Jump to content

graybrick

Members
  • Posts

    501
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by graybrick

  1. piero- a lot of people do it that way. I use the Walgreen's drug store around the corner for C41 developing, send out my E6 films to a pro lab, and develop B/W in the bathroom, then scan everything for post processing. Some shots get major reworkings, some get dust removal and minor contrast/balance adjustments only. Then I send out for prints if the shot is, in my estimation, worthy. I also shoot a 20D on a fairly regular basis, but I do still enjoy negative and transparency films. My fiancee shoots film almost exclusively because she enjoys it.

     

    As for the pros, I can't say as I am not one. I would be a little upset if everybody just quit producing slide film, though.

  2. Dear Santa- Please hook me up with a <a href="http://www.engadget.com/2007/10/18/hasselblads-39-megapixel-h3dii-39ms-dslr-brings-the-multi-shot/">Hasselblad H3DIIMs</a> with the 39MP back, a set of fast lenses for same, and a basic light kit. If you're feeling really generous you can put in my order for the <a href="http://www.popphoto.com/photonews/3118/zeiss-shows-off-monster-telephoto-lens.html?print_page=y">Zeiss 1700mm f/4 </a>(you'll need to special order this one, thanks). I'll come overf next week and get you a series of hawt Mrs. Claus portraits from across the ice cap if you want. If this is too much, I'll take an EF 70-200 f/2.8L instead. Thanks.
  3. First, I wouldn't rush to too many conclusions about how much one of these will be used. Both are basically the size of a larger point and shoot, but with added versatility. In the dSLR world, too, they're the low end of the price range. I think that with a little familiarity, either of these cameras is likely to be used extensively.

     

    As for Canon vs Nikon, it is a personal preference. They both make fine photo equipment, and these are both excellent starter SLRs. I use Canon, and I would recommend them, and a lot of Nikon users will recommend Nikon. As for benefits of one over the other, it's an exhaustively debated subject and a wash. I think the price you quoted is pretty much the going rate for either as well. That said, I will recommend looking for a refurbished model to save money. I bought my 20D refurbished after my forst one that I paid full price for was stolen, and the refurb is good as new for about $200 less than a new one. Then you can spend the extra $$ on a 50mm f/1.8 (<$100), which is a very useful lens and in both cases better optical quality than the kit lenses. Get the kit lens, too, of course, as the zoom is nice to have.

  4. Try Ilford Delta3200 rated at 12800, 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.2, and your favorite selection of f/2.8 lenses. Good results developed on DDx developed 68F for ~2x the suggested time. Cut agitation regimen in half for finer grain and slightly lower contrast... of course, this will give you some gritty rock-n-roll quality shots with a lot of character. Otherwise, you're stuck battling the lack of ambient light and you may need to find a nearby location with alternate lighting possibilities, or the flash diffuser thingy, or bring a small softbox or some sort of reflector you can set up somewhere...
  5. Thanks, JDM, for your non-answer. I can't read, that's why I ask silly rhetorical questions in these internet forums. I had hoped perhaps you would RTFM and explain it to me.

     

    I have not had issues with EC getting inadvertantly adjusted out of range. I have had issues, however, with the power switch getting bumped into the middle position and wondering why I couldn't make adjustments for a minute... same with people turning the power off- I'm so used to the near instant response on the trigger that I get thrown off when I press the button and the lights don't come on. I've missed several shots that way.

     

    I find it interesting that others have found the on/on/off functionality useful despite my lack of enthusiasm for it. It seems a little random to me, in fact, to have a function that disables one of the controls specifically.

     

    Anyone found out what the heck the direct print button does?

  6. WTF? Why are there two 'on' settings for this thing? Why would I want to

    disable the fancy little wheel that I paid at least an extra fifty bucks for

    when I bought the thing? This has puzzled me for a couple years now, and to no

    avail. And while I'm at it, it kinda irks me when I hand my camera to someone

    else and they have the decency to find and actuate the 'off' function of said

    power selector switch. After all, it goes to sleep on its own, so I just don't

    turn it off...

  7. I've had that problem sometimes, and been surprised that it didn't happen others. It's a bit of an enigma, but at $8 a pop it only took me a few times to get paranoid enough to check the switch twice when putting my camera in the bag. I don't know why it happens exactly, and I did leave mine in the A position a few days ago for two days with no problem... so my reply is not an answer, but turn the power selector to L when you finish shooting, OK?
  8. Mammy... I do it all the time. I loves my mammy. I lurve mah mammy. Oh, and it's easier to roll off my tongue than mamiya since I don't really speak so much japanese. My pet peeve is when people name drop for no particular reason. Oh, yeah, and I do use a Mamiya and a Canon 20D and an Asahi Pentax K1000 and a Canon A1 and a vivitar plasticam and a Polaroid 130 and I used to have a Seagull and a Yaschica and I've got a couple broken AE1s and a Canon T90...
  9. Verification: Take out the lens. Look at it. Does it have the numbers 70 and 200 on it? Does it have some switchy thingies that seem to pertain to an anti-vibration mechanism? Does it say Canon on it? Is it creamy white colored? Does it have a red ring on its distal end? If you answered yes to all these, you probably have your lens.
  10. It was stolen from my car, and I usually don't leave my cameras in the car, but... well hell... anyway, the car insurance won'

    t cover it but the homeowner's insurance will cover at least part of it... though how much is, at this point, unclear, as I don't have reciepts for everything. Still beyond the point, though, as I'm really mostly interested in getting my hands around the neck of the f***ers that stole my kit in the first place and getting the three rolls of film that were in my cameras back...

  11. I recently lost most of my good camera equipment to thieves including a Mami

    C330, Canon A1, Seagull TLR, and a Canon 20D. I realize that ther's no way to

    track a film camera, but the 20D has a unique ID number embedded in every shot

    that it takes, which is preserved by lots of editing programs. I'm wondering

    if there's a way to track a camera by this ID number if, say, shots are posted

    to online sites from my camera. I'm ready to pummel some punk ass over this.

    I miss my cameras. Any ideas?

×
×
  • Create New...