wayne_f1

<p>Is that slowdown still true if High ISO Noise Reduction is turned off?</p>

<p>Digital cameras have anti-aliasing filters on them. Aliasing is a problem creating artifacts (false data, like moire, etc) due to insufficient sampling resolution. AA filters slightly blur away the highest lens image resolution that would cause aliasing problems (moire, etc). Then the camera sensor resolution can deal with the detail remaining, without causing aliasing problems.<br /> <br />If your camera has an AA filter, then you are in no danger of the sensor exceeding what lenses can do. The AA filter is there for a purpose (of insufficient resolution).<br /> And even if it did exceed, sampling resolution too high is never a problem. Resolution is a good thing.</p> <p>If your camera (with at least 24 megapixels) has removed the AA filter, then congratulations, the camera has finally hit the absolute Minimum resolution to not need it (in most situations ... some situations of excess detail can still be a problem.)</p> <p>But there is a minimum resolution ... the absolute minimum required of digital sampling, which is a relatively crude level, and more resolution than the Nyquist 2x minimum (more than 2x is called over sampling) is a better image, better than the crudest image. We are not there yet however. Relax, and enjoy your megapixels. :) A sample of the concept of oversampling improvements is shown at http://www.scantips.com/lights/reslimit.html</p>

<p>More White Lightings or similar sound like the best answer. But sync is no issue, simple optical slaves work really well in the studio. The White Lightnings already include them and possibly the Novatron pack does also? Slave trigger is very commonly included, but simple and inexpensive to add.</p>

<p>I don't see any use for a boom with an umbrella?</p> <p>If a speedlight, just the umbrella mount (with a cold shoe).<br /> See http://www.scantips.com/lights/umbrellas2.html</p> <p>If a studio flash, nothing, it already mounts directly on the light stand on its own, and holds the umbrella itself.</p>

<p>Metering is both an art and a skill. There is much more to it then just pushing a button.</p> <p>Probably if you repeat the same metering, you likely get different results, unless your skill is higher.<br /> <br />Metering largely depends on the area that the meter sees, what scene it is reading. Cameras have different metering modes, like Matrix, Center Weighted, and Spot. Spot especially is extremely different, not for beginners.</p> <p>Camera meters are reflected meters, we aim them at the subject, and it sees the light reflected from the subject. Reflected meters are very dependent on the subjects colors. The white dress reflects a lot of light, and reads too high. The black dress reflects little light, and reads too low. This is what photographers are for, to sort it out. Meters and camera are just dumb computers, they know nothing about recognizing the scene. Humans are smarter, they see, they know, they have experience to know what it means.</p> <p>Incident meters are very different, we aim them away from the subject, at the camera. Do not affected by the subjects colors. But Incident meters use used<strong> at the subjects position</strong>, to see the light actually on the subject, and specifically are NOT used at the camera. We have to understand use of the tools.</p> <p>I suggest seeing http://www.scantips.com/lights/metering.html (3 pages there).</p>

<p>It is just unreal requirements.</p> <p>DOF calculator, http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html</p> <p>FX sensor, 14 mm, f/9, 28cm focus</p> <p>Depth of field is 20 cm in front, 44 cm behind. </p> <p>Your trees are greatly more than 44 cm distance. Use f/16, and learn about hyperfocal distance (shown at DOF link). </p> <p> </p>

<p>FV Lock is on the second page there. Next button at bottom, and also a couple of links on first page. Or specifically at http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl2.html#FV</p> <p>The camera meter meters the preflash, and computes a final power level for the following exposure. Yes, if the preflash metered very weak, the final flash would use more power. If the requirement exceeded the capability of the flash power, then the Ready LED (ON THE FLASH UNIT) would blink three times rapidly immediately after the shot, to advise that maximum power was used (true of hot shoe TTL Nikon flash too, but not most third party flashes).</p> <p>The flash unit setting menu can signal this warning with beeping too, good for remotes. It's good to know, it means that more flash compensation cannot help that case. If at maximum power, we need more ISO, wider aperture, or shorter distance.</p>

<p>1. Yes, TTL is always metered. Whether hot shoe or commander, the camera requests the TTL flash to fire a weak preflash, which the camera meters, and then sets the appropriate power level in the TTL flash.. This TTL preflash happens when we push the shutter button, but so close in time to the final flash we don't notice there was a preflash. Flash Compensation will modify that metered level if necessary. The preflash and commander signal flashing can cause subjects to blink, which our picture probably captures. The FV Lock feature overcomes this, see the previous link about it all (second page).</p> <p>2. No, if using commander, the commander menu is used instead (all flash controls are on the camera if Commander is used), and the TTL or Manual menu of the flash is not selected or enabled.</p> <p>3 No, hot shoe or commander, flash compensation is for TTL. It never can affect a manual flash. A manual flash is manual, it honors the power level you set for it (in the Commander menu if in use). We "compensate" a manual flash by changing its power level.</p>

<p>No, not that way.<br> <br />When using the Commander, ALL flash settings are in the Camera (mostly in the Commander). Not on the flash then.<br> <br />All you can set at the flash is Remote mode, and channel and group. All else is at the camera.</p> <p>The TTL compensation at the flash is for hot shoe TTL. IT DOES NOT APPLY to commander use, one reason is the flash is in Remote mode, Not even in TTL mode. You choose TTL mode in the Commander menu.<br> <br /><br />You set TTL or Manual flash mode in the commander menu. And any manual power level is there too. TTL level is metered, but you can set TTL compensation in the commander menu, or the standard camera Flash Compensation works too (these compensations will all add if done in multiple places).<br> <br />Maybe see http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl.html for more about using Commander.</p>

<p>If it is this f/2.8 35-70mm lens http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-35-70mm-Digital-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00005LEOD<br> then it says a 62mm filter or lens cap.</p>

<p>To adjust TTL flash in Commander...<br> <br />You can adjust in Commander menu, Group A or B TTL to be say -1 EV.. . We control lighting ratio that way. Best lighting results will be if two flashes are about a stop different.</p> <p>But for just a general flash exposure change, you can simply use the regular camera Flash Compensation, which will affect each and every TTL flash, including the Commander. Or Exposure Compensation also will, but it will also affect ambient exposure.</p> <p>If you use Manual flash mode in the Commander, then the flash levels are manual, and you do have to adjust the power level in the Commander group directly.</p>

<p>I think this is just about not knowing what raw is, and isn't.<br /> <br />Raw is not a setting, it is a philosophy. The camera settings like White Balance and color profile are NOT in the raw data. Raw is raw, like raw meat, unprocessed. We process it by applying that type of settings in raw later, after we can see it, and be smarter about what it needs, and can judge how it helps, or if something else is better.</p> <p>We can apply similar default actions in raw (like the default actions in the camera), but if we're going to care, we need to pay attention and care to do it right.</p> <p>See http://www.scantips.com/lights/shootraw.html</p>

<p>Yes, sure, of course exposure (consisting of ISO and shutter speed and depth of field and focus and flash) affects raw files. Otherwise, things like White Balance or Picture Control do not. One point of raw is to not have to undo bad automatic settings. :) It is adjusted better by us after we can see what it actually needs. If we might want our own choice, we have to turn Auto modes off.</p> <p>Qualification: All such settings are recorded in the Exif, but do not affect the raw file data. The Nikon raw software can read the Exif and apply these settings to the raw files it processes, but most other raw software does not, with exception of white balance being optional in some cases. My own strong opinion is that we can choose this better ourself, later, after we see what the issue is.</p>

<p>The difference can be said to be "Auto" mode, vs A, S, P, or M modes.</p> <p>Scene modes are an "Auto" mode. In Auto mode (or the Scene modes), the camera chooses and sets everything, auto white balance, auto ISO, and also the Picture mode, for the various Scene modes. And if deemed needed, the internal flash pops up automatically in most of them. The user only aims and presses the shutter. Most of this does not affect raw file data (raw is raw), but certainly it does affect JPG.</p> <p>In contrast, in camera modes A, S, P, or M, the automation is Not on by default. If you want do auto WB or auto ISO or some particular Picture Control, you can chose it and turn them on yourself, but it is not required. You can open or shut the internal flash door to use it or not, as you desire. But this automation is not required in A, S, P, or M. You can turn that stuff off if Not in Auto mode. You cannot turn it off in the Auto modes.</p>

<p>They do add to a total flash compensation, each in its amount. The result and the Exif will show the total.</p> <p>On Nikons, the Exposure Compensation also adds to the Flash compensation (and EC also affects the ambient individually).<br /> For example, if you wanted -1 EV ambient, but were also using flash, you might set -1 EV EC, and then +1 EV FC to bring the flash back up to zero. Pros and cons either way, but this method allows changing the total exposure of both in one adjustment.</p>

<p>Interesting graphs. What flash is that? My Nikon SB-800 HSS full power level certainly does not default to normal speedlight mode, but HSS is down about 2.3 stops from speedlight full power. I have another Chinese Aperlite YH-700 that does HSS well, but a Neewer NW-985 was a HSS joke.</p> <p>I assume your "less than half power" does mean less than half of the already reduced power mode that HSS flashes must use at HSS full power? But your full power comment confuses me.</p> <p>Your worst case graph shows a drop of average power to be slight, compares very favorably with the one full stop of a big slow flash at t.5 time. Average power shown about 3 units high, drops 0.5 unit instead of 1.5 units. And HSS does last full travel time.</p> <p>And again, both losses are a less drastic effect out in bright sun where HSS would be used. At least no dark bands.</p>

<p>A big slow light "should work" in the proverbial sense that some may imagine it's good enough, but a flash pulse is not a constant light. There is an early quick peak, and then it starts trailing off to nothing for quite awhile, relatively. As the shutter slit travels across the frame, the light is decreasing. Even if t.5 matches up, that's still a one stop loss across the frame, not insignificant. And slow would seem to rule out the Einstein as best choice for this.<br> <br />But if used in sunlight, the sunlight does light the rest of the frame, and can sort of hide the light falloff, at least there is no dark band. And sunlight is the only imaginable place HSS could ever be a goal, we would be an idiot to use it indoors when a speedlight can run circles around it. But a big slow flash is simply not the same thing as HSS, which is in fact a constant light for the shutter travel duration (but at a reduced flash level).<br> <br />Some speedlights do actual HSS (with the proper matching camera), but power demands might require ganging a few them. Joe McNally has touted HSS, but not everyone seems to realize he puts three or four SB-910 in one umbrella.</p>

<p>I'd guess 5V would work, NiMH is not higher (but NiMH can deliver current). The AA cells in a speedlight see at least 6 or 7 amps of current when recycling for a couple of seconds, which I doubt this USB device could deliver, so recycle would be quite slow.</p> <p>If insisting on pursuing this for any practical effect, then instead use a 6V sealed lead acid battery. Still have to come up with connectors (and a charger), but it should work great, and fast, for very many shots. Here is one popular finished product: http://www.aljacobs.com/products-services-ordering/the-black-box-specification.html</p>

<p>I think trying to power the flash from these is a bad idea. Just putting batteries in the flash would be a greatly better idea. You can't do that for a cell phone, but batteries work really great for a flash unit. Just carry a few spare batteries.</p> <p>The flash batteries power the electronics, and also run an internal power converter that steps the voltage up to 300+ volts, used to charge the flash capacitor (relatively slowly, during a second or two). Then when the flash fires, all the power comes from the flash capacitor instantly, not from the battery. The battery just recharges the capacitor.</p> <p>You also need some battery compartment shaped connectors too. I vote for it being not a good idea.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Minimum ISO is normal for a D300 if a flash is recognized, but there are three generations of Nikon iTTL Auto ISO and flash, so it is hard to explain.</p> <p>"Auto ISO with flash" variations:</p> <p>1. <a href="http://nikonites.com/products/dslr-3/d300-110/" target="_blank">D300</a> and all older iTTL models dated up through D300.<br /> 2. newer cameras, in between 1 and 3, starting with D300S.<br /> 3. and most recent very few models, about <a href="http://nikonites.com/products/dslr-3/d800-227/" target="_blank">D800</a> on.</p> <p>Type 1. Never boosts Auto ISO if flash was recognized present, being used. Auto ISO stayed at Minimum with flash. Except for Commander, it might boost ISO <strong>ONLY IF</strong> the TTL flash power was otherwise insufficient. This works best, IMO, how flash ought to be (i.e., Auto ISO off).</p> <p>Type 2. Always boosted Auto ISO fully according to the ambient metering, regardless if flash is used or not, so flash indoors was always highest ISO. This makes flash be fill flash, and incandescent light is orange. Bad plan. Turn Auto ISO off.</p> <p>Type 3. Nikon thankfully reconsidered this - Newest models (with flash indoors) only boost Auto ISO by two stops (like ISO 100 to ISO 400) for external flash, but <strong>still always fully boosts ISO for internal flash, like Type 2</strong>. ISO 400 is normally enough for bounce.</p> <p>Nikon does not specify this Auto ISO behavior with flash, but Exif of a simple test picture with indoor TTL flash will show the Auto ISO it obviously used, so you can recognize which type camera you have.</p> <p>Type 2 - Using Auto ISO to boost the ambient with flash makes the orange incandescent light become visible, adds ISO noise, and converts the TTL BL flash system to be fill flash instead of main flash. Bad plan.</p> <p>If an older flash with an actual TTL mode vs TTL BL mode menu, actual TTL mode will overexpose it if the ambient is fully metered (the sum of fully metered ambient and fully metered TTL is greater than the ambient meters, requiring compensation, which is normal). TTL BL mode (default if no TTL/TTL BL menu) generally not bad about overexpose.</p> <p>The internal flash is tiny, and at any distance more than a few feet, might need additional ISO. Shouldn't need maximum ISO. Type 2 and 3 do the ISO thing.</p> <p>It seems stupid to use Auto ISO with a manual flash. A manual flash cannot react to Auto ISO. So if the camera recognizes a manual flash is present, then it will lock Auto ISO at the Minimum value, in any model, 1, 2, or 3.<br /> <br /> Try flash without Auto ISO. Maybe use up to ISO 400 for the little internal flash if needed. ISO 400 is normally enough for bounce too.</p>

<p>HSS is a very different flash mode, the flash itself has to know how to do the continuous burst. And it is dedicated, that is, it has to speak the same language as the camera controlling it.<br> <br /> The Einstein does NOT do HSS.<br /> <br />However, pocket wizard does what they call HyperSync, which can somewhat simulate HSS with many flash units (that do not do HSS). The flash is NOT continuous however, nor HSS, so there are limits.</p>

<p>The SB-900 has a "low battery" LCD symbol that shows up (manual page C-27) when the batteries are dead and it quits working. Not seen at other times. It is not status, other than "dead". Any type of actual meaningful battery status meter is simply not possible for AA NiMH batteries.</p> <p>Equipment that does have a meter for AA batteries (like a portable MP3 player or radio for example) are just for dry cell batteries, like alkaline. Their voltage steadily drops with use, and the meter is just a simple volt meter, 1.5V full charge, and about 1.0V is dead.</p> <p>But NiMH batteries have more nearly a constant voltage over their charge life, and so any such meter for alkalines will not read NiMBH right. The alkaline meter would show maybe 2/3 charge (when NiMH is fully charged) and would stay there over the charge life, and then suddenly quit when dead. NiMH is superior in units like flashes, but no meaningful meter is possible. Recycle time might become a bit longer when nearly dead. It will not hurt anything to recharge NiMH early and often.<br /> <br />Lithium Ion batteries (like in most cameras or cell phones today) are different.. These have a constant voltage too, but the battery contains a chip that monitors current flow in and out (called coulomb counter chips), and they can report meaningful battery status. But NiMH AA cells are too inexpensive to contain such chips.</p>

<p>I'm not sure the question is answerable, one is analog and one is digital, but we do see the rear LCD larger than the viewfinder. My notion is we see the viewfinder more clear, with more detail.</p> <p>The D800 viewfinder is showing a 36x24mm image area, at 0.7x magnification (smaller). So that must compute about 1.0 x 0.67 inch size. But it is an analog image. It is high resolution, lens resolution, lots and lots more than we can see. The sensor calls it 7360x4912 pixels, and we are just barely daring to remove the anti-aliasing filter (D810), which can only be called the Minimum sampling resolution. (AA filters have always been used because our sensors did not have the minimum 2x sampling resolution to prevent false aliasing we call moire).</p> <p>The LCD is about 2.5x1.87 inches. It shows 640x480 pixels (which x3 for the RGB components, is the 921K dots). So that is about 640 pixels / 2.5 inches = 256 dpi resolution, which is good, near the 300 dpi the eye is said to be able to see (at let's say the same close viewing distance).</p> <p>They don't seem that dissimilar of size, but the viewing distances are different. So we do see the LCD larger, and at fair resolution, but not quite as good as the analog image the lens projects (which is the analog lens image, no sampling). My own notion is we can see better detail in the viewfinder (until we zoom the rear LCD view).</p> <p>So to match the viewfinder lens image, we would need more pixels in the LCD than we have... But it would still be digitally sampled, and as such, 2x sampling resolution is the Minimum required to reproduce it without aliasing (moire). And that's minimum, greater oversampling would be a better image.</p> <p> </p>

<p>No, the TTL metering automatically sets the TTL flash to the correct power level for the current camera aperture and ISO.<br> The only time the flash is concerned with knowing aperture and ISO is for the GN or non-TTL A modes (when the flash has to compute exposure). Otherwise, in Manual flash or TTL flash modes, the flash is told (by user or by camera) what power level to use.</p>

<p>The SB-28 is older technology, the D3100 is newer technology.<br /> SB-28 TTL mode will not work on the D3100, because the camera does the newer digital iTTL. To do TTL, you will need a newer current iTTL model flash. Times change.<br /> <br /> You can use the SB-28 in its other modes, Manual flash, or its non-TTL A mode (SB-28 manual page 42).<br /> <br /> But TTL mode cannot work with the digital camera. I'm sure that is what your references told you too. You need a current iTTL flash.</p> <p>In Repeating mode, your shutter speed has to be at least as long as the several flashes. If using 4 flash at 4 Hz, that is one second, so your shutter speed has to be at least one second.</p>