bjscharp

<p>The original post makes me think of this paragraph from one of Mike Johnston's (the person who coined the term, afaik) <a href="http://www.photo.net/columns/mjohnston/column49/index.html">columns on the subject</a>:</p>

<blockquote><p>One of the curious aspects of the phenomenon for me was that some people then, and some even now, respond to the idea scornfully or even angrily. Is this some sort of insistence on conformity, as if you are supposed to look at certain parts of pictures and not others?</p></blockquote>

 

<p>Seems the OP is one of those people :-)</p>

 

<p>PS: I fully agree with Matt's post.</p>

And remember: on an M3 you don't need expensive circular polarizers. A cheaper linear one will do (and be more effective) since there is no autofocus or TTL metering to screw up.

B+W MRC filters. Easiest-to-clean filters I know.

 

I seldom use protective filters, but in when shooting in the rain, these are worth their weight in film to me.

My most recent bottle of `Rodinal' from Robert Vonk was R09 One Shot too. Looks the same to me.

<a href="http://www.reallifecomics.com/comics/2010/20100706_2485.png">What every P&S user should know</a>.

This looks to me to be a competitor to Nikon's 14-24mm (talking about small zoom ranges anyone? That lens seems pretty popular with the same 1.7x zoom rating), and not to any of Canon's wide offerings.

That's an MC meter, not an MR. Look at the big selenium window on the front.

 

And it's definitely an M2. Don't know about the lens, but judging from the depth (and the shown pictures), I'd expect a 35mm, not a 50.

That's a great combo. I'll have to get me some Xtol, I've been looking at a higher-speed developer to use next to Rodinal (for which I shoot at 320)

 

Roughly how much agitation would expect to work best for hand processing, or would stand processing work best?

Always carry my 5cm 'cron collapsible. Sometimes a wider or longer lens goes along if I think it might come in handy.

@peter carter: Is that Neopan 400 shot at 3200? I might have to switch developers...

Gitzo nowadays has an `Ocean' line, of water-tight tripods.

 

But I've used my Mountaineer in streams and creeks, and never had any problems. With salt-water, you might have to clean it thoroughly, but ask yourself, what exactly can get damaged? Carbon fiber doesn't rust, neither does plastic. And if you're so far in the water that the head of the tripod is getting wet, you should probably be using a Nikonos anyway.

<p><blockquote>"Nikon's caps work better, so I use them."

 

Simple as that.</blockquote></p>

 

<p>Seconded. I have Nikon caps on all my lenses. They're simply the easiest caps to use if you like leaving the hood on.</p>

My vertical grip has an on-off switch (which turns off the buttons on the grip to prevent you from accidentally hitting them with the palm of my hand).

 

If yours does to, check if it isn't on `off'

 

But if the camera doesn't even turn on, there's probably something wrong with the connection to the battery-compartment on the grip.

<p>See <a href="http://www.photo.net/filters-bags-tripods-accessories-forum/00WITh">this thread</a> for a simple way of combining an R-strap with an L-plate/regular tripod use.</p>

 

<p>And I can really recommend the R-strap for long days with heavy gear.</p><div></div>

<blockquote><p>CF cards are larger and have pins that (very) occasionally get damaged.</p></blockquote>

 

<p>CF cards don't have pins. CF card SLOTS have pins. CF cards are actually more robust, being too thick to break by being sat on while in a pants pocket.</p>

 

<p>Biggest difference is that the interface on a CF card is the same as the one on a harddisk, allowing for higher theoretical throughput, provided that the flash chips inside can keep up (which is the limiting factor in most cards)</p>

 

<p>This is only an issue if your camera supports this, and if you have a reader that can take advantage of it. If you have an older camera, and download pictures using the camera, you won't notice the difference.</p>

I suspect the 'viewfinder piece' are indeed the close-focus goggles for the DR Summicron. You can slide them on the lens when it is set to its closest focus (and after that you can focus even closer).

 

The M3 is a very good camera. After this time, if you want to use it as a serious camera, it might be useful to have a good technician give it a CLA (clean-lube-adjust), and after that, it'll be good for another 50 years.

 

BTW, the meter that's on the camera in the picture is probably no longer functional. It uses a selenium cell, and those have a limited lifespan. If you want a meter with the camera, a Voigtlander VC II meter is a good match for the camera, or look around for a second hand Leicameter MR.

I think BP would probably make view cameras. With lots of light leaks in the bellows. (Yeah, too easy, I know).

 

IBM should aquire Hasselblad. Big, and reliable, works as a system, not with anything else.

 

:-)

I was mostly referring to Apple's rather fashist grip over their `app store', and all the things you can't do with Iphones (come-on, no wireless business-card transfer? My Palm III could do that 10 years ago!)

 

As for workstations, I'm not defending DLL's, but do you even KNOW where mac-OS stores its programs and system files? You want openness and control, you go open source. If you care less, you get a Mac or a PC. The choice between the latter two is just preference, both get the job done.

That, of course, should speak for itself...

<blockquote><p>You do it our way</p></blockquote>

 

<p>Isn't that the Apple users agreement?</p>

And get a price-quote from Canon for possible repair costs...

<blockquote><p>Oh, and I would shoot RAW so that you can hand ANY and all WB issues later...</p></blockquote>

 

<p>Only if you remembered to gel your flashes...</p>

I'm not a professional wedding photog, and have only shot one wedding so far (second coming up), but it was july and the temperatures were pretty nasty that day. I handled it by not paying attention to it, mind my shooting and being completely worn out the next day. :-)

 

Certainly upped my respect for those who do it for a living.

 

My suit may have needed a cleaning, but the pictures were great, which is all that matters in the end...

Maybe the M9 is so good that all Leica users have finally stopped hanging around on forums discussing gear, and are actually out there shooting?

 

 

Nah, that'll never happen...

The LowePro Rover series has space in the bottom for your camera & lots of lenses, and space in the top for that pesky other stuff you might need.

 

Personally I use a dryzone rover (the completely water-tight version), and it's great for long hikes with lots of gear.

 

If you carry less, a LowePro Primus AW is the same idea, but smaller, and the camera can be taken out without removing the backpack from your back.