hoshisato

<p>Thanks you all, I will give it a try and make it work once I've decided on a camera :-)</p>

<p>Thanks Martin, very helpful!<br>

I see what you mean: with the circumference being 2πr, and r being 7cm in the case of my drum, half de circumference would be a little over 21 cm, 8 inches in other words.</p>

<p>My dad picked up a Unicolor drum ages ago and now that I want to start dabbling a bit with 5x4 format, developing the negatives myself, I'm trying to figure out what I'm having and what is missing. The drum is 34cm long by 14cm in diameter but the only marking is 'Unicolor'. I know that I'm missing the roller machine and I have seen the mention of 'spacers' in the context of Unicolor drums but I do not know what there are. <br />My first question is: do I have a Unicolor film drum or a Unicolor paper drum? I guess it is a paper drum but that is good for LF negatives.The follow up question is: do I need anything other than a roller machine?</p><div></div>

<p>I have a Pentax ME in front of me now, my first camera, I bought it new when it was just introduced and I still use it. :-) <br>

You can find the manual here: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/pentax/pentax_me/pentax_me.htm<br>

But to quickly help you out: If you hold the camera such that the lens is pointing away from you, you can set the ISO of the film you are using by lifting the chrome ring of the knob on the left and turning it right or left so that the little window (marked ASA) shows the ISO you are using. </p>

<p>If you have other questions, let me know.<br>

--<br>

http://monochrome.me.uk/blog/</p>

<p>I set my scanner software to save the files in 16bit B&W TIFF. Not that I'm worried about disk space, mainly because if have the images printed, they come back as proper B&W, without the dark purple colour cast .</p>

<p>Thanks Tim, indeed it is from my Pentax 645NII camera. </p>

<p>I am using Rollei PAN 25 instead of ADOX CHS 25 and it works well for me. I was happy with the results in (semi) stand development and Rollei PAN 25 doesn't appear to scratch so easily as the ADOX CHS films did. Here is an example: http://monochrome.me.uk/blog/bridge-over-the-river-ijssel/<br /> BTW, ADOX CHS 25 is not the same as ADOX CMS 20.</p>

<p>Note that ADOX just released the ADOX FX-39, this is the way they introduced it in their Facebook group a few days ago:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Back to stay: FX-39. After Paterson had no interest in continuing the chemistry line we rememebered what we had promised Geoffrey Crawley about 10 years ago: "to keep his baby allive". Here he is again. We hope the 6 months interruption of supply has not led to escapades by its fans.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>http://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/chemistry/adox-fx-39-500ml.html</p>

<p>Note that ADOX just released the ADOX FX-39, this is the way they introduced it in their Facebook group a few days ago:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>After Paterson had no interest in continuing the chemistry line we rememebered what we had promised Geoffrey Crawley about 10 years ago: "to keep his baby allive". Here he is again. We hope the 6 months interruption of supply has not led to escapades by its fans.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>http://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/chemistry/adox-fx-39-500ml.html</p>

<p>Thanks, sounds like box speed is the way to go! </p>

<p>I have shot landscapes and cityscapes in Velvia 50 and loved the results and am now off to photograph some matsuri in Japan with loads of people in colourful kimonos, etc.<br />I have some Velvia 100F in my fridge and I understood that Velvia 100F handles skintones a lot better than Velvia 50 does. It will be outside and as it will happen in the afternoon, it might get a bit it dark, what EI would you recommend to get the best out of the film?</p>

<p>Now also available on 135 format: <a href="http://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/filme/adox-chs-100-ii-kleinbildfilm-13536.html">http://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/filme/adox-chs-100-ii-kleinbildfilm-13536.html</a> The details look very promising: <a href="http://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/images/products/media/44450_1_TA_CHS100II_EN.pdf">http://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/images/products/media/44450_1_TA_CHS100II_EN.pdf</a></p>

<p>I just noticed that this film is now available in Large Format 4x5 and 8x10; 135 and 120 format will follow shortly. For you guys on the other side of the pond, I believe Freestyle is their distributor in the US.</p>

<p>As for being orthopanchromatic, wasn't the original ADOX CHS 25 pretty blind for red too? That was one of my favourite B&W films!</p>

<p>Some good news on the film front for a change: Summarizing from the ADOX Facebook page and their webpage, I can report that ADOX CHS 100 II film will be available from (the end of) August in many formats (135, 120 to large format except 127 format.) It is reported to be close to the original film in characteristics and has lost some of the problems reported with the original film (light piping and scratching easily during development)<br>

See here for more: http://monochrome.me.uk/news/adox-chs-100-ii-in-august/</p>

<p>Would you know where I would be able to get a few rolls of slide film (35mm) developed in or around Luxembourg? If not, what mail order processing firm could you recommend in the area of Luxembourg, Germany, Belgium, etc?</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>Hans</p>

<p>Thanks Doug, now I understand! </p>

<p>Hi, I have a Pentax 645NII and picked up an adapter for my Pentax 67 lenses. I was wondering what the "cropping factor" would be for the SMC Pentax 67 lenses when used on the 645. My gut feeling is that it would be something like (6x7) / (6x4.5) = 1.56 but I'm not sure if that is the right way to approach the question. <br>

<br>

Hans</p>

<p>Good point Douglas, I notice them going for around £25-£35 and it might be a good idea to pick up one of those. I guess the 90mm (and maybe 165mm) focal length lenses would be the obvious choices to be used reversed? I'm asking as some of my Pentax 67 lenses have different filter sizes.</p>

<p>I just found this article, I think it explains it: <a href="http://photonaturalist.net/how-to-focus-closer-when-using-teleconverters/">http://photonaturalist.net/how-to-focus-closer-when-using-teleconverters/</a></p>

<p>Have a look at this article to get some tips on how to get sharper images: <a href="http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/">http://photonaturalist.net/7-tips-for-getting-sharper-photographs/</a><br>

I would like to add that DSLR images do need sharpening during processing, especially if you shoot RAW. </p>

<p>For me Pentax 67II I picked up a cheap teleconverter and some tubes. I have used tubes before on my Pentax 645NII but never in combination with a teleconverter and I would like to explore how to use tubes in combination with a teleconverter.<br>

My gut feeling is that the teleconverter goes on the camera, then the tubes and finally the lens instead of the tubes directly on the camera, then the teleconverter and then the lens. Is this right?</p>

<p>Believeinfilm.com is of course home of the popular film photography <a href="https://twitter.com/search?q=%23believeinfilm&src=typd">#believeinfilm</a> twitter hashtag.<br>

Let me add this link to another interesting site regarding film photography: <a href="http://filmshooterscollective.com/film-photography-blog/">http://filmshooterscollective.com/film-photography-blog/</a></p>

<p>Tri-X in HC-110 dilution H (1:63) worked fine for me: I used 11 minutes for a film exposed at EI 400 in that dilution and was happy with the results.</p>

<p>I think it is scratches and some residue of the calcium from the water used.<br /> I had similar issues with calcium deposits when I first started developing again and I solved it by using distilled or de-ionized water (whichever I can get the cheapest) for the last wash followed to a few drops of Photo-flo in some new distilled/de-ionized water.</p>

<p>Do the limitations of using older flash units on DSLRs (high trigger voltage damaging camera) also apply to the Pentax 645NII and Pentax 67II cameras? I'm usually overly cautious and haven't tried it, but maybe I'm just too cautious and maybe it is perfectly fine with these cameras.</p>

<p>I do ask as I just bought a Lastolite 3m p-TTL cord for my Pentax cameras which has an additional hot-shoe mount on the top of the part that connects to the camera hot-shoe, allowing me a 2nd flash. In other words, the old flash would not be connected directly to the hot-shoe of the camera.</p>