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jim_gardner4

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Everything posted by jim_gardner4

  1. In a way I am glad to have found this thread as I thought it may just be me having problems. I have been a member for about 10 years or so and only recently logged on to find the "new" site. Unfortunately my email address and password don't seem to work (I have no idea how I logged on but I think if I ever log out, I will never get back in again) and, like others, I don't really want to reregister and loose my account with its links to old posts etc, not to mention the few photos that are (or where) on my gallery. If there is any chance of sorting this out, I am sure many people would be very grateful.
  2. Many thanks Maris. I am trying to find a 100 x 100mm R72 but no luck yet.
  3. I am about to try Ilford SFX in 120 for the first time but am not sure which filter gives nearest to true IR results. From various places on the web it seems Hoya R72 is the best option but this is generally a screw on filter. I will be using various lenses/bodies so really wanted a 100mm x 100mm filter I could use on everything. Lee filters do a 87c but from what I have learnt, one blocks light above 720nm and the other above about 850nm. Does anyone know if that makes a difference, what the extra filter factor would be, or better still has anyone used either, or both?
  4. Ask a friend to dev your film in their tanks, using their chemicals, while you watch.
  5. If you don't know where it came from probably best not to guess as you could be wrong. In this case it's a description of inversion and twisting at the same time.
  6. Vania, I feel for you. I had the same problem on 35mm years ago and tried everything to sort it which took about 6 months. I used to use Patterson type tanks with the twizzle stick, constant agitation for first 30 secs, then 10 secs every minute. This method had worked well for me for many years then just stopped working and produced exactly what you have. I eventually determined it was the chemicals spinning round faster/slower at some points than others. I now use stainless tanks and reels and while I almost always use medium format now, the odd roll of 35mm goes through the same process which is; No pre soak. Ilford ID 11 1+1 for around 10 minutes. Pour in tank, agitate gently BUT IN A FIGURE 8 MOTION for 10 secs, couple reasonably sharps taps on bench, then 10 secs every minute IN A DEFINATE FIG 8 MOTION. The tank probably gets 4 revolutions in the 10 secs. Pour dev out, pour stop in, rotate once or twice, pour stop out, pour fix in, invert/rotate same as dev for 3-4 mins, pour fix out, wash in tank at same temp as other chemicals for 10 ish mins. Put 4ml of wetting agent in tank, take film off reel and holding one end in each hand, pass length of film through water/wetting agent bath, hang on clip (the type with 2 pins in) until dry. No steaks. For 5x4 I use Jobo drum on the wheel type processor but also rock left right to ensure the chems move all round not just in one direction.
  7. Since my last mercury thermometer broke, I am down to 2 of the blue liquid filled types and 1 with a round dial on the top. Unfortunately they all read slightly differently. The type that clip on with the dial that can be easily seen are great but not if they are not accurate. Can anyone recommend an accurate dial type available in UK please? Also, what are thoughts on digital thermometers?
  8. As long as you’re not wanting to print grade 5, does it matter if they do fade? I always use enlargers with colour heads and have never dialled in x amount of magenta or yellow to produce a grade 0,1,2,,,, print. I start about 0 or maybe 20 magenta (depending on negative) then make a decision to alter contrast based on test print. I often find +\- 10 on the dial makes a fair bit of difference to the print but I have no idea what contrast grade the final print is.
  9. Danac, wow that was a long one and I admit to not reading all posts. I am interested to hear what you finally settled on. Just to add my little bit, I have used a Sekonic L-508 for years, mainly as a spot meter but also for incident and flash. However if I am just out casually I may use a Pentax spot meter (cant remember the model) or even a Weston meter if I have my fathers Leica with me. I think you mentioned money isn't the biggest issue so why not get the best you can that does everything?
  10. Try The Small Battery Company. Type in what you need and they will give you a list of equivalents they sell, and the pro and cons of each. Very reasonably too.
  11. Same. Haven't received emails for weeks.
  12. I have had a lot of help with this, particularly from Alan Marcus who was kind enough to PM me. I think without a densitometer and the knowledge of its usage, I cant do much more than stick with what I am doing.
  13. And that's the problem. Without a Densitometer I cant tell what the Dmax or densities are. Will keep looking on the web though, thank you.
  14. You're not wrong there. I read the instructions online. Phew!
  15. Two sexy sisters!? They may not mind if you took them both out at the same time. Try it and see if you prefer one over the other.
  16. Since posting I have looked in some of my books to see if there is another way of testing. I found in AA "The Negative" that; Value 1 should have a density of 0.10, Value V a density of 0.70 etc. This is clearly a difference of 0.60 He then goes on to say that a spot meter can be used and that each 1/3 stop exposure interval on the meter will correspond to a density increment of 0.10 From that I would have thought 1 stop would then equal a density increase of 0.30. How then is it that he states the value difference between V1 and V5 is a density difference of 0.60, which he also says above in , blue is 2 stops, when we have learnt it is a difference of 4 stops? Confused? I certainly am.
  17. I have decided it is (long past) time I did some tests with a Densitometer. Looking on the web, I see they are from a bit under £1000 up to £6000. Does anyone know of a type / sales outlet that makes something at a more reasonable price point or, is there anyone in the UK that would be prepared to lend/rent one out?
  18. This works on every level. As a nude, a landscape and as both at the same time. Brilliant. Once again, fantastic lighting and the shadows couldn't be better.
  19. My pc is at least 10 years old and I don't have any photo software. If there was a decent stitching tool for under £50 that I could use with a very outdated pc, I would certainly try.
  20. Producing a photo book, for fun not commercially, and posting on here.
  21. At £3700 new, even the used price is going to be too much. I think I will go with AJG's idea.
  22. All my prints are made in the darkroom and this may involve hours or even days of work that I enjoy. Digital photography, or scanning negatives and creating an image on Photoshop -to name just one of the many tools I'm sure are available- is not an option, but occasionally I would like to scan a finished print. I do have a scanner that can copy up to A4 but a lot of my prints are around 11x14". Is there a scanner available that would scan that size without breaking the bank? I know I will be told that depends how big the bank is and what sort of quality I expect, I just wanted to get a feel for what is out there. I have had a look on various sites but am not really sure what I am looking at.
  23. 10986431, any results yet? I have just found this thread and am also keen to see your results. I love using old flashes with bulbs, the look on people faces when the bulb fires is one of astonishment. Even the smaller bulbs put a fair bit of light out so you should get some good results.
  24. Is it not worth trying your local hardware shop for a bolt or have an engineering firm make one for you?
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