bjscharp
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Posts posted by bjscharp
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FD lenses won't fit on EOS cameras without losing infinity focus. Plenty of others will though, like Olympus OM, Pentax K or older Nikon F lenses.
But personally I wouldn't worry about the aperture, and worry more about the battery. Look into a mains adapter for the camera you'll be using.
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If I've considered buying a lens, but decided against it, I might share my motivations for doing so.
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<p>I have the <a href="http://www.kirkphoto.com/Camera_Plate_for_M2.html">Kirk plate</a> on my M3 (which is the only camera Kirk doesn't list, for some reason). Works fine, but adds to the bulk/weight of the camera. I replaced the standard hex-screw with a <a href="http://www.dagcamera.com/tscrew.JPG.htm">thumb-screw</a> from DAG, so I can easily remove/add it when I plan on using a tripod. (If I'm carrying a tripod, the plate goes on, otherwise it stays at home with the tripod)</p>
<p>I've asked RRS if they were planning to make something like their <a href="http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=BM9-B&type=0&eq=&desc=BM9-B%3a-Replacement-base-for-Leica-M9&key=it">BM9 bottom plate</a> for film Leicas, but they aren't, unfortunately.</p>
<p>Biggest problem I have with small plates like the Markins model, is that they make it hard to put the camera down. The bigger Kirk plate provides enough area, but a smaller plate forces you to put the camera on its side, or have it balance on a proverbial coin.</p>
<p>Rail-type plates like the Kirk also allow you to center the camera over the ballhead, always a problem with film Leicas.</p>
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The EOS 30 family (EOS 30/33/30n/33n, Elan 7/7e/7n/7ne) has both MLU (custom function 5) and DOF preview (button below lens mount)
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I'm with Jean-Yves on the M3 + beer option.
But if you really have to choose, I'd pick the M9.
The Rolex will only tell you what time it is right now, the M9 tell you of all the good times and bad times you've had for years to come...
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It's moisture proof in the same way most backpacks are: I wouldn't dunk it into the water, but rain (or sweat) aren't a problem. (And sweat isn't really a problem anyway, it isn't pulled tight to your body)
I got mine from an outdoor store here in the Netherlands, best you can do though is send an email to the company, (see Warranty & Ordering on their website), they can tell you if any store in your vincinity carries them, or you can probably order straight from them.
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<p>What you're looking for is a normal (non-photography) backpack/daypack, with a <a href="http://chestpack.nl/en-index.php">Chestpack</a> on the front.</p>
<p>It fits a camera with even a medium-sized lens perfectly (My EOS 30 with 17-40mm fitted fine, which is bigger than an F6 with a 50mm), is reachable without taking off the pack, and if the backpack you're wearing is well-adjusted, you hardly know it's there.</p>
<p>I've used mine both with normal backpacks, when I only carried one lens, and with photography backpacks, for when I carried more, but wanted the camera quickly accessible.</p>
<p>Highly recommended.</p>
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Just remove the center screw from the dials, they come off easily, and can be cleaned, etc.
You might not even have to remove the screw completely, it's easy to overtighten the screw and disable independent movement of the dials.
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I've looked all over my M3s but for the life of me I can't figure out where there's supposed to be an LCD...
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Because of the big (82mm) filter size, normal thickness filters don't cause visible vignetting on the 16-35. CPL filters are thicker though, so they might (though I don't speak from experience, best way is to test it: stack two filters, set lens wide-open at 16mm and shoot a blank wall with and without filters at the same exposure settings)
As for the second question: CPL filters are two layers of glass with polarizing film sandwiched in between. Under very extreme conditions, with normal filters, moisture might get between the two layers, and render the filter useless.
B+W Kaeseman filters are made with special cement between the layers to prevent this from happening.
Note though that I got that from the marketing speak from B+W. I also have normal filters that I've used in the rain on occasion, and I've never had problems. But if you want to make sure...
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How do you prevent it from doing a split once you put a heavy camera on top?
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UV filter: B+W 82mm MRC UV (010).
CPL: If you plan to use it in bad weather, get the Kaesemann version, otherwise go for the `normal' MRC version.
If you plan to use the lens on film/fullframe at 16mm, a `slim' version might be advisable for the CPL, but I wouldn't bother with the UV.
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To add: For most Canon DSLRs you'll need the adapter S (small metal one), which usually comes with the angle finder B. I've rarely if never seen one for sale seperately however, so if yours is bust, might be a new angle finder is cheaper than a new adapter.
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Yup, this site needs a spam button.
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Thanks Brian, Domke does <a href="http://www.tiffen.com/results.html?search_type_no=434&tablename=domke">indeed have them</a>! Now I just have to check which one has the right size.
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Hi,
I'm looking for seperate padding, as used in most camera bags, but without the camera bag around it.
I have a small bag I want to use to transport lenses, and want to add inserts to it, but without taking up too much space (so stuffing an
entire other bag in there is not an option).
Does anyone has any suggestions?
Regards,
Bernard
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<p>I use the 135L on my 400D, and it's a delightful match. I mainly use it for sports photography (occasionally also with the 1.4 extender), at which it excels. </p>
<p>It can be used for portraits/headshots, but you need some distance, as it is a bit on the long side when used on APS-C cameras.</p>
<p>@Bueh B: Your `rather slow AF' comment may apply to the 50L or 85L, but certainly NOT to the 135L, it's lightning fast.</p>
<p align="center"><a href="http://www.tripodplaces.com/wp-content/gallery/sports/20090606-124024-01.jpg"><img src="http://www.tripodplaces.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/2__300x200_20090606-124024-01.jpg" /></a><br />Canon 400D with 135L f2.0 @ f2.8</p>
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The lever could be retrofitted later on if the owner so wished, that might be the case here. I don't know about the screws.
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I exchanged the center column on my Gitzo with the short one, as I more often need to get lower than higher. A big advantage of having a center column vs not having one is that (on Gitzos at least) they can be reversed for extremely low-level work.
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<a href="http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/">Mike Johnston</a> recently had a <a href="http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2010/08/shooting-to-a-theme.html">piece on this</a>.
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Ken, you forgot the 15fps burst rate and 1080p movie mode.
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On the 400D, neither of the 50mm's is a `normal' lens. On the APS-C sensor, they are short telephoto lenses. Great for portraiture, but if you want a real normal, your options are the Sigma 30mm, or either the Canon 35mm f2.0 or 28mm f1.8
So from the options you gave, and considering your request for a normal lens, I'd recommend the Sigma (which I have, and really enjoy).
Of course, the 50mm 1.8 is so darn cheap you could always get that too, and it's a very good lens for the money. If you decide you like the 50mm focal length, you can always upgrade to the f1.4 model later.
I hope this helps.
Bernard
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<p>I have an RS-4 and love it, and last weekend shot a wedding using two bodies + flashes on an RS-DS (the two-strap harness), and it was brilliant.</p>
<p>I really recommend these things.</p>
<p>BTW, David Storm, check out <a href="http://www.photo.net/filters-bags-tripods-accessories-forum/00WITh">this thread</a> for a simple trick to combine an L-plate and an R-strap.</p>
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<p><a href="http://www.sunpak.jp/english/products/rd2000/index.html">Sunpak RD200</a>. Even has E-TTL and bounce. Foot folds into the flash, so in your pocket it's smaller than a packet of cigarettes.</p>
<p>I use it occasionally on an EOS 30.</p>
A challenge for 8x10 film users
in Casual Photo Conversations
Posted