jim_gardner4

<p>Have you got any WD40 or lighter fluid? A drop allowed to get into the threads may help. Once applied, keep the lens filter down, you really dont want that oil or lighter fluid on the lens itself.</p>

<p>Sometimes squeezing or pushing on something can make it worse by locking the threads together. Try not trying so hard if that makes sense.</p>

<p>I had good results with Kodak HIE. If I remember, I would set the camera meter at 400 ISO with a number 25 red filter in place or use a hand held meter set at 50 ISO.<br>

Shift focus to ir mark and dev in ID11 stock solution for 8 1/2 minutes.<br>

Dont forget to load and unload in complete darkness.</p>

<p>George. I have the Toyo 45 A11 When I went to choose a camera I asked about the CF but was slightly put off by the "salesman". The A11 seems very sturdy and is easy to operate, also I have never run out of movements.<br>

I have wanted an ebony for some time but I wonder if the wood is as tough as the A11 and of course they are a very different price.</p>

<p>Ask the person whos ssn is on it if they would be ok with you giving it away.</p>

<p>If water can get in there, obviously air can too. Could you use a compressor to blow air through and speed up the drying time?</p>

<p>Not into scanning really but I did buy for general use, an Epson 4990. It seems to give good results on 35mm, MF and 5x4</p>

<p>Oh come on you lot. This post is in Casual photo conversations and headed Sunday musings and as such Karim gave his opinion.The subject itself doesnt interest me and to be frank I dont care if they do a painting of the 100 metre race. But lets not slag Karim off for having an opinion. Chill pills all round I think.</p>

<p>Dean, Electronic flash guns are obviously much easier to use that older bulb flashguns but when you have the electronic one sorted, you may wish to consider a bulb type. They are great fun, give huge ammounts of light -depending on the bulb- and look great when used with an older camera. And they are cheap.</p>

<p>Across 100, Delta 100, Pan F (50) all in ID11. Grain shoudnt be a problem unless you go for massive prints.<br>

For the UK, pack some 400 as well. Lots of grey days at the moment.</p>

<p>I read all that pretty fast but surely people dont rate photos high just to be nice to the photographer do they? Whats the point in that? I have submitted a few photos for rating, some were rated higher than I expected and some lower. Its relativly interesting but I wouldnt loose any sleep over "bad scores" or do kartwheels round the room for very high ones.</p>

<p>If I think a photo I have submitted for rating is good but it received an average rating of 2 for example, so what? It shows the opinion of the raters but doesnt make it a worse photo.</p>

<p>I have rated several 6s and one or two 1s I think although this is sometimes due to the catorgory they are put in. For example, if a very good landscape was put in nude (yes I know thats very unlikely) I would rate it low.</p>

<p>If posters dont want to get low scores either delete the 1,2 or 3 option or dont post them. Also lets remember that as far as I understand it, 4 is average. Thats not too bad is it?</p>

<p>UNLESS your camera has 2 red windows. In that case, wind film on until you see 1 in the first window. When you have taken the shot and you wind the film on, wind until you see the number 1 in the second window. Next time wind on until you see 2 in first window,,,,,2 in second window etc etc.</p>

<p>Yes. Megatron 020 83659797</p>

<p>$50 an hour! I would consider flying over from the UK for that.<br>

I am in a similar situation but always avoided those terrible camera club sessions when I went to them years ago. Maybe yours are different but the few I did go to always seemed to be 20 people queing up to get a very quick couple of shots with the poor model being directed to twist turn and contort so quickly he/she hardly had time to breath.<br>

I have found the best approach is simply to ask people. Preferably friends of friends. Tell them they are very welcome to bring the mutual friend with them and indeed, you think coming with their friend, husband, etc would be a good idea.<br>

Also, if you do not intend to do any nudity shots, tell them that straight away (and visa versa). They will want to know.<br>

Can you ask your friend or family if they could ask their friends for you?</p>

<p>David, there are dozens if not hundreds of compact folging medium format 120 cameras. Some are capable of very good results but that is usually dependant on the lens. If I am on the bike and want a pocket size 120 camera with me I often take a Zeiss Nettar 515. It has a Nettar Anastigmat 75mm f4.5 lens that still look great at 16x20 inches. Cost 2 years ago=£15</p>

<p>I used to use a tank like that but could never get even development whatever agitation I used. I also tried tray developing with the same results (except for 11x14 strangely) so I went for a Jobo 2521 rotary system. Agitation is continuous although reduced in time. It uses far less chemicals and produces great results every time.</p>

<p>When mixed ID11 can have a pinkish colour to it but I wouldnt say its dark. Are you sure you got the mixing instructions right? Have you tried using it yet?</p>

<p>I would say that if you pour a few hundred ml into a clear container it shouldnt really have any colour.</p>

<p>Got it and done it. Thank you.</p>

<p>I have put some photos in the critique forum but would like to put them up for rating. How do I do that? I cant see anything about it in my workspace.</p>

Recognize anyone from 1990?<div></div>

<p>Also, you may know this, but you dont have to have a b+w enlarger to print b+w. Both of mine are diffuser colour heads and they print very nicely.</p>

<p>Inga, I am guessing "Jessop" is just the retailers name and to be honest, I hope so. I dont know the 6600 but I do use a LPL 7542 and the quality of the enlarger is very good. As I said, I havent any experience of the 6600 but from its model number I would assume it will take up to 6x6 negs but not 6x7. I may be wrong but its worth checking.</p>

<p>Gene,<br>

What great shots. Thank you.<br>

So come on, who is going to be first to say "I knew a girl who had a Bal..................."?</p>

<p>Michael,</p>

<p>Thank you. That makes sense. I will nervously look tomorrow.</p>

<p>Rashed, can you clarify your question a little? A spot meter or incident meter can both be hand held and some meters will take both spot/reflected readings or incident readings.<br>

Of the two, there isnt really a better one overall. A spot meter will take a reflected reading from usually a fairly small area or several areas. These readings can then be compared to judge the overall contrast of the scene to make decisions about how to expose the shot, possibly to stop the dark/shadow areas being underexposed or/and the light areas being overexposed.<br>

An incident meter measures the light falling on the scene, not being relected off it and therfore takes no account of the subject matter or the tones.<br>

Personaly I almost always use a spot meter which is a reflected light meter and for what I call serious work I would still use a hand held one even if the camera I was using had one built in.<br>

You will see it can seem a little confusing at first (sorry if I have added to that), and it may well be worth putting something like "difference between reflected and incident meters" into google.<br>

Dont be put off if you get pages of information. When you start using one or the other it will be a piece of cake.</p>

<p>I have just posted my first photo to the photo critique forum but didnt see anything about "notify me of responses". Is this done automatically or would I have to go back in and search for my photo to see if any comments have been left?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>