christopher_ward2

Gently push button on rear right of finder in while lifting up. It should pop right open. Chris

You need a lens board solenoid to trip the shutter. The flash to solenoid wire can be a pain to find. Check out graflex.org. Flash units usually slide on the rangefinder.

I am getting dense somewhat uneven development across the sheet. I know with roll film to much agitation can lead to over development and shadows blocking up. I remember some developers made for machine processing in the past but do not know if they still exist. I have reduced the ISO film speed 1/3 f/stop to compensate for over agitation. I have been thinking about trying the two part developers to get more consistent results.

OK , manual agitation should help for streaks and more dilute developer for contrast build up. Dose anyone know if the unicolor or cibachrome roller bases can be used with a dimmer switch?

Looking for a better developer for the constant agitation of a print drum/tube for my 8x10 sheet film. Usually use HC-110, T-Max or Rodinol with time reduction compensation to keep over development in check. Any thought about a better developer for this style of processing? 8x10 Cibachrome drum, standard single speed motor base with 6 oz. developer as single shot.

The Nikon film SLR finder is +1 as is. My readers are +2.5 so I add a +1 diopter for shooting without glasses. For me a +2 will not work yet. The F/F2/Nikkormat are the same size (FM/FE too I think) and the FE2/FM2/FA/FG take a smaller size. The N90s, 8008s and F3HP take the same size. Hard to find even from KEH but so much better than squinting with glasses. My only camera with built in diopter is the F4. Do not mess with digital SLR cameras. Chris

unless you have access to an 8x10 enlarger, 4x5 is a better option. Cost and availability of film can be another issue with 8x10.

I have a 4x5 RB Series B. I'm 6'5" so the camera is not that big. Big reflex mirror with clear view. Hand held can be a problem with shake.The film backs are a challenge due to age, I like the "Bag Magazine" back for 12 sheets and the leather bag can be brittle or have holes from age/use. In the field the double Graflex holder is a pain. Some cameras had the ground glass replaced with brighter plastic screen by a repair shop, these are much brighter. Many had flash added by a repair shop but for flash bulbs. Repair is a real problem. Last Graflex SLR's produced c.1950. The roller blind shutter is something most repair people have never seen. I have a Series B 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 with shutter curtain torn loose from spool and no idea where to send it for repair. Check out Graflex.org, lots of articles and user info. Chris

On my QL17 the rewind button drops back out after the shutter is cocked. Have you tried firing the shutter and re-cocking it? It might just be gummed up from not being used. Good luck. Chris

The toner should be OK if it does not have sludge or particles in bottom of bottle. When the chemicals break down the toner is unstable and iffy to use. You could mix it and try with scrap prints. Blotchy toning is a sign of chemical break down. Be sure to vent your work space, selenium can be nasty. Chris

The filters for the 80mm F/2.8 are Bay50 size and a Bay50-55mm adapter works. A fine camera and lens. Chris

classic dirty rollers. Remove film pack and clean rollers then roload film pack. chris

The subject matter is totally what interests you. If you love it use chrome to capture it. The hard part is getting people to sit thru a slide show. You have 12 maybe 15 minuets tops till they get bored. Be brutal in your editing and hear the oohs and aahs of your viewers. Slides simply must be projected for their impact to be truly appreciated. When I did road trips, one body Kodak Plus-X and one body Kodachrome generally seven rolls B&W plus three chrome. People have a sixth sense about slide shows ... free food? free beer? where is he hiding the projector! Love what you shoot and love sharing your work too. Film is ethereal and only meanigfull once exposed and shared. Chris

<p>if your film is clear and without edge markings it has NOT been developed. Dead developer or fixed film before developer. If your film has edge markings after processing and nothing else could be under exposed or under developed or camera failure.<br> Chris</p>

<p>Should be a Tessar clone. From 1931 catalog coverage 5x8 inches, studio use for portrait and group. $28.80 in shutter $18 in barrel. I use a Gundlach 12" f/6.3 on 8x10. Even illumination with good coverage, fine images for an uncoated lens. Gundlach made the Turner-Reich convertible lenses and the Korona view cameras.<br> Chris</p>

<p>Generally one lensboard/lens one Packard shutter. My Kodak 2D uses 6 inch square lensboards. I bought 4 1/2" or 5" size #6 shutters and mounted them behind the lens on a plywood lensboard. I bought what I could find used and stiff wire from the hobby store for the 'instant' pin. The shutters work but the single speed is limiting in the field. I shoot slow (100ISO) film for nature/landscape work, usually stop the lens down and use 'T' for depth or just because it is dark (photographically) in the woods.<br> Chris</p><div></div>

<p>from 1931 catalog<br> Packard #5 Time only<br> Packard #6 Time & Instant<br> both 4 inch to 8 1/2 inch square outside with 2 inch to 5 inch opening.<br> Chris</p>

<p>The shutter size is more about the lens. A hole size big enough that it will not block the lens and small enough to fit the lensboard.On my Kodak 2D, I use 2 1/2" square to 5 1/4" square shutters. Depends on what you can find. All mine came used and cheap as did the old uncoated barrel lenses.<br> The 'instant' pin is just a piece of wire. The real pain is the air nipple ...hard to find used and expensive new. The 1/25 or 1/30 second works well with T used to focus. Finding used air bulbs not rotted is another issue.<br> Chris</p>

<p>Rajmohan,<br> The F2 prism contacts on the body should be cleaned and the prism contacts also. A pencil eraser works well. As noted the battery box can be a weak point, use caution messing with the tab. You can remove the bottom plate to see if the battery wires are corroded but I would clean the body/prism contacts first.<br> On a side note ... I have a F2AS, same prism just AI, I had intermittent power issues also. I had to press the contact pins for the DS-EE unit on the front of the prism to get it to work, those wires were corroded and meter needed an overhaul. The DP-3/DP-12 is a superb low light prism.<br> Chris</p>

<p>I used to contact print B&W negs onto 8x10 ortho/litho film and develop it in Kodak Dektol 1:7 or 1:9. Cut into strips and mount. This process gave me usable slides that could be toned with sepia or selenium. I used to carry two bodies, one slides one B&W. The projected images worked for me.</p>

<p>The 50f/2 is a real classic. The FT & FTn cameras are real workhorse bodies. You can remove the bottom plate to work on the battery cap, just don't loose the rewind button and it's spring. The FT has averaging metering and the FTn center weighted metering, both work well. Chris</p>

<p><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/member-photos?user_id=4099385" alt="" />I think that is just a spare knob. On my SC there is a tiny chrome button on the side of the rail to release the end cap.<br> Chris</p><div></div>

<p>Rick,<br> The Kodak 1a is not a budget camera ...Six Three is for the f/6.3 Cooke Kodak Anastigmat lens, quite fast glass for 1913-16. The shutter type will better date the camera. Other f/6.3 lenses offered were a B&L Zeiss Tessar, Zeiss Kodak Tessar and a B&L Series IIb. Would have been a good performer in it's day. Should be a focus scale and stop adjustment on the bed. The 1a retina is also a nice find.<br> Chris</p>

<p>The Nikkor 50 f.2 HC or AI is a very fine lens, when stopped down to f/4 or f/5.6 even better. The 50 f1.4 lenses are bigger, heavier and more expensive. If you really NEED f/1.4, then a great choice but the f/2 works most of the time. Plenty of 50 f/2's were AI modified to work on your camera check online or the last Nikon 50 f/2 AI if you can find one.<br> Chris </p>

<p>The Graflex focal plane shutter is interesting. I know it was offered as an accessory for other cameras. Definitely looks like an aerial camera. That is where I would start. Could be WW1 or WW2 vintage. Remember in 1942 all resources were pushed to wartime production. It could be a 'need it now' bastard or someones hobby project.<br> Chris</p>