martin_dake

If you are missing the baseboard you are probably missing the baseplate as well as the bolts and dogs/lugs. The base plate is attached to the baseboard and the dogs/lugs hold the column to this using the bolts and collars. The bolt and lug sets are easy found on eBay but not so easy to find the baseplate part unless you find a complete baseboard. Try KHB photographic as they seem to have baseplate and bolt sets... Baseplate and Mounting Hardware for Omega D & E Enlargers - Used KHB is a great resource for learning about Omega enlargers. The Omega Enlarger Guide: Simmon Omega Enlargers menu page Make sure you understand the differences between D2 and DII as there are differences with mounting. I have a D5, actually a couple, if you need pictures of respective mounting parts. Another option is to forget mounting to a baseboard and mount it to a wall instead. This might be easier with just some steel bar or angle iron. Do a google search for wall mounting Omega D, I am sure this can be done without an original Omega bracket without a lot of work.

The Film Strip Holder from a ES-E28 will fit the ES-1. The ES-E28 was a set made for Nikon point and shoot and can be found on eBay etc for next to nothing. It comes with the adapter to fit a point and shoot, a film strip holder and a slide holder for 2 slides; the adapter part is not needed for use with an ES-1. When using the ES-E28 film strip holder with the ES-1 you cannot slide the strip holder from frame to frame as the springs in the ES-1 get in the way so you have to remove the holder and move the to the next frame. Or, as someone else pointed out you could modify the ES-1 by removing the slide holder springs.

<p>I have several of the self-contained slide duplicators mentioned by Rodeo Joe but probably by different names.<br /> While these are simple to use they will crop on a APS-C camera to were you only get the center 66% of your slide. Even though they are "Zoom" the zoom goes the wrong way and crops even more. <br /> The reason for this is they were made to use on 35mm film cameras.<br /> There are newer recreations of these self contained units of varying quality that would work on APS-C sized cameras but I doubt the objects are as good as a regular lens.</p>

<p>Try that again for the picture...</p><div></div>

<p>Here is a picture of my setup, mounted on my D200.<br /> The film strip holder is at the side and the slide holder mounted in the adapter.</p> <p> </p>

<p>The problem with the old cheap slide duplicators from years ago is they will crop a 35mm slide if used on an APS-C camera like a Nikon D200 as they were made for full frame 35mm; not to mention the poor optics contained within them.</p>

<p>I found these articles very useful when I was researching the same thing.</p> <p>http://www.throughthefmount.com/articles_tips_digitise.html<br /> http://www.scantips.com/es-1c.html</p> <p>The simplest solution is to buy a 60mm Micro Nikkor and an ES-1 slide copy attachment.<br /> I have a D200 and D90 and a 55mm Micro Nikkor with Nikon M2 and K1-5 extensions.<br /> I did not want to spend a lot of money and a PB4 Bellows unit goes for a lot of money but it is probably the simplest solution.<br /> Even the Nikon ES-1 Slide Copy adapter is $60 and while it works for slides it does not really work for negatives without modification.<br /> I decided to see what I could do with what I had on hand and for little additional cash spending.</p> <p>I cobbled together what I had on hand and a Nikon Es-28 slide/negative holder. I ended up with my Nikon D90 with the M2 extension and my Nikkor Micro 55mm. I adapted the ES-28 to the front of my lens with a 49mm and 55M-55M filter adapter. I found this put the slide to close to the camera and would not focus without cropping so I used a couple of K tubes between the lens and slide holder to put the focus point further out.</p> <p>The reason why I went with the Nikon ES-28 is it comes with both a slide holder and a 35mm film strip holder for negatives, I wanted to digitize negatives as well. The ES-28 can be picked up very cheap, I got mine new for $9 plus shipping. The ES-28 was made to attach to the front of an early Nikon point and shoot but it was perfect for what I needed once I adapted it for my needs.</p> <p>Just a note...<br /> My 55mm Micro Nikkor is Non AI which is a no no on a Nikon digital DSLR; however, my M2 tube while technically pre AI is quite safe to use on a Nikon DSLR.<br /> Plenty of other lenses will do the same thing, even old 35-70 or kit lenses can be used just by extending either the lens from body or slide adapter from lens. Many even reverse a normal lens to accomplish macro capability.</p> <p>I have an Epson scanner that I have used and still use for medium and large format but for 35mm using a DSLR is so much faster.<br /> Good luck</p>

<p>I have this lens but I have never used it for Macro, I don't use it for much of anything really so I can't comment on the image quality.<br> I think Pentax had a bit of a stretch calling it a Macro lens as it is more of a close focus lens.<br> It will focus as close as 2.5 feet which according to the literature I have with the lens is 0.3 magnification and a long way from 1:1.</p> <p>I think pretty much any lens needs extension to achieve 1:1.<br> I have the Pentax extension tube set but even using #1, 2 1 and 3 extension tubes will not give 1:1; I seem to remember reading somewhere you still need to add the helicoid extension tube to achieve 1: or beyond.</p> <p> </p>

You can also use glass Soda or water bottles, some brands use glass bottles like San Peligrino. Also, ask nicely at your local pharmacy if you can buy a few medicine bottles. They will either sell you, or just give, a few new medicine bottles or ones used for their bulk supply. Where are you located that you have trouble getting them at a decent price?

<p>Set the shutter speed dial on the body to the mark with the red dot, it is between 1000 and B.<br> The ASA (ISO) dial is on the prism, pull it out and turn to the correct ASA.<br> Look through the viewfinder and press the white button on the right side of the prism and adjust the aperture on the lens or shutter speed dial on the prism so that the meter shows the correct exposure in the viewfinder; do not turn the shutter speed dial on the body.</p> <p>Do you have the camera yet, it will make sense once you have the camera and the manual.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Depends what your definition of "works" is.<br> Without a battery the camera is not usable. The fact that the shutter will open without a battery and close if you press the battery check is not really a camera that "works". In order to fully assess if the camera works correctly and use it for taking pictures you will need a battery. Don't forget if the camera has a metered prism (PDS prism) the battery also powers it.<br> </p>

<p>The Mamiya 645 1000s requires a 6 volt PX28 type battery to work correctly as the shutter is electronically controlled. If you cock and fire the shutter without a battery in the camera the shutter will open and remain open until you press the battery check button.<br /> You should check out Mike Butkus's site for the manual; consider leaving a small donation as Mike requests as he does a great job keeping us old camera types supplied with manuals.</p> <p><a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_m645_1000s/mamiya_m645_1000s.htm">http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_m645_1000s/mamiya_m645_1000s.htm</a></p> <p>Good luck with your 645, I have a couple and they are some of my favorite cameras to use.</p>

Don't give up on your 3200. I believe if you purchase Vuescan it will work with Win 10 as it does not need the Epson drivers, much cheaper than buying a new scanner.

I found this article very helpful when getting started with my Epson scanner. http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/scanning/index.php

<p>My life is now complete, a post of mine is the first link in a Google search and it is to do with Hand Jobo.</p> <p>Seems my iPad went a bit weird with the auto complete so I will repeat this part....<br> <strong>I am not sure how well Jobo tanks perform when used with larger quantities of liquid but you could just place the reel in the tank, pour in water until the reel is covered then measure the amount of water and use that much developer and fixer etc when developing by hand.</strong></p>

These drums are really meant for rotation and that volume is for when used this way. If by agitation you mean holding upright and agitating then you probably did not have enough developer to evenly develop the film. You could use the tank by laying it on its side and rolling it back and forward on a counter top so it does complete revolutions. Other than that you could find a Jobo manual roller base, a Unicolor roller base or a Jobo processor. I am not sure how well Jobo tanks perform when used with larger quantities of liquid but you could just place the reel in the tank, pour in Andrea Calabresiafter until the reel is covered then measure the amount of water and use that much developer and fixer etc when developing by hand.

<blockquote> <p>How do you guys storage 2 negatives? Any storage advice?<br> </p> </blockquote> <p>6x7 is my favorite format but I am always lost when it comes to cutting and storing the strips.<br> I usually cut in strips of 3 and often waste 1 negative on purpose.<br> As for cutting for scanning, you can still cut in strips of 3 but it means you will have to scan 2 then slide the negative along in the carrier to scan the 3rd negative.<br> I have a very old Epson that can scan only 1 6x7 at a time but I still cut the strips into 3 negatives and just scan one at a time; at least my carrier allows a strip of 3 that I can slide the strip to the next frame but I am not sure of the newer ones.<br> </p>

<p>I just checked my 67II prism against my 67 prism and while the look almost identical there is a slight difference to the leading edge of the prisms. The 67 prism is square cut where it sits at the front of the body whereas the 67II as a chamfered edge which prevents it from fully seating on a 67 and 6x7 body.<br> So, in my opinion you cannot use a 67II prism on the earlier 67 or 6x7 bodies; others might know different though.</p> <p> </p>

<p>No, you cannot use the tank without the center column as the column is part of the light tight design.<br> You can buy the columns from some of the online stores or direct from Paterson themselves.<br> Try Freestyle Photo or BH Photo if you are in the US or Paterson's own site http://www.patersonphotographic.com/product_info.php?ID=5944&licenseKey=38766b5aba7056dc12ebc00c6db476bc</p>

<blockquote> <p>First of all, I did a print with 'black and white photo print' box ticked.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> You want to have that box <strong>unticked</strong>. If you leave it ticked it will force the printer to force B&W using the colors instead of just the B&W inks; at least that what happens on my PRO-100.<br> Not sure if the Important Notes below are the same for the PRO-1 but it is worth looking into.<br> <img src="http://canonusa.i.lithium.com/t5/image/serverpage/image-id/2243i1A2EAC873DF6EDA9/image-size/original?v=mpbl-1&px=-1" alt="black and white printing - manuel.png" /><br> <img src="http://canonusa.i.lithium.com/t5/image/serverpage/image-id/2244i547BEBA9BD3D1BB9/image-size/original?v=mpbl-1&px=-1" alt="color correction.png" /></p>

<p>Even if you have converted the image to B&W and using Photoshop color management make sure there is not an option checkbox for 'Print B&W' or something like.<br> I don't have a PRO-1 but a PRO-100 and I use PSE; when I get to the print options there is a said checkbox option. If I enable this option the printer tries to use the color inks to make the blacks and I get a greenish cast even though the original image is B& W to begin with.<br> Just an idea for you to check.</p>

I would check KEH to give an idea of retail price or as basis of price to pay for private sale. To use eBay completed search go to eBay click Advanced link in top right next to Search button. Type what are looking for then select the 'Completed listings' or 'Sold listings' checkbox and click Search button. This will show listings that have closed and if they sold or not and for how much.

I found this article helpful when thinking of the same question a while back. http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/scanning/index.php He has some other interesting articles.

Just use a rubber band wrapped tightly around the column in its place.

Maybe you could use a device like this... http://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Wireless-Companion-External-Filehub/dp/B00AQUMZRA/ref=pd_sim_147_6? ie=UTF8&dpID=31QjZSUenqL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0SAHTW6GRNK9FRCBMM 7N I have one of these and find it very useful. It is basically a Wii-Fi device that can read SD Cards, USB sticks and portable hard drives via the USB port. Your iPad can connect to it via Wi-Fi then you could use the supplied iPad app to transfer from the SD card to a portable drive or USB stick. The device can support SD and USB Up to 128gb or much larger portable drives connected to it. I must admit that I do not use mine for the same purpose you need so I don't know if the performance would meet your needs. I use mine as an extension of my iPad when travelling mainly to stream videos from the device to my iPad, it can even stream 2 separate videos when I want to watch a video from SD and the wife wants to watch a different video that is on the USB.