steve_bellayr

<p>Nikon F3HP with Ai, Ai-S or even Zeiss lenses. They are plentiful and available in excellent shape. Motor drive is easy to use. </p>

<p>Sorry, I think you may have confused what I meant. I was not referring to him about numbers on the lens. If you read the book you will realize that he does now the numbers on the lens. What I meant the book was better than a course with people who do not know the numbers on the lens, i.e. computer whizes who buy a camera, learn photoshop, and state that they are experts. Sorry if I confused you. I do recommend the book for beginners; and I have given it to others who want to start taking photos. </p>

<p>I read the book. It is a good basic book. It does not include any technical data or computer technology. It might save you money by reading it than taking one of the many offered courses. ( I have know people who have spent a couple of hundred dollars for a one day course in photography taught by instructors who did not know what the numbers of the lens meant.) </p>

<p>I, too, recommend the above: Henry W. Scherer. The turnaround time, however, will not be quick as he is the best and has many clients.</p>

<p>If you can have it cleaned for $100 then that would still make it a good purchase.</p>

<p>Erwin Puts in his "Leica Practium" stated that for B&W the Leica M digital was equal to the film camera. <br />As for me I have no opinion, just wanted to add that small item for those who do not have the "Practium."</p>

<p>What is the point of buying a meterless camera and then putting a meter on top of it? I would go with either an M6 in the alternate color body than the one you currently own; silver for color, & black for b&w; or an M6 with a 0.85 viewfinder. The later makes the 50mm easier to view. </p>

<p>Sounds to me like you are describing the Leica M7.</p>

<p> I agree with John Shriver.</p>

<p>As for the gossen light meter, which I do have, I prefer the light meter app on my cell phone. It is easier to use.</p>

<p>Anyone familiar with the Arco 35 Automatic D (rangefinder) with an f2.4 lens? Just found one which appears to be in working condition except for vertical alignment which is off. If I am correct, the vertical alignment should not matter. Again, anyone have contact with this item? Thanks.</p>

<p>If you are planning to blow up your images to larger than 11x14 then go with the a larger negative. The 35mm will provide you with ample landscape and street shooting. I do not use the Nikon 35mm f2.0 lens but rather the Zeiss 35mm f2.0. The the used marked they are both about the same price...the last time I looked (a good number of years ago). [The reason I chose the Zeiss over the Nikon was that there are a number of models of the Nikon and not all were of the highest standards, which is what I read. The Zeiss was always highly rated.]</p>

<p>Much less expensive to buy a another ex+ Nikkormat than have current one it repaired. Check prices at dealers.</p>

<p>You need to look further back into the '30s, '40s, '50s, & '60s. During the 1930s the 35mm of choice was the Leica & Zeiss. At the end of WW II the Zeiss factory was taken by the Russians. In the '50s Nikon came up with their rangefinders as did Canon. The Nikons out performed the Canons, with the only Canons of any that had lasting quality were the P & 7 which used screwmount lenses from the Leica system. The Nikon S2 and the later models were quickly adapted by professionals. In the '60s Nikon came out with the F & Nikkormat lines which were outstandingly rugged though their lenses being very good were equal to other companies. Canon did not come out with a SLR (F1) until about 1970. Nikon's main competitor was the Pentax Spotmatic which had outstanding lenses but unfortunately its metering system had to be reset after every photograph which meant in the SLR field Nikon was virtually without serious competitors until the F1 appeared almost ten years later. (The main competitor for Nikon was Leica.) This gave Nikon the upper hand in reputation. </p>

<p>I have a number of bags. The Think Tank is the one I prefer. However, go to a large thrift store and buy an old leather bag. You can buy the appropriate inserts on Amazon. The best is non-descript no name bag. Some people go so far as using diaper bags. But, whatever you do buy a climbing carabiner to hang from the strap so when you set the bag down you can attach it to some large object that is immobile. </p>

<p>Condition, condition, condition. Serial numbers and models are extremely important. Recommend any reputable camera dealer that sells used Leica equipment. </p>

<p>I tried ordering from them but no response. Check resellerratings and dpreview give extremely negative reviews of their service. In most cases people are billed with no item sent.</p>

<p>I tried to order from Boca Photo. It appears that they are a bogus internet company. I never received the item. Luckily, so far I have not been billed. I tried contacting them with no response. I also checked resellerratings and they get a 1/5. </p>

<p>If you are looking to sell it send it to KEH or any of the other camera stores that will buy it. You must remember on anything it is Condition, Condition, Condition. </p>

<p>Thank you on that Boca Photo. It seems that they have the retaining rings and eye cups. </p>

<p>I picked up a Nikon F2 Photomic which needed a rubber eye cup. I purchased a DK-3 which is the recommended rubber cup for the Nikon F2 series, however, the ring (which did not have glass) the was attached to the camera was too short or shallow (not enough threads) to screw the rubber eye cup to the camera. Do you know where I might obtain the proper ring, preferably, in glass to attach the rubber eye cup?</p>

<p>I use reproduction screw in lens hoods with cut outs. They are sold with a cap that fits over the hood; and are very inexpensive. They are sold on ebay.</p>

<p>Have the camera focus mechanism looked at by anyone familiar with Leica. Sounds like a practice problem. It takes a while to get used to that mechanism. It is definitely trickier than a split screen image mechanism. </p>

<p>I would use the camera for a couple of rolls of film and see if you like the results. There are IMHO three things to consider 1. Film today as opposed to 50 years ago has a greater latitude; 2. How accurate does the shutter speed have to be with a meter reading. For example older cameras have 1/50 as opposed to the newer 1/60. Does this make a difference? and 3. Your personal vision: Will it be impacted negatively? Old cameras are mechanical objects and their tolerance does not have to be accurate. </p> <p> </p>

<p>Personally, I understand your concern and dismay. I purchased a Canon P with a wrinkled shutter from KEH. It was described as such. It has worked perfectly. If you are uncomfortable with it then I recommend that you return it.</p>