martin_dake

<blockquote> <p>The fixer was the primary contribution of Louis Daguerre in 1839.</p> </blockquote> <p>The fixer that we know today as hypo was the primary contribution of Herschel who then shared his discovery with Daguerre, prior to that Daguerre used hot salt water solution.</p>

<p>I have a PRO-100 also.<br> It is my understanding the cartridges that come with the printer are full capacity.<br> One of the reasons the first set of cartridges does not last long is because they fill and prime the printer on first use.</p>

<p>Basically you will need...</p> <p>1. Something to connect the lights to the camera; either a sync cable or wireless trigger setup. I am not sure if the D5300 has a PC Outlet for a flash sync cable but there is probably an adapter to put one on the hot shoe. Sync cable is cheapest and easiest but the cable get in the way. Wireless triggers can be expensive and not so simple to set up.<br> 2. Put the camera in manual exposure mode with shutter speed at a suitable flash synch speed to the camera model.<br> 3. Some way of measuring the light output at various settings in order to determine the aperture to use. A light meter that can measure flash is best for this but you could just use the Histogram on the camera and adjust the lights and/or aperture to get the exposure correct.<br> 4. Assuming you have light stands and umbrellas, softboxes or reflectors you will need to determine where to place your lights for the effect you want; there are lots of tutorials to help you with light positioning etc.</p> <p>That is just a high level overview with the basics to get you started.</p> <p>I don't use studio lights much but when I do I enjoy doing some still life with them and have gotten some pretty good results with just one light connected via a sync cable and a reflector <br> good luck</p>

<p>Even though you did not get any software with your used D60 you can still get what came with the camera originally from the Nikon website.<br> I think your camera would have come with ViewNX-i which allows some basic editing capabilities.</p> <p>http://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/index.html</p>

<p>You might want to try this, I read it somewhere recently and made a note of it as I am new to digital printing and thought it made sense.</p> <p>If the image file is black and white to begin with then when you print make sure you uncheck the box that says "Black and White".<br> The checkbox is in the printer settings and it seems counter-intuitive but having this checked will tell the printer that the image is color but have the printer convert it to Black and White.<br> The issue is if the image is already Black and White the printer will be confused and use color inks to create some of the blacks.<br> If the image is color originally and you want to print it in Black and WHite then use your photo editing software to convert it to Black and White before printing and then make sure the checkbox mentioned above is not checked.</p>

For about $12 you can get an adapter for CF to SD cards, my wife has one in her D200 and uses 16gb SD cards.

<p>Are you sure you aligned the start mark on the backing paper with the arrow on the film holder?<br> If not frame 1 would start from the wrong position even though the film counter starts at S.</p>

<p>Ilford make Multigrade IV RC in 3.5 inch sheet and roll but I have only ever seen it for sale in the UK.<br> Maybe an Ilford dealer where you live could order some for you.</p> <p> </p>

There is a 165 mm Leaf Shutter lens too, I have one and it synchs to 500th second.

If you have a tablet like an iPad you can find a light table app for it and use it to view your negs.

<p>I have a 2.8C also and the only thing I don't like about it is those annoying locks on the dials.<br> Sounds like you have other issues then, so good luck and I hope you get it sorted.<br> These are great cameras and a joy to use when working correctly.</p>

<p>You said the shutter speed dial gets stiff.<br> Do you have a manual for the camera?</p> <p>One thing to remember on the 2.8C is the shutter speed and apertures dials have to pushed in while they are turned; you may already know this but thought I would mention it just in case.</p>

<p>Check <a href="/medium-format-photography-forum/keh.com">keh.com</a> for their selling prices as a guide.<br> Keep in mind what keh sell for and what you could sell for may not be the same as they offer returns no questions asked and also guarantee the equipment they sell.</p>

<p>I am pretty sure you will need a Bay II.<br> There can be confusion on the lens caps depending on the lens type and the serial number.<br> Do a Google search on lens cap for Rolleiflex 3.5E and you will see much advice specific to the lens or serial number of your camera.<br> The original Rollei hinged lens caps can be quite expensive but there may be some after-market for less.</p>

<p>And, to add...</p> <p>I think the 3.5C confusion comes from the 3.5C being called the 3.5E in North America and 3.5C in Europe.</p>

<p>Got to love Rolleiflex model numbers.</p> <p>I think the 3.5 C was the first Rolleiflex to offer a built in light meter, I think it was optional on the one with Xenotar lens.</p> <p>I can't speak specifically about setting the film speed as I have a 2.8 C which does not have a light meter; however, here is a link to a manual that might help you.</p> <p>http://www.cameramanuals.org/rolleiflex/rolleiflex_3_5.pdf</p>

<p>4x5 paper negatives are a good idea for learning at a low cost; however, there are some caveats.</p> <p>1. Not easy to find 4x5 paper. Ilford make it but I only know of it online in 1000 sheets. UltrafineOnline.com also has 4x5 paper in a more manageable 400 sheets pack.</p> <p>2. 4x5 paper and 4x5 film are not exactly the same size. 4x5 paper is actually 4x5 whereas the film of the same size is a tad smaller in both dimensions. If you wish to use 4x5 paper you would have to trim it by approx. 1/16 to 1/8 inch to get it to fit in a 4x5 film holder.</p> <p>Because you would have to trim the paper it might be better to just trim 8x10 paper to fit.</p> <p>Some alternatives are...<br> 4x5 Direct Positive paper from Ilford is sized for 4x5 film holders but I am not sure if it is still available.<br> Ortho film is often less expensive Freestyle Photo and Ultrafine Online have their own brands.<br> Use Freestyle house brand Arista Ultra EDU in 4x5 film, it is a lot less expensive than the major brands.</p> <p>good luck</p>

<p>I have a Kodak something or other that takes 616 film.<br> I just took a simple approach to see what using 120 in it would be like.<br> I used 120 film on the original spool on the supply side, I just put little wall plugs in the spool ends to make it fit on to the spool holder. For the take up side I just left the original 616 spool in it and figured I would just unload it in the darkroom so no need to worry about the film not being light tight on the spool.<br> I masked the film gate for the 120 film width and then figured out the spacing and what numbers to use in the little red window.</p> <p>I shot one roll with this set up and the results are to be expected from a cheap kodak and lens but the semi-panoramic negative size is quite nice.<br> I might make a more permanent solution for the take up spool one day.</p>

This may help... http://www.reznitsky.info/Mamiya/Comchart.htm

<p>I have several Unicolor drums and they are all marked Unicolor on the non spout end as well as below the spout on the leg portion.</p> <p>It looks like you have the larger size one meant for 11x14 or 2 8x10 prints and I don't think you will be able to do 4x5 or 5x4 even in it.<br> You need to find the smaller drum that measures approx. 22cm x 11cm for 4x5.<br> The smaller drum can do 4 4x5 negatives at a time. They came with spacers to stop the sheets/negatives sliding over each other but they are nearly always missing, you can fashion some new ones easily but I just process 2 4x5 negatives at a time and don't bother with spacers.</p> <p>The roller base is nice to have but not absolutely needed as you can kind of roll it by hand.</p> <p>By the way, I believe Unicolor drums were intended and marketed as print drums but they can be used as negative film drums successfully.</p> <p>Good luck</p>

<p>I think it lasts a long time anyhow but I do what Larry does.<br> I just bought 2 of the 1 liter bottles of HC-110 and the one I have opened so far is now decanted into 250 ml glass bottles filled to the brim.</p>

<p>Nice post and photos.<br /> Steam trains and old cameras; my two favorites.</p> <p>Thanks for sharing.</p>

<p>The actual Diafine formula is not published but there are Diafine type formulas to be found on the net.<br> To make one of these Diafine type formulas from raw chemicals is very inexpensive.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Now I need to get these all put away before my wife gets home. She's never seen all them out at once.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> Too late, the cat's already out of the bag!</p>

The only chemicals you absolutely have to have for black and white are developer and fixer. You can use water as a stop bath and hypo clear is optional. Mix the entire gallon of D76 and just use from it the amount you need. Look on the Ilford website, they have some good PDF's on basic film developing.