William Michael

In what role? What were your responsibilities? What is the market there? Not really relevant at this point of the Business Planning. Answering the questions above will be start to your Business Plan. WW

I don't like them. For events (and weddings) I use(d) an individual strap for each camera. Carrying three cameras, typically two with long straps slung over my shoulders, and one on a wrist strap. With two cameras, typically one slung and one on my wrist strap. If using Flash, then those would be on the slung cameras, usually on a bracket. Wrist strap camera never has Flash. I tried belt clip and bracket and I found the weight distribution on my waist was uncomfortable. If using a Telephoto Lens (300 or longer) then that's usually on a Monopod and when not in use I leave it on the ground near where I am shooting and carry it over shoulder when traveling. I don't tend to 'carry' my kit bag around with me when shooting, I leave it close by in a safe place, unless I have an assistant, which is rare these days. *** The extremely good quality Zoom Lenses, Digital Cameras and large content recording cards available nowadays, allows Wedding and Event Photographers to travel carrying (only) two Camera Bodies and two Zoom Lenses (or in the case of Events, such as Sport, one Camera with a Zoom and one with a Telephoto) A few extra recording cards; a note taking device (i.e. mobile phone); White Card; Colour Check Card; and perhaps a Flash Modifier, in their pocket. If using flash, each Camera could have a Speedlite, perhaps one on a Bracket, if necessary. *** As a general comment: Since 2004, I have extolled the virtues of a Dual Format Digital System with two (fast) Zoom Lenses for uses such as Weddings and Events - that is the basic kit for this type of work. If using Flash then add two good quality Speedlites. Digital Cameras and the advancement in Zoom Lens technology (and Digital Post Production) has done away with the need for carrying 3 or 4 cameras, Multiple Lenses, Film Bags, and a lot of "stuff". These advancements should allow the Photographer to focus more on the Photography, not all the ad-on 'stuff' that sales folk and internet bloggers would have one believe is necessary and professional. WW

My comment addresses only Portraiture, in its widest meaning - "photographing people'. The main focus of my Photography, both Professional and Amateur, is and has been 'people'. Mentioned many times before in these Forums is "rapport". A suggestion addressing 'ideas of things you can "do" with amateur photography' whilst incorporating 'it is nice to do something constructive with what I have' - would be to seek out the opportunities of Portraiture (as I defined above). I continue to shoot amateur Sports fixtures, mainly Youth Swimming and Field Hockey - give the keepers to the Clubs for their Facebook page etc. (as one example) If you have connection with a Church - consider an expose on the History of the Church - That could be Architecture - the Prominent people - what they each do - the ideas are limitless . . . *** I mention 'rapport' because it is a great thrill (for me) to engage with people, when working through the lens: people from all walks of life and with an host of diverse experiences and viewpoints of and on life. A value add, is one the shutter is released, I have that moment, for ever. And sometimes doors open very wide to ongoing constructive experiences - WW

In light of Glen's comments, to be clear I was thinking the OP (exclusively) meant using an Enlarger and Wet, Photographic Paper Development, when he wrote "film negative and developing it on photo paper". WW

WW

Gidday and welcome, Interesting screen name: I didn’t study much Chemistry, but I do remember Bismuth is like a Metal, but not a true Metal. Amazing what we remember. Arhh, "Boof" I think has origins in the Newspaper Cartoon 'Dagwood and Blondie' Good name, a contraction of "Boof-Head". That's something my Dad called me, often. I reckon you might get lots of advice, My first advice is to post an image on which you are seeking advice in Seeking Critique Forum. Include the shooting conditions and EXIF and also explain what you wanted to achieve, but didn't. Hope you enjoy Photo.net. WW

The HDMI OUTPUT of the EOS7D is MINI HDMI PORT (female) therefore to connect to that, you will need one end of the cable to be MINI HDMI JACK (male) Need to confirm exactly what the connection is on your monitor - perhaps a photo will assist? The next question is, if the input to your Monitor is not HDMI, then before buying cable, you should confirm that the HDMI output of the 7D is compatible with the INPUT of your Monitor. WW

Hello and welcome Big "party", nice shot. Here is one of my photos of a party with inside atmosphere - WW

Understand. Thank you for your efforts thus far. I encourage you can put your mind to enjoying other aspects of PN during this demanding period. If I recall correctly, you have been around for along time and, not necessarily because of that longevity only, are a valued Member. WW

Thank you for your efforts. Totally understand your feel discouragement. My suggestion: don't report the spam, enjoy other parts of PN instead. The spam will be removed - just choose to ignore it until it is removed. *** I am quite certain that idea is at the top of the leader board for adaptation. As I have mentioned before - all suggestions are read and appreciated: please understand that implementation of 'quality updates' is neither immediate, nor necessarily easy. WW

If that test revels what appears as Printer Ink - then that is a very good indication that the image is printed from a scan. Good luck. Oh well the journey through Google was probably not that bad - something to moan about over a beer, or coffee with a friend. BTW I loved Alaska, so much fun - my body-clock went haywire. WW

If I understand your question, the difference would be the paper and the chemicals contained therein. Enlarger or Wet Printing requires a chemical reaction in the paper; Printing a digital image (typically) is ink on paper or a variant. Hybrid printing, as mentioned (above), could confuse a touch/smell/texture investigation, however a forensic analysis to investigate the chemical components of the item has always been definitive in any situation I have experienced. Forensic Analysis in many situations can be relatively rudimentary. *** Not really. If you are in Alaska, (which is a long distance from me), and if you do not require an opinion to 'hold up in a court of law' then I suggest you ferret out an experienced Dark Room Technician (probably they're retired now) - any one who has worked for several years in a Darkroom would be able to provide a reasonable sturdy viewpoint. Don't know too much about Schools up your way, but down here some High Schools have active Dark Rooms, used to develop and print B&W Negs: this is for a historical significance, and context to the Matriculation Art Course, majoring in Photography: the Teachers are typically into B&W Film and Wet Printing the Negs - you might find a suitable "expert" there - add to that the resources of the Science Lab for chemical testing purposes. WW

Because (my) advice would be different, depending whether you were photographing at night or at daytime. As mentioned previously, in daylight Flash is generally used as "Fill" and my advice was according to that technique. If you are photographing outdoors at night time - then the Flash would typically be the Main (Key) Light source. In this situation you might try bouncing the Flash. No, I assumed nothing other than you required advice. Sarcasm is unwarranted. The advice you were requesting was unclear to me because there was confusing/contradictory information in your commentary thus more information was requested from you to best tailor my responses: to assist you. Good luck in your endeavours. WW

^^^ haha - If I recall - correctly that's a dry Australian humour in action. On the other hand, our West Point new-comer might like the challenge of fixing it, for the sake of fixing it: I have a trillion examples on my list, in my shed! WW

GENERAL COMMUNITY WIDE COMMENT - It has been mentioned several times by others, not I, yet I find it necessary to mention now: this new platform is way less than adequately equipped to manage and arrange in a manner to suit all user's requests. It will NEVER function the same as the previous iterations of Photo.net, that is FACT. There are some very talented and extremely dedicated Members who are managing the back end of the Forums and Images. This is done their OWN TIME and at their OWN EXPENSE. None of these folk require, nor ask for accolade, money nor any particular mention. Respect and understanding of the fact that: what we have is what we have will however go a long way in the journey. Also what goes a long way is respecting and understanding - Members' comments apropos ideas for improvement and drawing attention to shortcomings of the system are read and appreciated ALL Requests CANNOT be acted upon immediately - mostly all forum posts in Site Help are answered: understand that, given the limitation of the system, it is impossible to facilitate all requests. Have a great week end. WW

In that case it shall not be interpreted as "thank you". Mea Culpa. In the big scheme of things here at Photo.net and with respect to the numerous complaints concerning hundreds of images that seemingly* could not be deleted by the user who posted them - after the efforts to manage a system bulk deletion - complaining about having one or two remnants still existing does seem an insignificant whine. *** *seemingly because the process of deleting on this system is automatically TIME segmented. One should not assume an immediate response. Similar to a PC - one dumps the rubbish in "Trash", where it resides, until the Trash is EMPTIED. This functionality has been explained before. *** The image cited above, or a copy of it, appeared in "Sport" for User Comments. The image was "Hidden", which probably explains why you could not access it. Don't ask how it got into Sport, or why, I don't know. The image had several comments attached to it, one was from your login which read in part, "... it was so long ago I had forgotten about this". The image, which appeared in Sport, and the comments attributed to it, have been permanently deleted from the system. No thanks are required. WW

Clarifying - Does this mean: "Regardless of What Shutter Speed is selected on the Shutter Speed Dial [B 1 2 4 8 15 30 60 125 250 500 1000] when the Shutter Release Button is pressed, the Mirror goes UP and Shutter Curtain OPENS, and stays open, until I release my finger on the Shutter Button" If yes, then the camera is acting as if the "B" is ALWAYS selected. Therefore the fault is probably located somewhere in the shutter speed mechanism chain. This begins at the Shutter Speed Dial (outside the camera) and ends at the Shutter Mechanism (inside the camera). It might be a mechanical issue - for example (and hopefully simply) the Shutter Speed Dial is not engaged properly and that's why the selection is stuck on "B". WW

I think you need to explain more - over the weekend you want to take pictures using the flash outdoors, when exactly - at NIGHT or during DAYLIGHT hours? WW

As Sandy mentioned reporting a Spammer (new Member) ONCE, is sufficient - and is certainly both appreciated and very effective. The fact that last night (EU time) you saw many posts from one spammer is a function of several separate components: for example, in relation to the deleting of al those items and banning of the members - you would not have seen any of that spam if you logged on an hour or so later. What I mean is last night, 90% of the spam, and spammers happened within two, two hour windows and 90% of each batch of that spam and those spammer was gone and banned within 2 hours of the spammer joining Photo.net. The Spam Posts showing on the forums do not really do much to encourage spamming: most it it is automated. As mentioned previously (perhaps on another thread), the encouragement to spam is a meager payment to the third party spammer by the primary entity. It is the same basic principle as the spam/scam in your email and directed to you phone via calls and SMS. WW

That's good, yes? That's what you wanted, isn't it? Assuming your post is a "thank you"? , then - You're welcome. WW

You have two questions: 1. White Balance - if you are capturing JPEG only then use "daylight" setting. Better to capture raw, or raw + JPEG. 2. Bouncing the Flash backwards - I suggest you do not do that. Flash (Speedlites) are relatively low powered, compared to the sun. Typically Flash outdoors is used as "Fill". That is to "fill in the shadows, primarily on the face. It would be good to have a basic understanding of Guide Numbers. you don 't necessarily need to use the maths, but rather just understand that if you are outside and point the flash at a Subject, primarily lit by Sunlight or in Open Shade, then there will be a DEFINED DISTANCE from Subject To Camera, for each Aperture and ISO selected beyond which the Flash will have no effect on the image. As a guide, on a sunny day, or in open shade, you need to be about 15ft / 5 mtrs or closer to your Subjects for the Flash to be an effective Fill. Also depending upon the camera you are using, you also need to have your Shutter Speed at or slower than the Camera's Flash Sync Speed - some cameras are smart enough to know an active flash is attached and will automatically adjust the Shutter Speed this - or - will not allow the shutter to be released if the speed is too fast. WW

Good to have you return - especially your recent photo! Post more. Yes there have been many changes. One could write a book . . .

The lighter frame suits. Good eye, really nice capture. WW

Expanding: This is one example of why edit time is 10 minutes, (originally it was zero): - if the OP deleted the first image, then some of the comments following (i.e the critique which was requested), would not make sense. WW