bjscharp

I just opened up the front of the shutter (very easy), and the problem was very easy to find: The lock mechanism for the bulb setting was over-tightened. I lubricated it slightly and adjusted the tightening a bit, and now it's working perfectly.

 

Also took the opportunity to clean the mirror and glass, and I can see things a lot clearer now!

 

@Tom Cheshire: Any suggestions where I could find such an adapter?

Thanks for the reply.

 

1. I'll remember to do it that way then.

 

2. Yes, I'm sure it's supposed to be B, but even when I keep the shutter button pressed, it closes immediately, on what sounds like the slowest speed setting (1/25).

 

3. Thanks for the tip. I'll have a look.

 

Regards,

Bernard

<p>I've long wanted to give both medium format and TLR cameras a try, and so I have just picked up an old Yashica-A in good condition.

The ground-glass and mirror can use a cleaning, but it seems to be in good working order.</p>

 

<p>I have some questions though, and hopefully someone here can help me:</p>

 

<ul>

<li>The manual states: <i>"It is advisable to set the shutter speed before you cock the shutter at all times."</i>. Does advisable mean "it's ok to do, but rather not", or will I damage something if I do it? (The camera uses a Copal shutter with B, 25, 50, 100 and 300 speeds).</li>

 

<li>On my model, the B setting isn't working (it doesn't stay open). Is this a known/easy to fix problem with Copal shutters of this kind, or

will it need a full servicing?</li>

 

<li>The camera takes push-on 32mm filters. Does anyone know of places where I can get these new (or even better: A push-on to thread

converter), or will I have to search second hand?</li>

</ul>

 

<p>Thanks in advance for any suggestions!</p>

 

<p>Regards,<br />

Bernard</p>

Biggest advantages (in my subjective opinion) of full-frame DSLRs over crop DSLRs: Bigger viewfinder and more choice in wide-angle lenses.

 

Advantages of crop DSLRs over FF DSLRs: Potentially smaller body and lenses, cheaper telephoto lenses (my 135mm/f2 is a lot cheaper than a 200mm/f2 would be, for example).

 

I prefer to shoot around f5.6, so the whole less DOF `advantage' is a discussion I'm not getting into.

And Fomadon Excel is available in 1L packages, instead of the large 5L packages of XTOL, also a plus in my book.

And as you can see from the colours, it's an L-strap now ;-)

Here's a picture of the cord on the grip, with strap attached.<div></div>

<p>I pretty much knotted it the same why I tie a rope to my climbing harness, so with a <a href="http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/F8Knots.htm">figure-eight follow-through</a>. I would literaly trust my life to that knot :-) (I don't add the extra stopper knot, though, it's just for the really paranoid)</p>

 

<p>if you make the loop big enough, the hook of the Rapidstrap is completely free from the grip, and doesn't interfere with your hands on the camera. On mine, when the camera is hanging from it, the loop is somewhere between 2 and 3 inches long, So I'd guess the cord I used was about 7" long.</p>

 

<p>I'll see if I can take a picture later today.</p>

On most battery grips there is an extra eyelet for use with a wriststrap. On mine, I have looped a small piece of para-cord through that, to which I clip my Blackrapid strap. Works perfectly, and the camera falls nicely in hand both in portrait and landscape grips.

If it has a chrome knob, it's actually an IXMOO, not a FILCA. FILCAs have a black knob.

 

IXMOO was the later version, compatible with M cameras.

<p>You want brass? Here you go:</p>

 

<img src="http://itsacon.net/pictures/misc/fora/dpz/m3-2.JPG" />

Thank you for your reply,

 

I tend to break my fingertips when I have to use fliplocks, or the damn things get caught in every strap my bag has. Horses for courses, each his own, and all the other cliches clearly apply here! :-)

Like I said, <em>less useful</em>. With a non-apo lens, you might get a bit of sharpness loss, but the color shift you might see with color photographs won't be visible (obviously). And if you're using colored filters, all bets are off.

<blockquote>I don't shoot in the cold or with gloves. I have used Gitzo's and hate them and all other tripods with twist lock legs.</blockquote>

 

<p>I dare suggest those two statements are related...</p>

 

<p>Might I ask what you find so horrible about twist locks?</p>

I'm with Edward in that people who complain about Gitzo's G-locks haven't used them enough. I own two Gitzos, and compared to every other tripod I've tried or used, they always amaze me with how pleasurable and quick they are to set up and break down, regardless of weather, temperature, gloves and other such things.

And remember, apochromatic lenses are a lot less useful if you only shoot B&W :-)

If it doesn't say MRC, it's a normal single-coated filter.

Normal Heliopan filters are single-coated as well. Heliopan SH-PMC filters are multicoated.

 

Quality-wise, I've always understood equivalent Heliopan and B+W filters to be equal, but I haven't used any Heliopan filters (I have some in the mail though).

Like Peter E, I wouldn't recommend the BH-25 with a panning-clamp. Especially as the PCL-1 is big and heavy, and actually weighs nearly twice as much as the BH-25.

 

If you want top-panning, go for a bigger ballhead. Aside from that, the BH-25 is a great match for Gitzo traveller tripods.

 

A possible solution if you only occasionally need top-panning would be to get the PCL-1 with the PCL-DVTL adapter. That way you can get the BH-25 with a normal clamp, and slide in the PCL-1 only if you really need it (and preferably after you've levelled the ballhead).

I've used a manual focus 21mm f4 for freezing action shots. It all depends on the light, not on the lens.

 

That said, I think that of the three 50mm lenses currently available from Canon, the f1.4 will actually be the best for sports action, as both the f1.2 and the f1.8 have slower AF motors.

Seeing how the only parts not matching a newer generation M3 are the top plate and the rewind-release lever (it's longer on earlier models), looks like this model was repaired by Leica and for some reason fitted with an older top plate and rewind-release.

 

Every other `identifier matches a later model: length of the wind lever, two dots in rewind button, guard around lens-release, strap lugs, retainer around advance lever, shutter speeds.

 

Also, compare the amount of wear on the strap lugs to that on the top and bottom plate. I think the bottom plate is new too.

 

Looks recent, too, maybe Leica is running out of the newer top plates for repair parts?

<p>In my experience with OM-lenses on Canon EOS bodies, using Aperture Priority (Av) works fine, at least with an adapter that has a focus-confirm chip.</p>

 

<p>Just make sure to open the lens fully while focusing, and closing it to the taking aperture before pressing the shutter.</p>

 

<p>The image below was taken with an OM 50mm f1.8 on a macro converter, adapted to an EOS 30 with Velvia 100:</p>

 

<a href="http://www.tripodplaces.com/wp-content/gallery/flowers/2009-005-0016.jpg"><img src="http://www.tripodplaces.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/3__300x200_2009-005-0016.jpg" /></a>

He didn't, that's why there aren't any pictures in this thread :-)

I have the BR strap, and when I'm full-on shooting (camera in my hand 90% of the time), I often use it the way you describe: Camera on strap, extra lens in a small hip-bag. Works great.

 

All in all, I heartily recommend the Rapidstrap over normal shoulder straps, much more comfortable.

What I think Steve McSteve is referring to as aspect ratio is actually perspective, and he is correct that taking a step forwards of backwards changes that. So if he wants a 30mm on a Leica or Leica-like camera, he'll indeed be limited to either:

 

- Finding a 30mm for an M9

- Using a 24mm on an M8 (31mm-e)

- Using a 21mm on an R-D1 or Ricoh A12 module (31mm-e)

 

Of course, finding a 30mm for a larger-than 35mm sensor or film and adapting it would of course work as well. So if he could adapt that S-mount lens to M-mount, he'd have a 30mm. I think the suggestion of adapting the Pentax 31mm would be a bit more practical though. Pentax-K to Leica-M adapters are easily available, and the 31mm has a proper aperture ring. Only drawback is having to scale-focus.

 

Another option would be a Tri-Elmar. I believe Erwin Puts said that this lens can be used in between lens settings, so theoretically it should be possible to find the right setting for 30 mm, and lock the zoom ring in that spot.

Mine are both in the 10xxxxx range, so no luck.