jim_gardner4

Tom and Wonner, good points. The screen is both split image and has a microprism. It is the original acutematt screen that was in the camera when I bought it brand new. The images are randomly front focused, back focused and sometimes focused where I thought. As the 503cw has a gliding mirror I am possibly leaning towards that. Now I need the best Hasselblad repair people in the country (yeah I'm into this deep now). I will also ask that on general MF forum.

Orsetto, very helpful info, thank you. Are these ground glass back for SWS's available? Also, who would you all recommend for Hasselblad service / repair in the UK. I will, at the very least, get the mirror foam / alignment checked.

Do you wear eyeglasses and have you had a recent change in prescriptions? I found this was the cause of my experiencing similar issues to yours with my TLR several years ago.

SCL. Contact lenses. No change in prescription and I even went to opticians, explained the issue to him and asked him to check. He said eyes can never focus in the wrong place. they either focus,,,,,or they don't. I told him about photographic problems and he said it couldn't be my "vision/eyesight/prescription" after giving me a eye and sight test. When I use my TLR or other manual focus cameras, I don't have a problem. So much so that I am using my Mamiya C330 over the Hasselblad now.

I had the same issue some years ago and ended up selling my Hasselblad (got a new one now). The buyer said that the problem was the focussing screen, he just put another screen in place and the problem was solved. Double check your screen.

Robin, what was the problem with the screen? Apart from being loose and moving up and down, I cant see how some negs could be focused close, some spot on, and others away in the distance.

Thank you all for replies so far. I don't have a ground glass back but believe the body was checked with one when it went away. What is most frustrating is that one shot may be bang on focused exactly where I thought, and the very next negative may be sharp at 7 feet when I thought I focused at 10 feet! As you will know, that's quite a lot of difference/adjustment to the focusing ring and much more than could just be not quite correct. Also, as it is so erratic, with some negs spot on, the next focused further away and the next one focused closer, (on the same film) I am assuming it couldn't be incorrectly loaded film.

Any more thoughts or experience would be very greatly appreciated.

I have had my 503CW for approx. 15 years. I use 3 lenses and generally a pme finder. Earlier this year I shot about 4 rolls of film at fairly wide apertures (2.8 - 5.6) and found many on many of the negs the focus point wasn't where I wanted it (thought I had focused). A LOT of testing followed which included photographing marks on a wall from an angle at various distances. I used f2.8-f4 to limit dof and see exactly where the point of focus was. Camera was both on and off a tripod, I tried pme and waist level finder, mirror lock up and not, etc. etc. In a lot of cases the focus point was inches to many feet away from where I focused.

I contacted Hasselblad and they put me in touch with the people who used to do all their repairs. I sent these people the camera, they checked everything, made some adjustments and sent it back. Long story short, I still had the same problem. Camera went back another two times, they said it all checked out fine, I got camera back and had same problem.

I cant think the fault is the lenses as I have three and get the problem with all of them. The A12 back checked out ok and I have even been to the optician to see if I have an eye issue (I don't).

Eventually I rang a friend of mine who is a professional photographer who used to use Hasselblad. He told me he had exactly the same problem some years ago which is why he now uses a different make of camera.

Has anyone had the same issues, and if so, was the cause ever found / rectified?

Kevin, you explained that almost as well as Ansel himself.

Alan, I cannot recommend highly enough, the 3 book series by Ansel adams. The Camera, The Negative, The Print. Years ago I learnt more from those 3 books than every other book I have read.

You should be able to go to My Account and make whatever changes that you like - there is always a bit of a question, if you haven't tried of late, exactly what outcome you will get. I went to mine, made a change and got "saved" next to my choice. Will wait and see result then report back.

Feel free to start a conversation with me if you have concerns.

Sandy, I have tried to change my email address twice since you replied but just get the same constant "saving" message. It seems also that although I "watch" threads and have every possible alert turned on to send me notifications of replies etc. I don't get any. If I change other options, they save with no problem.

It's not a massive deal but to go back to something I was watching, I have to send myself a link by email from the original post, then go back to my email inbox each time and click on the link to get me back to it.

It looks like you have enough on your plate already but it would be handy to get notifications if possible. Thanks for all the hard work.

Thanks Kevin for your answer and the work you put into the chart.

 

I have just been reading another thread about the end of Photo.net. I dont get notifications anymore and cant change my email address.

 

What a shame to lose such a great forum.

 

Best,

 

Jim.

John,

 

That's the one I was trying to change but it just said "saving" and never got to "saved". Is there a way of receiving notifications of post replies etc?For some reason I don't get them anymore.

Whoooaa!! What's happened??

I have used this site for over 10 years and found it (mostly) to be really helpful, worthwhile and informative. I have put some photos in my portfolio, asked loads of questions and hopefully answered some too.

 

I did notice yesterday that I wasn't getting emails after requesting notifications on some posts. This morning I tried to change my email address for a newer one I use which I thought might solve the problem.and came across this thread.

 

Am I to understand that most admins have jumped ship and things like changing email address, notifications etc.no longer work?

 

If so, what can be done by us, the people that just use the site and possibly take it for granted?

 

It would be a huge shame to lose this resource and the entertainment (Effing is in the UK!!) not to mention all the hard work people have -and still are- putting in to it.

 

I dont know how many members there are currently, but as a whole, surely something can be done, or have I missed the point and come to the party too late?:(

 

A sad Jim, sitting in England during lockdown, thinking what a shame it would be to see the end of Photo.net

Kevin,

 

That makes sense, thank you. I had assumed you were using the chart as is, as your example. I have printed your chart and hatched all rows except the one you mentioned (starting with 2.8 under Z1).

 

In this case f22 would fall on V11 with normal development.

 

I think I had taken your original post as referring to the chart Look at the table one last time. Finding that VII reading (f/32) look to the top of the column where f/32 sits. It says N-1. Whereas -on the chart- V11 reads f22, not f32.

 

I understand that your text was an example of where it may fall, not where it actually falls in the chart.

 

I am getting it or have I lost it completely?

 

Many thanks,

 

Jim.

I must be reading it wrong Kevin. Z V11 on table says f22 not f32 and normal development. What am I doing wrong?

Fuji Across, possibly the smoothest but sharpest film I have ever used and Kodak infrared. The Kodak was about £10 a roll but worth every penny. I still use Ilford Delta 100 and Pan F which are both fantastic but somehow I felt confident with the Fuji. Cant put my finger on why exactly, I just grew to love that film.

I've been taking quite a lot of photographs recently (trying to make the best of the unfortunate situation we are all in) and have been using some b+w film up to 14 years "out of date" to see what happens.

 

I have learnt, a) film 14 years past its use by date, NOT kept in the fridge, seems to work perfectly.

b) Print developer less than 24 hours old (mixed) which we are told should be ok, really isn't. Horrible muddy prints and not even worth trying.

 

What age film do most people give up on and not load in the camera?

Orsetto,

Thank you for your reply. I think this camera has had very little use and one thing I did like was how easily the backs were to fit/remove. It won’t be a regular user but as it’s in the collection, I feel I must produce at least one decent photograph from it. The next couple weeks should give me a few hours to try it. If results are ok I may post a couple.

Thanks again,

Jim.

Fantastic! A friend "gave" me a Super 23 a year or so ago, with 2 lenses, roll film back and ground glass. I was having a look at it yesterday with a view to loading some film and trying it so I Googled Mamiya Super 23 and came across this post. I do have a question and hope this thread is still active.

If I use the rear bellows to alter perspective/focus and use the ground glass and lupe to view the scene, lock everything in place then change the ground glass for the roll film back, will that also be in focus? To put it another way, does the film in the 120 back, occupy the same exact plane that the film would in a sheet film holder?

Many thanks for your original post Louis, I definitely have to use this camera now.

Orsetto, I think that's what I was getting at. There are a few on Ebay that look like they are "fired". As it happens I bought one from Ffordes Photographic. They were very helpful on the phone. Ordered Yesterday, arrived today in fantastic condition. Just tried it on the camera and it works a treat.

Thanks Andy, it did. So did Ffordes Photographic who have quite a few in stock (one less now) and where very helpful over the phone.

I have been using a Hasselblad on and off for 10+ years but have never used extension tubes. I rang a dealer who had some for sale this morning but was told he had sold the ones advertised. I had to then resort to EBay.

 

There are a few on there but from the photos, some seem to be in the "Cocked" position I.E. the shutter cocking disk/bar is horizontal, while others are shown with this part at an angle.

 

Does anyone know is this part is free to turn wherever it wants while not attached to body or lens, or does it need to be in a certain position to attach?

 

Thanks.

Exactly what Stan said. Also, when feeding the film on, pinch it very gently so it forms its own curve when going on. After a couple of turns, if its not loading properly, you can wind it back on to the film spool and start again. Hewes tanks take 425ml of solution from memory for 120.

Its been nearly a month now since my original post. Could someone tell me what's happening please.

I didn't want to make this a public post but,,, having been a member for many years I have seen the site change over the years. Doing some banking recently I can see I have been charged twice for this years membership.

 

It took a long time to find a "contact" tab but when I click it I get a mainly dark screen with no option to email.

Could there be an easier way to get in touch or send an email to admins?

Can I have one of the two yearly subscriptions refunded please?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim.

Just found the answer. Shutter release button must be kept pressed until exposure is complete.

I dug my 503cw out today and almost immediately jammed it when I released the shutter without the lens fully engaged. Fortunately I removed the film back and could clearly see the "cocking" screw, gave that a turn and all was well,,,I thought.

After unjamming I wound and fired the camera a few times but noticed that on slower speeds, say 1 second, the rear curtains close if I release the shutter button before the exposure is complete. Now I cant remember if it was always the case that I must keep the shutter release button held in for the full duration of the exposure or if I should be able to release it immediately and expect the curtains to stay open for the full 1 second.

I hope that makes sense and hope you can help. Many thanks,Jim.