and enlarger lens length. 35mm 24x36 50mm lens, 120 6x6cm 80mm lens, 120 6x9cm 105mm lens. You could also have the wrong condenser set in the enlarger for your film size. Check the web for an instruction manual for your brand of enlarger. A missing film holder or mask in a glass sandwich holder will project a circle.</p>

<p>pop the finder off. check the battery contacts for 3v. clean the body and prism contacts. if the voltage is less 3v you can pull off the bottom plate and check the battery box. corroded wires or poor connection from the battery box is a known F2 issue. if the meter is still off the resistor ring in the meter is worn.</p>

<p>This may help.<br /> Chris</p><div></div>

<p>Just a shot in the dark ... the positive (+) side of the battery is 'down' in the body not the negative (-) side?? The battery test will read OK but the shutter and meter will not work if the battery is upside down. With older Nikons the battery positive (+) was always 'up'. Like I said just a shot in the dark.</p>

<p>Very stylish little camera. Remarkable how good these low cost machines preform within their limited range. The most important part is the eye and mind of the user. Nice sharp/soft lens. Good work. Chris</p>

<p>Before tearing into a dp2 prism I would check the F2 battery box and body finder contacts for problems.Corrosion in the wires feeding the camera or damaged battery tab are known F2 issues. Testing the body with a known good finder is quick. Just a thought ..you did the 'Nikon twist' right?</p>

<p>Joe, to start with watch how vigorous you agitate 120 roll film. the film is much thinner and prone to buckle if you are as aggressive as with 35mm film. The cure for me with 120 film is to fold over the leading edge on the film to strengthen it ...not much just a little fold seems to help with loading and buckling. A gentle rotation while inverting move works for me.</p>

<p>A set of pictures would help. If it is real and not a tarted up zorki or kiev ...it is a 1938 IIIa. One of the most common Leica screw mount cameras. The prewar IIIa and IIIc are great shooters if working. The Summar has very soft front glass!! The lens can be a good user if the front glass has not been abused. If the lens is uncoated you really need a shade. You should have lots of fun with your 'new' leica.</p>

<p>I usually spool 6-8 36exp then double zip-lock bag the whole bulk loader and store it in the refrigerator. Sometimes have three bulk films on hand.</p>

<p>Thank you all. I will disassemble the torn bag and see if my crafting skills can repair/replace it. My hope is that the end product dose not resemble a 4th grade 'art' project.<br> Chris</p>

<p>I had my Graflex RB Series B camera out last weekend. The leather of the Bag Magazine has some holes. Last time I used it the film back worked fine ...not this time. Seems the cloth liner now also has a rip and leaks badly. The web wants to sell me other film magazines but I can find no Graflex repair listings for these backs.<br> Any Graflex SLR users know of a repair person for the leather/cloth of the Bag Magazine? I have two 4x5-12 and one 4x5-18 to be checked/fixed.<br> Chris</p><div></div>

<p>I built a 'Porta-Vu' 4x5 kit from Calumet back in the '80's. Then there was (is?) the Bender 4x5 & 8x10 kit cameras. If you have a woodworker turn of mind they work just fine. Chris</p>

<p>Looks less like grain than the result of too cold rinse water. You wash/rinse water needs to be the same as your developer temp or you get that texture on the film ,some people like it. Chris</p>

<p>I will only have B&W film for the field camera this trip. My Nikon will be loaded with slide film. I am considering the 270 Telephoto to shorten the foreground and make the background more dramatic. It is a Rodenstock Rotelar 270mm f/5.6 ,a beast of a lens but very sharp. I think a #8 yellow may be to weak for a dramatic effect ,the #15 orange may wash out the orange rock but make for a very dramatic sky. I'm wondering if a #11 green might split the difference? Darken the foreground rocks and the sky but not loose the detail in the cedar/pine trees. The 50 ISO film makes a #25a red iffy at best with any wind. With Pola45 gone I would hate to guess wrong. The old trick of flashing the filter to see the effect may have to do.</p>

<p>Passing through Utah in mid-September. Plan to shoot 4x5 B&W in Arches NP and Canyonlands NP. Would you use a 270mm Telephoto lens there? My standard kit would be a 75 ,150 and 210 lenses. With the orange rocks and green trees ,will a #8 yellow work well to separate the rock layers or should I use something else. I want to give the orange rocks punch without blocking up the trees and sky. Never shot near Moab ,no experience with the area and it's color palette.</p>

<p>Looks like a sweet camera. I would unscrew the lens and check for oil on the diaphragm and check the lens for fungus and separation. While the lens is off ,I would look for pin holes in the shutter curtains. Any fog or haze in the viewfinder or range-finder can be an issue. Be mindful ... Gear acquisition syndrome is real! It starts with "it was so cheap" and "how could I pass on that" or "well it's just one more" then your wife checks your pockets every time you come home! Have fun with classic cameras.<br> Chris</p>

<p>A 75mm is used for 120 film 6x6cm or 6x7cm ,for 4x5inch a 135mm or 150mm lens works best. Generally you match the enlarging lens to your taking lens focal length.</p>