graybrick

<p>Another sweeping doomsday prediction based on a single application of a versatile technology. I'm not sure what your reference to CCTV means. HD is simply another advancement in imaging. It's up to the production crew how it's used. More likely the BBC will ruin documentary photography.</p>

<p>Let's see, your flash capacitor packs a wallop. Your battery and some components of your circuitry are potentially toxic. Your lens caps may pose a choking hazard if you have a big mouth and a degree of dietary indiscretion. Photographing volcanoes, landscapes on the edge of cliffs, lightning storms, motorsports, buses and trains may be hazardous to your health. Then again, walking can pose a serious risk for certain people. Most of us should be ok.</p>

<p>no. I wouldn't know. Even when you tell me, I still won't know.</p>

<p>Recently I have been lucky to get <em>a single rate </em>on my posts. I've also noted that the default top rated queue often has only a few shots in it due to extremely low numbers of ratings being given. I'm thinking the critique forum is pretty much dead.</p>

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<p>The parallax indicator is white, that is correct. The red indicator is the lens lock, and is not supposed to be visible in the 'locked' position. Make sure the dial is set all the way to lock and run a test roll. Also you can check the baffle position by removing the lens or looking in the film compartment I think (I would check this but my camera has film in it. Good luck.</p>

<p>First, the red line is probably the exposure compensation guide. When you focus, the lens moves relative to the film plane, and as you focus closer less and less light reaches the film. The 'line' moves with the focusing and reads on a scale which gives you a factor by which you need to multiply your exposure to get a true reading. For example, if the line is at 2, and your meter reading gives you <a href="mailto:1/120sec@f/5.6">1/120sec @ f/5.6</a>, then you'll need to either go 1/60sec or f/2.8 to get the proper exposure. Be sure your focal length scale is set correctly (looking at camera front- right side above focus knob, should be set to match your lens length).</p>

<p>The ASA and color/bw dials don't actually do anything, but they can be set to remind you what you put in the camera for film speed, color/b&w, negative or slide- I was just trying to remember what's in mine a couple hours ago : )</p>

<p>The prism view has very little to do with what actually goes on the film. Your top lens is your viewfinder lens, and the bottom lens opens onto the film compartment. If your taking (bottom) lens is clean then you should have no problems. More than likely you have dust on your view screen or prism somewhere, but in any case it's not going to be the dust (if any) in your pictures. </p>

<p>Keep in mind that in close focusing situations parallax will be a factor as what you see is actually a little above what you're shooting with the other lens. The line we wondered about earlier also gives you a rough idea where the top of the frame will be at that focusing distance, allowing you to estimate your composition and reset your camera position before shooting. There is also a tripod mounted mechanism that jacks the camera up to put the taking lens exactly where the finder lens is before shooting if you can find one on ebay.</p>

<p>As for the winder and lens trigger, I can't tell you for sure if there's a problem. Shoot a test roll and you'll figure it out.</p>

<p>Be sure you set the pressure plate to the right format (ie 120 or 220) for your film.</p>

<p>Too busy, no real focal point to latch on to, high contrast in trees, drab lighting. This doesn't work as a story teller or a graphic composition in my opinion.</p>

<p>A1, 70-200mm f/4, Elite Chrome 100 xpro<BR><img src="<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/photo?photo_id=5660366&size=lg"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/5660366-md.jpg" border="0" alt="Kodak Elite Chrome 100, cross-process" width="680" height="1007" /></a>"></p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/category/7224/Film_120_220_Sheet_Film.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/category/7224/Film_120_220_Sheet_Film.html</a></p>

<p>=</p>

<p>FWIW, the specific lens I am referrring to here is the 70-200 f/2.8 L, "Canon Lens Made in Japan". Despite outsourcing, this is a product manufactured in Japan and so its value must originate in the Japanese currency. Thus, exchange rates must be irrevocably tied to its original international wholesale value, and will surely play into its retail price. This assertion is not to discount the presence of other factors in the final financial equation, but it seems that the recent across-the-board price adjustment for Japanese-manufactured goods could be attributed to an increase in relative value of the Yen, and all other things being equal this could by itself account for the correction. Taking into account that the strength of the Yen amounts to a price increase on exports in and of itself, this can drive a drop in exports and may further exacerbate the situation as firms are forced to make real wholesale price increases to maintain profitability on a smaller number of sales(who would think that strong currency could be bad for an economy?). I'm no financial anylist, but this has been my take on at least part of the situation. Thanks for the replies so far, this has been an interesting and insightful discourse.</p>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/5189247-lg.jpg">

<p>I'm thinking of selling one of my lenses. Times is hard, I needs the money, yadda yadda blah blah. I bought it a while back, before the market went nuts. It seems it's now worth more than I paid for it, with the correction in the market driving the yen value through the proverbial roof compared to the dollar (should've investesd in a few of those...). I'm wondering what's going to happen. Will the economy spring back to life in the States? Will the dollar regain some of its lost value? Will the exchange rate return to its prior 'normal'? Specifically, will Canon lenses drop in price in response to economic stimulation in the same way they have recently increased so prodigiously? If I sell high, but can't ever expect to buy low again, what do I gain? This is an open question.</p>

<p>Poboy from Tennessee</p>

<p>Maybe boost the contrast with curves? Fog=haze. Tough luck. : )</p>

<p>Did she pay you to shoot? Did you have a contract of any kind? Without a contract, the photos belong to you by default. (Disclaimer: I AM NOT A LAWYER) I would get with her and find out her plans for production and sale, and I would ask for royalty on use as either a one-time fee or based on sales with a small starting fee. This is my opinion, and I do not sell photography so there will be better informed opinions coming for sure. I'd also like to see samples for reference.</p>

<p>GM</p>

<p>Three things- check the battery contacts for corrosion and clean them. Try the power function switch in different positions, and take the lens off and try again. It's a little strange for the battery check doesn't work, so it seems like a simple problem of no power from battery to electronics, and should be straightforward to fix, unless it involves the switch mechanism.</p>

<p>Perhaps I exxagerate with 'every other', but yesterday it was asking me about every 5-6 repititions, enough to convince me that it was more of a pain than it was worth. Further, it would ask me to input letters after I rated a shot, then put the shot back up again directly without the rating I had just entered, requiring me to input my rating for said shot twice. I did enjoy the randomizer for the critique queue, though it seems critiques are a rare bird around here these days.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=5241911">http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=5241911</a></p>

I gave up a long time ago on getting any kind of feedback resembling a critique in the "Critique Forum". Having not

posted to the forum in a while, I thought the other day that I would give it another go. I critiqued (to the best of my

ability, briefly) several other shots, and posted my own. I even gave the ratings thingy a go again. What I found was

this:

 

As expected, feedback on my work was all but non-existent, save for one two-word comment which I couldn't discern

as sarcastic or genuine.

 

The rating machine has become so wonky with having to input the letter scramble doohickey every other rating that

it's now more a pain in the bum to use than before. Final result is that my ratings mean even less than they did

before as n=4 is hardly representative of any section of viewer opinion.

 

Now, I wonder "Why bother"? I'd be fine being disappointed that people think my work sucks, as opinion might help

me see differently and give me ideas to improve upon, but posting to an all but nonexistent lack of response is hardly

worth waiting up for.

 

What are your experiences of late?

<p>Ouch. Knocked the hood right off his L... I can't imagine there being no more damage to the gear, and he sure looked like he was in a bit of agony too. Moral of the story- no running or horseplay around the pool.</p>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/5693389-md.jpg">

<p>I'm thinking no. The cold back will cause condensation on contact with air, and you'll end up with water damage. If you're not storing it for several years, it won't make a significant difference in your film quality as long as you store it in reasonable conditions.</p>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/7079612-md.jpg">

<p>that should clear things up, if you're not convinced already</p>