bjscharp

I've frequently used the invertable center column option of my Gitzo GT2541L for low level work. But even with only the short center column and the legs fully spread I can get quite low.

 

Of course, if you'll be using the tripod ONLY for low-level work, a low boy (http://www.kirkphoto.com/Mighty-Low-Boy.html) or something similar will be way more practical.

Metal whiteboard. Same as yours, but with more area :-)

I recently noticed I prefer my portraits in landscape orientation, and my landscapes in portrait orientation...

No, never had a problem, I didn't even know the mk. 1 had a temperature fuse.

I've completely disassembled the mk1 on occasion, if you post a picture of where you are now, I might be able to help.

 

Regards,

Bernard

<p><blockquote>You have to wonder about the value to repair it. You can get a series for less than $100--at least used. With shipping both ways and repair!?!</blockquote></p>

 

<p>John A, you have obviously never used the Mark I next to the Mark II. I'd gladly pay the price of a new mk. II to repair my mk. I, should it ever break.</p>

<p><i>Do you think Andre Agassi would sponsor a crappy, inferior product? JR</i></p>

 

<p>Actually, talk like that belongs in the Canon FD forum... :-)</p>

Craig, you were indeed one of the few who responded on topic. I just thought it funny how few people did.

 

As for cost: If you have a 50D, you're obviously not skimping on expenses. Also, a grip for that 50D plus 4 batteries will set you back about the same amount as that solar panel will.

 

I'm not saying solar charging is the best option, but it was what the OP asked for, so I gave the information I knew about (though I missed the bit about porters). But a solar charger has the advantage of having the option to charge. Extra batteries will still run flat, it'll just take more time. A well placed solar panel will charge a battery, even if it might take a while, so if all your batteries are empty, you only need to wait.

 

Which solution would work better? Don't know. This is exactly the reason why I shoot slides when I go hiking. But the OP didn't ask that :-)

 

Regards,

Bernard

Dial the screen (that's not the viewfinder) down to a normal brightness. (the blackest black in the screen should be only just distinguisable from the second-blackest, same for the whitest white)

 

Calibrate the screen of your computer for gamma and colour.

 

Try again.

Indeed. I preferred the interface of the Minolta software. Vuescan does give much better pictures though, especially for B&W, worth learning the interface for.

Have used it occassionally, to warm up a shot a bit on Velvia (using a cut up 1/4 CTO gel filter).

 

Biggest problem is getting the damn filters in without getting fingerprints all over them. These holders are more useful on lenses that can't have normal filters (14mm, 15mm FE).

<p>Funny, this guy asks for a solar charger, and all he gets are recommendations for batterypacks (extra weight == last thing you want when hiking), using AA's (weigh more, and when you can buy those, you can also find a wall-socket to charge) and other cameras (?!)...</p>

 

<p>Jules, check out <a href="http://bythom.com/solar.htm">this article</a> by outdoor photographer Thom Hogan.</p>

 

<p>So yes, it IS possible, and it IS effective...</p>

I have a Minolta scanner (Scan Elite II, I believe), and the Minolta software doesn't work under Windows 7 64 bit.

 

Luckily I use Vuescan, which works fine, and which I heartily recommend.

If your PC is less than 5 years old, you most probably HAVE a 64 bit machine. You just need to install a 64bit version of Windows.

<p>This has been posted before, but with <a href="http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/">this link</a>.</p>

 

<p>Over there, the reproductions are MUCH better (much less coloured fringing).</p>

 

<p>Compare <a href="http://denverpost.slideshowpro.com/albums/001/496/album-71639/cache/russia001.sJPG_920_590_0_95_1_50_50.sJPG?1256142466">this one</a> to <a href="http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/empire/images/p87-6040.jpg">this one</a> for example.</p>

 

<p>But yes, they're beautiful pictures.</p>

If you get dust on your film, changing fix times won't help. Cleaning your drying room might. I always hang my film to dry in the shower, and let the hot water run for a few minutes before hanging the film out so the humidity is high, which keeps dust away.

Alwin, I get my Fuji films (including Neopan 400) through http://www.fujilab.co.uk/

 

They're a lot cheaper than most stores in the Netherlands, and stock pretty much everything (though Neopan Acros in 4x5 recently disappeared).

Any Leica M with a 35mm or 50mm (depending on your preference)

I have only one zoom I regulary use, and that's my 17-40mm f4. I'd replace it with a prime if Canon made something small and good in the 17 to 21mm range (the 14mm is out of my budget, heavier than the zoom, and not good with filters, while the 20mm is far inferior to the 17-40 according to most people and pictures I've seen.

 

I'm considering the new Voigtlander 20mm pancake, or the Zeiss 18mm (though the latter is also a bit expensive)

 

Why primes? Depends on the focal length, but either size/weight or speed. Fixed-aperture zooms are always big and heavy, and variable-aperture zooms are a pain if you shoot in manual mode....

I'm 28, but definitely not in Toronto...

<p>Just a quick bit of positive news.</p>

 

<p>A few weeks ago, the screw keeping the frameline preview lever of my M3 in place unscrewed itself without my

permission. I managed to recover the screw itself, but without the screw to watch over it, the lever went on to

unknown territory.</p>

 

<p>Since I only use a 50mm Summicron, this wasn't really a problem, but it did look kind of sad, so I emailed <a

href="http://us.leica-camera.com/service/service_and_repair/headquarters_germany/photography/index.html">Leica's

spare parts service</a> in Germany. They emailed me back after a few days requesting my postal address so they

could send me a replacement lever, which arrived shortly after I supplied them with said address.</p>

 

<p>I don't think there are many brands where you get free replacement parts for a 45 year old second hand camera!</

p>

Isn't it great to live in a time where a man can shoot a picture in a place like that in the morning and be online the SAME AFTERNOON to talk about it?

 

Just sayin'.... ;-)

The 28mm 1.8 is bigger and slower than the 30mm 1.4, so I'd forget about that one.

 

I'd get the Sigma 30mm, use it for a while and then get either the Tokina if you want to be able to go wider, or the Canon 50 1.8 if you want to go longer. (or both, it's not as if the Canon is expensive).

Better to have limited DOF in a sharp picture, than have lots of DOF with everything blurry...

 

Also remember that a fast lens, even if stopped down, will still autofocus at maximum aperture, and in bad light, the difference between 1.4 and 2.8 can be a lot.

<p>I have no experience with the SOOKY either, but from that picture, my first try would be to unscrew the inner collar.</p>

 

<p>Get a wide piece of metal and cut it to shape so it fits into the two indents in the inner ring (see attached picture), or even better, get a <a href="https://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByCategory.aspx?CategoryCode=SPN">spanner wrench</a> in the right size.</p>

 

<p>But I'm just guessing based on one picture, I only have the SOOKY-M, and the manual isn't much help either, so if someone else has better suggestion, listen to them first.</p><div></div>