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bjscharp

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Posts posted by bjscharp

    24/1.4 II @ PZ

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <blockquote><p>I wonder why it is more difficult to design a fast aperture prime than a slower (but still fast) zoom. Look at the results of the 70-200/2.8 IS II.</p></blockquote>

     

    <p>That's not a very fair comparison. A telephoto is much easier to design than a wide angle, by virtue of the fact that the light rays have to be bend much more for the wire-angle. </p>

     

    <p>Compare the 70-200 to the 135L and I have no doubt the 135 will win.</p>

     

    <p>Similarily, compare the 24L to the 16-35L, and suddenly the corner resolution of the 24 might seem much more favourable. (especially at similar apertures, the 24 is pretty damn good by f2.8)</p>

     

    <p>If you want perfect corners, you might consider the 24 TS-E...</p>

    Is this reasonable or am I crazy?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    Sounds like a great kit you're planning. I'd say go ahead, there's no shame in preferring primes (quite the opposite).

     

    I can also heartily underwrite the advice to look at a good flash before looking for a new body, there's still a lot of life left in your XTi, and a good flash will really make a difference.

    your 'regret' lens

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    If I have to pick one, it'd be my 18-55 kit-zoom. Never used that lens once I got my Sigma 30mm.

     

    All my other lenses were pretty well researched and considered, so I'm satisfied. Only lens I might replace if I could is my 17-40L, which would be replaced by a reasonable prime in the 17-21 range, which Canon doesn't make. (17mm TS-E is out of my league, and does stuff I don't need, and I've never seen a positive review of the 20mm 2.8 USM). Mind you, I'd replace it because I prefer primes, not because it's not good enough, it's a perfect lens for what I do.

    Red Ring fell of L lens and is lost

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>If you replace the red ring with a green one, your lens will have DO optics and become smaller and lighter!</p>

    <br/><br/>

    <blockquote><p>Oh, and I have never actually met a Leica user, most I see just wear them like jewelry--a necklace</p></blockquote>

    <p>That's why I keep my M3 on a beltclip...</p>

    Non-destructive removal of infinity lock

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    I have a question, maybe someone here has experience with it.

     

    I have and shoot with a collapsible 50mm summicron (M-mount), it's complete, meaning it still has the (vestigal)

    infinity-lock. I can imagine this being useful on a thread-mount lens, but on the bayonet it doesn't do a lot, except

    making near-infinity focussing harder.

     

    Now, I've seen lenses like this (and similar lenses like the 21mm f4 SA) on the `bay where the button has been

    removed from the focus tab, and I was wondering if anyone has experience with doing this, and if it is a reversible

    process (as long as I don't lose the button itself).

     

    If anyone has experience with this, I'd welcome any comments.

     

    Regards,

    Bernard

    Review of Camera straps Blackrapid RS4, Double, and Cotton Carrier

    in Accessories

    Posted

    <blockquote><p>And all three are a pain when switching to tripod mounts.</p></blockquote>

     

    <p>I found a nice solution to that. I got a small (1") screw-type QR clamp from <a href="http://www.kirkphoto.com/1_in_Quick_Release_Clamp.html">Kirk</a>, mounted the BlackRapid eyelet to that, and I mount that to the L-plate on my camera. If I want to use a tripod, or just put the camera away for a moment, I can unscrew the clamp and simply release the camera from the strap. Also makes switching cameras a breeze.</p>

    Broken manuel mode

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    Ok, step by step:

     

    <ul>

    <li>Your camera is in `M' mode</li>

    <li>You have set it to: ISO 200, f5, 1/500s</li>

    <li>It underexposes by roughly two stops.</li>

    <li>Can you use the upper dial to set the shutter speed to 1/125s (or slower)?</li>

    <li>If so, is the picture still underexposed (by the same amount)?</li>

    <li>Can you use the rear dial to set the aperture to f2.5 (or wider)?</li>

    <li>If so, is the picture still underexposed (by the same amount)?</li>

    </ul>

     

    Also: -2 is the maximum the camera can display. Might be the exposure was (much) more than two stops under. What exposure were the Av/Tv shots made at?

    EF 50mm f/1.4 USM update?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <blockquote><p>10mm 2.8 EF-S</p></blockquote>

     

    <p>Oh, if only that were true... I could even live with an F4 lens. Just make it compact, like the Pentax 15mm.</p>

     

    <p>As for the OP: I'm still waiting for that 50mm f1.4 USM <b>IS</b> anouncement.</p>

    Macro - light & getting closer. What to do?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    Canon specifically mentions that IS is least effective at close focus distances, so ditching the ring light in favour of IS will not give the results you hope for. Not to mention that during macro shots, you (or your camera) often blocks a lot of light, which IS can't `put back'.

     

    As for extension tubes, I've often heard tell that at least one of the Canon tubes is (aside from the finish and the name) exactly the same as the same-size Kenko tube, giving the suspicion they're actually from the same factory. As you say yourself, there are no optics, so you're really only paying for the name. Get the Kenko set, it'll give you much more flexibility, for less money.

    macro with canon

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    If with `on camera flash' you mean the camera's pop-up flash, you might look into a better one. When shooting macro, you'll often get into the situation where your lens casts a shadow on your subject. A bigger flash (further from the lens-axis) will help here. Even better would be a special macro flash, or a normal flash on an off-camera cord.

    Nikon Coolscan IV still worthy?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I use a Minolta Dimage Elite II, which is the Minolta-equivalent of the Coolscan IV (my father has a Coolscan V, by the way, which is also great), and I get great B&W scans out of it.

     

    One tip: Invest in Vuescan, the auto-contrast/exposure of that software will save you a LOT of time compared to the supplied software.

     

    For info, I use it with Neopan 400, which I develop myself. Dust and scratches are no problem, provided you handle the negs with care, and blow them clean with a bulb blower before inserting them in the scanner.

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