hoshisato

<p>Thanks Helge!</p>

<p>Setting out this weekend with the aim to shoot some Fuji Acros 100 to develop in Caffenol. I have just got all the ingredients together, this is my first attempt at Caffenol developmental (I developed plenty of films in Rodinal and HC-110). Question: should I expose the Acros at EI 100 or EI 200? It is quite gloomy here in Luxembourg this weekend with lots of rain. Thanks for your input.</p>

<p>I used the code for my books, worked like a charm, thanks Blurb + our own Photo.net! :-)</p>

<p>I haven't seen mention of this book here and assume that others are also interested in experimenting with Caffenol. I have yet to experiment with coffee based developers but was amazed by the results these people got. The free <a href="http://www.caffenol.org/2012/11/27/the-caffenol-cookbook-bible/">online book</a> does include details about the films, EI and recipes used. </p>

<p>My vote would go for Fuji Acros 100, I used to shoot lots of ADOX CHS film but that has sadly gone.</p>

<p>I use PtGUI myself for all my 360s with great results and they have a free trial version available for download: http://www.ptgui.com/download.html </p>

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<p>I had similar issues and now I use distilled or de-ionized water (whichever is the cheapest) for my last two washes and the problem went away. </p>

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<p>Thanks Robert, that's exactly what I've been doing. I still don't know what happened, I'll have a closer look at the negatives with a magnifying glass to see what is really on them.</p>

<p>I am using the US concentrate and I use 500ml of developer in my Paterson Super System 4 Developing Tank for a 120 roll film. As I said, I used dilution E (1+47) which is 500/48 = 10.4ml. I measure in a 10ml syringe. I have used this dilution for the many Fuji Acros rolls I developed so I am sure it was just a bit over 10ml that I measured. I have a mark on my syringe for 10.4ml just so that I can keep it consistent. <br /> I usually use this page to get my dilutions: <a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/">http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</a></p>

<p>Thanks everybody! You are absolutely right on the subject of judging film on prints instead of scans but unfortunately I don't have a dark room anymore and use a change bag for film development these days.</p>

<p>Larry, is that the dilution and time for Tri-X shot at EI 400?</p>

<p>I am checking out Kodak Tri-X which I never really used before. I want to use it as a replacement for Fuji Neopan 400 which I have used before with good results. Other than that, I get pretty good results with ADOX 25, Fuji Acros and all the Ilford films.</p>

<p>Yesterday I shot a roll of Tri-X at EI 400 and, as it was rather overcast and rainy, I expected the film to come out rather flat but it came out with way too much contrast and hardly any details in the shadows in almost all negatives. I developed in HC-110 dilution E for 6.5 minutes and used two inversion every 30 seconds as agitation which I believe is pretty standard for Tri-X at EI 400. <br /> I used standard metering on my Pentax 645NII and I'm sure that if I had shot Fuji Acros or Ilford film, I would have had a much larger tonal range in the negatives and less contrast. <br /> Is this a film that most people pull to keep the contrast down? Next time I will bring down the development time but will switch to dilution H as I don't like development times less than 6 minutes. Any other suggestions to help me get richer negatives from this film?</p>

<p>Cheers,</p>

<p>Hans</p><div></div>

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<p>I don't think it is replacement for a web gallery but it is certainly indispensable if you are a professional photographer and would like to show off your work to future customers.<br /> <br /> A twitter account can be very useful too if you do photo walks, classes, etc. i.e. need to keep a group of people informed. Many use twitter with the appropriate hashtags to generate traffic to their website of Facebook posts.<br /> <br /> And while we at it, Google+ hasn't really taken off but it does seem to have hit the right note for photographers somehow and it is certainly easier to get exposure on Google+ with your photos than on Facebook.</p>

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<p>I use LR/Mogrify2 within Lightroom when exporting the file, it does the frame, text and the red watermark for me as in this photo: <a href="http://monochrome.me.uk/blog/p/1286">http://monochrome.me.uk/blog/p/1286</a></p>

<p>I don't have any, but I've always been led to believe that the larger Gorillapods are stable enough to carry a DSLR and zoom lens and are still very light. </p>

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