wayne_f1

<p>Tenth stops are a good plan for studio flash, we know fill ratio in our heads then. <br> You can set the meter to read tenth stops, which Sekonic calls Full stops (plus the tenths).<br> See manual, page 44, custom setting 3, Full Stops.</p>

<p>>>Say I have two SB-800s in remote groups A and B, placed on either side of the subject. I set flash compensation to 0 for both groups on the command flash. Does this mean both SB-800s will put out light at the same rate, so that I can adjust how much illumination falls on the subject from either side by moving one flash closer to the subject and another further away? Or does this mean regardless of how far each flash is from the subject, the I-TTL system will try to make the illumination falling on the subject from either flash group be equal?</p> <p>The latter. Don't bother trying to move the lights, that will be ignored. Speaking TTL with Commander, it does not matter how near or far one flash is, or if one is direct and one is bounced, or one is a big flash and one is a small flash, or whatever - the system meters the TTL preflashes individually, and (if possible) sets each power level to what is needed to give the same light on the subject from each group.</p> <p>Normally portraits don't want both flashes the same, that would be a light too flat, uninteresting, too dull. However that idea is the equal base allowing us to compensation one (the fill light) to be say -1 EV to establish the known lighting ratio. This is the point. So set the fill light group to -1 EV compensation instead (in the first place), and the power level will be set up to do exactly that.</p> <p>We can of course just throw two lights out there, the system does the same thing, but "either side of the camera" is not the best general plan for lighting. Normally the idea of portrait lighting is that the main light is placed high and wide from the subjects point of view, like 45 degrees high and wide, off camera so to speak, creating intentional shadows (on the face). Then the fill light is placed frontally, very near the lens axis (back near the lens so the lens can see around its umbrella), to be a frontal light. Frontal specifically means that it lights the shadows that the wide and high main light intentionally made, the same shadows that the lens sees, without making its own second set of shadows. So as compared to "either side of camera", the main is higher and wider (from subject), and the fill is closer and more central, at the camera.</p> <p>The fill should be turned down about -1 EV, to partially fill and smooth the shadows, but still leaving smooth gradient tonal shading to show shape and curves of subject, and be pleasing lighting. The lighting ratio is very important. So the good plan is to set the Fill light group to about -1 EV compensation, so the system sets it to meter -1 EV at the subject. Some samples at http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl.html</p>

<p>>>So a flash can be i-TTL compatible while not supporting CLS or remote triggering at all. If the advertising doesn't mention CLS, then chances are it doesn't support it.</p> <p>Not good advice as worded.<br /> <br />It is a very common mistake for people to equate the term CLS (Creative Lighting System) with the commander wireless feature which is actually named AWL (Advanced Wireless Lighting). We have just come to know that when people say CLS, they probably mean AWL (commander).<br /> <br />But in fact, CLS is the name of Nikon's general flash communication system between flash and body, and that CLS communication does (can) include the features of iTTL, AWL, FV Lock, HSS, AF assist, etc, etc. Any iTTL flash is necessarily CLS in order to communicate and operate, but it might not offer every CLS feature, like AWL.</p> <p>See these references:<br /> SB-800 manual, CLS, page 5<br /> SB-600 manual, CLS, page 5<br /> or http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/9520/~/nikon-creative-lighting-system-%28cls%29</p> <p>So the third party flash feature of compatibility with Nikon DSLR is the term iTTL. It either is, or it isn't.<br /><br /><br /> Manual flashes are not body brand specific, and only need the one center hot shoe pin or PC sync pin (or some form of slave) to work with any camera. But if they are going to show communication of f/stop or ISO numbers, they can add CLS to do it, and then are Nikon brand specific.</p> <p> </p>

<p>>>Since an slr with a mirror can't meter a flash because the mirror bouncing light to the metering sensor must flip out of the way for an exposure along with the mirror bouncing to the pentaprism and the flash must necessarily take place during exposure, does the absence of a mirror on a mirrorless camera enable it to take a flash reading?</p> <p>Yes.<br> Lots of ideas were expressed in this thread. Mine are a little different than some.</p> <p>I am speaking Nikon, but film SLR metered TTL flash in real time with a sensor in the floor of the lens cavity, aimed up at the film and metering light reflected from the film surface (when mirror was up and the shutter was open). Film TTL always fired at full level, but was simply quenched off when its light was seen as sufficient.</p> <p>Digital could not do that. The sensor possibly reflects (guessing more specular though, like a mirror, less dispersed), but the anti-aliasing filter messed it up anyway. So the first Nikon digital DSLR (D1 era) simply literally painted a gray spot on the front of the shutter curtain, to reflect the light like film did, and a preflash was required, to be metered after mirror rose, but before shutter opened (named D-TTL).</p> <p>Then much better, iTTL starting with D2 and D70 ten years ago, the flash sensor was instead moved up into the viewfinder (requiring mirror to be down), and so a preflash was still metered (and then the final iTTL flash level is loaded with the power increase calculated from the preflash). I think this is NOT the same specific sensor as ambient uses. The Ambient sensor(s) meter Matrix or Center or Spot patterns, but the flash sensor always meters a central area. At any rate, the iTTL flash sensor is in the viewfinder above the mirror, and it meters a preflash.</p> <p>Yes sure, iTTL flash is metered in Live View mode, which is essentially same as mirrorless when mirror is up. Very different concept of course, image pixels analyzed instead of a dedicated sensor seeing the actual light. Preflash and iTTL still work. One difference though, FV Lock does not trigger a preflash in Live View mode.</p>

<p>I've been curious how the old high sync voltage flashes were built? Modern stuff is just a resistor between the port pin and a 5V source. Open circuit sees the 5v, but when the camera shorts the pin to ground, it's zero volts of course. No current or damage due to the protective resistor, but the zero volt level triggers a semiconductor trigger circuit. SCR probably. The cameras today use a SCR to short the pin. The isolation is a bit like a relay in that regard. :)<br /> <br />Old flash stuff though... making this part up, but before modern electronics, grounding that pin must complete the actual circuit to produce current in the flash tube coil that ignites the tube?</p>

<p>No experience here with damage, but it was probably a real hazard, simply due to the availability of the Wein Safe Sync shoe protectors - they must help something. :) The old flashes with high sync voltage rarely exceeded 200 volts (however some say early Vivitars could be 250 volts). The Safe Sync $50 price surely exceeds the value of any flash that needed it (the money could be better invested).</p> <p>But today, sync voltage in anything modern is about 5 volts. No Nikon speedight flash (gong back 30 or 35 years) was ever more than about 5 volts sync voltage. </p> <p>But as one example, all of the Nikon DSLR manuals say the cameras are rated to 250 volts. You'd think anything would be rated similarly, but as another example, a few of the earlier Canon EOS manuals actually said DO NOT USE ANYTHING HIGHER THAN 6 VOLTS. The ISO spec for hot shoes allows 45 volts, so I don't know how real or precise that was - it was followed by saying Use Only Canon Flashes. :)</p>

<p>>>HSS may be more convenient than adding an ND filter or having to actually <em>think</em> (heaven forbid!) about what the flash is doing, but that's it's only advantage.</p> <p>The only advantage of HSS is that it bypasses sync speed requirements, to allow fill flash in bright son at equivalent exposures like 1/6400 second at f/2.8. </p> <p>The disadvantage of HSS is that the power is low (maybe 20% at most) and the range is short. And it is no longer a speedlight. HSS flash is continuous light, with no motion stopping capability. Use of HSS would seem ridiculous indoors.</p>

<p>Per your second article, the camera does have to talk to the flash, so HSS mode cannot be set if on a manual radio or optical trigger, but manual flash works fine remotely via the Nikon Commander, and of course, if on the hot shoe.</p>

<p>I am thinking that must be a wrong conclusion. I am Nikon, and don't know Canon at all, but your link to the 580 Canon QuickGuide (first page, bottom of left column) says HSS is <strong>"only in TTL or Manual mode"</strong>. I don't know about your other linked article, but Nikon HSS certainly works in TTL or Manual. Why wouldn't it? Manual is just a flash level. But I really don't know what Canon might do.</p> <p>The easiest thing is to simply just try it. My bet is it works fine in Manual. Because a flash is just a flash, and TTL or Manual are both just a power level setting, regardless of who set it how. Then in Manual mode, change shutter speed, aperture, and ISO <strong>in any Equivalent Exposure way</strong>, and you will still have the SAME exposure, from sunlight, and from HSS. You will in TTL too, Equivalent or not, but that's TTL, and not about HSS.<br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>Bright Sun Equivalents</strong> <br />Sunny 16, ISO 200</p> <p>1/400 second at f/11 <br />1/800 second at f/8 <br />1/1600 second at f/5.6 <br />1/3200 second at f/4 <br />1/6400 second at f/2.8</p> <p > </p> <p >1/200 second at f/16 should be in this list, but was omitted because 1/200 second would not enable FP flash mode (very different modes).</p> <p>When changing things in TTL mode, the TTL metering will keep it the same, by metering for different power levels for the same goal, but again, that is not about HSS. But HSS is simply one steady continuous light, so of course Equivalent Exposures work.</p> <p>Equivalence is what allows f/2.8 to be used in sunshine. Works for HSS flash too.</p> <p>Other than short range, HSS makes fill flash in sunlight easy (and allows f/2.8 if we crave it). Just set the Manual flash level or TTL compensation for ratio (if Balanced flash mode has not already done it), and then any equivalent exposure that exposes the ambient also exposes the flash the same as expected. Just like any two continuous light sources.<br> <br />HSS is really one single flash, a long one from many repeating small triggers to keep it alive (flash tube ionized) for shutter duration (like even a few seconds). It is Continuous light for the duration of the shutter, with maximum of about 20% power to be able to stay alive. It is NOT many small flashes, it's one flash with many triggers. The trigger repeat rate is in the order of 70,000 Hz, last I heard. That is rather continuous, and they all run together with hardly a ripple. :) The eye will not detect any problem. :)</p> <p>Experiment a bit, using it a little will make it come clear. No one explains it like it should be explained. It is Continuous light for the shutter duration, so it acts like continuous light, and all that implies (primarily equivalent exposures). As far as the shutter can see and know or care, the flash might have been on for hours or days. In the early days, all we heard about it was that faster shutter speed drastically reduced its light, like that was a terrible thing, unheard of in flashes. :) We heard some stupid theories, but which of course is exactly how sunlight or incandescent light works too. We ought to be used to it. :) Because it is simple Continuous light, and it acts like Continuous light (one characteristic is no sync concerns). I have a HSS page at http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics2b.html if interested.</p> <p>So with no sync requirement for continuous light, then we merely open aperture to compensate shutter speed, which is called Equivalent Exposure (same as for sunshine). Speaking Nikon, but the flash manual quotes one Guide Number for HSS, probably at 1/500 second (which is Manual flash of course). Nikon never mentions this, but the point that we should know is that the same Guide number then works for any Equivalent Exposure (any shutter speed at corresponding aperture, same as like sunshine). The big deal is that Continuous light offers Equivalent Exposures (and no sync). Faster shutter speeds simply compensate by opening the aperture, same as we learned back on Day One. Just try it, it becomes very clear then.</p> <p>Try running shutter speed or aperture or ISO up and down, and TTL handles it. It will affect Manual HSS flash, UNLESS they are Equivalent Exposure changes, in which case, then no exposure change in HSS.</p>

<p>"Nonsense. The effect of biasing the exposure serves only one purpose: changing the shutterspeed. That changes the ratio of the ambient light to flash."</p> <p>But there is more to it than that. Are you evaluating TTL or HSS?</p> <p>Your words are terse, and it's difficult to be sure I grasp all the implied meaning, but the words that describe the situation are not said...<br> <br />I think you overlook that changing shutter speed affects both HSS and ambient in the same degree. I think you may try to show it does not, but that would be wrong. There is no difference. Because both are continuous. To the shutter, HSS is pretty much like a desk lamp. But TTL is the complication that desk lamps don't have.</p> <p>I think you are saying you are changing Exposure Compensation, but Not Flash Compensation. FWIW, on Canons, Exposure Comp only affects ambient (but on Nikons, it affects both ambient and flash, but latest models have a choice switch now). <br> And the cameras have two metering systems, for ambient and for TTL flash. Ambient is metered to establish missing factors of shutter, aperture and Auto ISO, and flash preflash is metered to establish flash power level for the situation it finds itself in.<br> <br />So EC of -1 or -2 EV instructed to knock the ambient metering goal down, and it did it. Ambient got darker.<br> But the TTL flash metering goal was Not changed (no compensation), so it continued as before, maintaining same goal as before. And it did that too. However now the shutter speed was faster (set by ambient EC), so it had to use more power to do the same exposure goal as before, because HSS is affected by shutter speed exactly like continuous ambient. Bless its little heart, it tries to do what is requested.</p> <p>HSS varies with shutter speed too, but your TTL is what is telling the flash to compensate itself, to not vary. You are testing TTL, not HSS. TTL is why the regular flash came out same exposure as the much weaker HSS, and also why the shutter speed did not change HSS either. But due to faster shutter speed, HSS has to work a lot harder to do what TTL asks of it.</p> <p>TTL maintaining its goals is a confusion factor for inspecting how HSS works. You could try same thing at maybe 20 feet, and get very different results (because HSS could not comply with the greater TTL requests). Manual flash mode makes it much more obvious to see, no confusion about TTL running the show. But the only answer is about continuous and about equivalent exposures, and that both ambient and HSS are affected in the same degree by shutter speed. Twice as fast is half the light.</p>

<p>TTL (HSS or speedlight mode) will meter and adapt to changes in settings (put out more power) to keep metered exposure constant, but HSS can be manual flash too (which won't). But being continuous, the big difference of HSS from speedlights is that TTL or manual, "equivalent exposures" are equivalent, for both continuous ambient or continuous HSS flash. This is what easily allows HSS to do like 1/6400 second at f/2.8 in sunlight. Any equivalent is equivalent.</p>

<p>1/1600 at 1/2 power, but at f/1.8, and ISO or distance was not mentioned. So we don't know a lot.<br /> <br /> Not sure what you are expecting, but I think the flash is special only because of the battery... its type and capacity and recycle speed. Sounds good, but that in itself will not affect HSS exposure.</p> <p>Guide Number 58 (meters) is surely at maximum zoom, and so it is a large speedlight (like many others are large... Nikon SB-800 is same GN, they just don't advertise it only at the 105mm zoom maximum value). And the price is right, but these are regular flash GN, not about HSS.</p> <p>We need a user manual with a GN chart, but ..</p> <p>Other HSS units typically (roughly) have a HSS GN about 1/3 of regular mode GN, specified at 1/500 second.</p> <p>For HSS, any equivalent exposure would have the same GN.</p> <p>Zoom 24mm GN is generally about half of 105mm zoom GN.</p> <p>With these very vague generalizations, 58/2 = GN 29/95 (meters/feet) at 24mm.<br /> 1/3 of that for HSS is about GN 10/32 (meters/feet).</p> <p>So GN 32 at 6 feet is f/5.3 at 1/500 second, ISO 100, 24mm, direct flash.</p> <p>Or one equivalent exposure is f/2.6 at 1/2000 second (two stops is fstop / 2, shutter denominator x 4)<br /> Would not bet on my precision, but possibly halfway ballpark, and it sounds doable if close.</p> <p>But aperture, shutter speed, or ISO will all affect ambient the same as HSS flash. In camera P mode in sunlight, we can spin the equivalent combinations up or down without affecting either ambient or HSS flash exposure.</p> <p>This is because both are continuous light. As far as the shutter is concerned, the HSS light was there when it opened, and was there when it closed. To the shutter, it is same as daylight was always there...continuous. HSS reacts very differently than regular speedlight mode.</p>

<p>I think you're generally correct, but are overlooking that the Fuji 100s is a big difference. It's special shutter can sync regular flash at (I think) 1/4000 second. The DSLR cannot.<br /> <br /> So that Fuji is not doing HSS at all, it is using regular flash mode. DSLR cannot.<br /> <br /> <strong>Regular speedlight flash</strong> - amazingly fast duration at lower power levels (called speedlights), and so flash exposure is not affected by shutter speed (flash is faster than the shutter). And full power is available.</p> <p><br /> <strong>HSS flash</strong> - runs about 20% power anyway, and is continuous light (like the sun), so fast shutter speeds simply decimate its exposure (like the sun). You can open the aperture (equivalent exposure), but that helps the ambient just as much.<br /> <br /> You want to use fast shutter to reduce the ambient, but fast shutter also reduces the continuous HSS flash BY <strong>THE SAME AMOUNT</strong>. No gain for your purpose, unless you can turn the HSS power up (get a few HSS flashes ganged together (8 equal flashes is 3 stops more). HSS is NOT at all like regular flash. Continuous light is continuous light.<br /> <br /> The plan could work with regular flash (except for fastest shutter speed) because shutter speed does NOT reduce the regular flash exposure - because the speedlight flash is typically faster than the shutter.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I'm speaking Nikon, and assuming most is the same.</p> <p>I think you will be towards higher power (higher for HSS, which is low). A few feet is fairly far for HSS. :) Fill flash only needs about 1/4 the power of a main flash (to be one stop down), and in bright sun, HSS has about ten feet range (as fill). Joe McNally has promoted HSS for fill in sunlight, but he uses about four larger flashes ganged in tandem. :)</p> <p>HSS is continuous light, like sunlight is continuous light. HSS acts more like a desk lamp, it does not act like flash. The thing to know about continuous is that Equivalent Exposure works again, both for ambient light and for HSS flash. The manual probably gives Guide Number for 1/500 second HSS, but again, the thing to know is that (for HSS) the same GN is good for any equivalent exposure. High shutter speed greatly reduces both ambient and HSS exposure, but for both, we open aperture to compensate (equivalent exposures).<br> But I doubt long life of flashtube will be a concern.</p>

<p>The D70 was the first iTTL DX Nikon camera.<br /> The D1 and the D100 were both DX cameras (sensors 23.7 x 15.6 mm)<br> http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d1/<br> http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d100/spec.htm<br> <br /> The D800 was the first Nikon Full frame camera, 2012.</p>

<p>I don't know, but would doubt HSS has much effect on the flash tube life.<br> It does have to fire for the full shutter speed duration instead of a much shorter brief pulse, but it operates at most at about 20% power level to be able to do that. </p>

<p>If your question is if Auto FP HSS works with Commander and Remotes, yes. You don't need any extra hardware.<br> <br />However, the internal flash cannot do Auto FP HSS, so you MUST disable its contribution in the Commander menu (Internal group Mode set to be ---).<br> Internal flash can still be Commander, and the external remote can be HSS (if they are capable units. The SB-700 is.</p> <p>More about using Auto FP HSS at http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics2b.html</p>

<p>Yes, you should mention it. :)</p> <p>The D90 and the SB-900 can do HSS Auto FP flash.<br> <br />The radio trigger cannot. HSS requires communication between camera and flash, and the radio trigger is too simple to do it. No communication, simply just a trigger.</p> <p>Put the flash on the camera hotshoe, or use the Nikon Commander and Remote mode, and you will see HSS work.</p> <p>You might not like the HSS reduced power level. See http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics2b.html</p>

<p>Mike, if you subsequently "Save" the image with Adobe later, it strips off many of the Exif entries. You will want to look in your original file, out of the camera.</p> <p>Adobe Bridge (file manager part of Photoshop) has a preferences menu you can specify more to be omitted (many default to omit). But Adobe never saves the Manufacturer Notes section (Makers Notes).<br> <br />My previous Exif list above has 277 entries. Simply opening and saving that file in Photoshop results in only 192 entries of Exif (as seen by ExifTool - Photoshop reports far fewer).</p> <p>(Save For Web strips 100% of them, except maybe Copyright)</p>

<p>Oops! :) Yes, I have both, and grabbed the wrong one. D300 is old enough that many other Exif tools can get it right enough too.<br> D800, not so, we need an Exif tool that gets updated.</p> <p>And yes, Focus Distance is in there. However, Nikon Focus Distance for zoom lenses can be pretty wrong.</p> <p>I don't know what Subject Distance Range means?</p>

<p>The D3100 camera does not have the commander, so modes designed for the commander are not involved (Yongnuo YN565EX, Nikon SB-700, etc do have such modes in the flash). You could add a commander (for example, Nikon SU-800), but your camera would still not have FV Lock, which is really quite necessary to prevent pictures of people blinking. Inanimate subjects would be no issue. Commander is not great outdoors in sun.</p> <p>The YN565EX also has the S1 slave mode, where it is triggered in sync, in manual flash mode by any other manual flash, which could be the D3100 internal flash set to very low manual power level. Works really well indoors.</p> <p>Outdoors, a standard solution is to add a radio trigger (transmitter in camera hot shoe, receiver on flash foot). The Yongnuo RF-603 II is quite inexpensive ($33 at Amazon for the pair of units). This is also manual flash mode.</p> <p>See http://www.scantips.com/lights/yongnuo565.html for more on both.</p>

<p>Time for a better Exif tool was the exact right answer. Nikon modifies their Exif format (the Manufacturers data part, where the good stuff is), and most of the existing Exif tools are years too old.</p> <p>The best (and frequently updated one) is Exiftool. I see mine (a few months old) is five versions out of date now. :) </p> <p>http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/</p> <p>This is a command line tool. However, towards that page bottom, section Related Utilities, is ExifToolGUI</p> <p>http://u88.n24.queensu.ca/~bogdan/</p> <p>Put it in the same folder, start it, and it becomes wonderful in Windows.</p> <p>It shows this for a D800 (almost more than is imaginable)</p> <p>Including subject distance, however Nikon zoom lens subject distance is frequently wrong, causing D-lens errors for TTL BL direct flash ( http://www.scantips.com/lights/ttlbl-d.html ) We need a menu to turn that stuff off. :)</p> <p>---- ExifTool ----<br />ExifTool Version Number : 9.69<br />---- File ----<br />File Name : DSF_4611.JPG<br />Directory : .<br />File Size : 2.8 MB<br />File Modification Date/Time : 2014:10:19 15:29:44-05:00<br />File Access Date/Time : 2014:10:19 16:26:44-05:00<br />File Creation Date/Time : 2014:10:19 16:26:44-05:00<br />File Permissions : rw-rw-rw-<br />File Type : JPEG<br />MIME Type : image/jpeg<br />Exif Byte Order : Big-endian (Motorola, MM)<br />Image Width : 4288<br />Image Height 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Reduction : On<br />VR Mode : Normal<br />Image Authentication : Off<br />Active D-Lighting : Off<br />Picture Control Version : 0100<br />Picture Control Name : Standard<br />Picture Control Base : Standard<br />Picture Control Adjust : Default Settings<br />Picture Control Quick Adjust : Normal<br />Sharpness : 3<br />Contrast : Normal<br />Brightness : Normal<br />Saturation : Normal<br />Hue Adjustment : None<br />Filter Effect : n/a<br />Toning Effect : n/a<br />Toning Saturation : n/a<br />Timezone : -06:00<br />Daylight Savings : Yes<br />Date Display Format : Y/M/D<br />ISO : 200<br />ISO Expansion : Off<br />ISO2 : 200<br />ISO Expansion 2 : Off<br />Lens Type : G VR<br />Lens : 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6<br />Flash Mode : Did Not Fire<br />Shooting Mode : Single-Frame<br />Lens F Stops : 5.33<br />Shot Info Version : 0210<br />Firmware Version : 1.10B<br />ISO2 : 200<br />Shutter Count : 34723<br />AF Fine Tune Adj : 0<br />Custom Settings Bank : A<br />Custom Settings All Default : No<br />AF-C Priority Selection : Focus<br />AF-S Priority Selection : Focus<br />AF Point Selection : 11 Points<br />Dynamic AF Area : 21 Points<br />Focus Tracking Lock On : Short<br />AF Activation : Shutter/AF-On<br />Focus Point Wrap : No Wrap<br />AF Point Illumination : Auto<br />AF Assist : Off<br />AF-On For MB-D10 : AF-On<br />ISO Step Size : 1/3 EV<br />Exposure Control Step Size : 1/3 EV<br />Exposure Comp Step Size : 1/3 EV<br />Easy Exposure Compensation : Off<br />Center Weighted Area Size : 8 mm<br />Fine Tune Opt Center Weighted : 0<br />Fine Tune Opt Matrix Metering : 0<br />Fine Tune Opt Spot Metering : 0<br />Multi Selector Shoot Mode : Select Center Focus Point<br />Multi Selector Playback Mode : Thumbnail On/Off<br />Initial Zoom Setting : Low Magnification<br />Multi Selector : Do Nothing<br />Exposure Delay Mode : Off<br />CL Mode Shooting Speed : 4 fps<br />Max Continuous Release : 100<br />Reverse Indicators : + 0 -<br />File Number Sequence : On<br />Battery Order : Camera Battery First<br />MB-D10 Batteries : LR6 (AA alkaline)<br />Beep : Low<br />Shooting Info Display : Auto<br />Grid Display : On<br />Viewfinder Warning : On<br />Func Button : FV Lock<br />Func Button Plus Dials : None<br />Preview Button : Preview<br />Preview Button Plus Dials : None<br />AE Lock Button : AE/AF Lock<br />AE Lock Button Plus Dials : None<br />Command Dials Reverse Rotation : No<br />Command Dials Change Main Sub : Off<br />Command Dials Aperture Setting : Sub-command Dial<br />Command Dials Menu And Playback : Off<br />LCD Illumination : Off<br />Photo Info Playback : Info Up-down, Playback Left-right<br />Shutter Release Button AE-L : On<br />Release Button To Use Dial : No<br />Self Timer Time : 2 s<br />Monitor Off Time : 10 s<br />Flash Sync Speed : 1/250 s<br />Flash Shutter Speed : 1/60 s<br />Auto Bracket Set : AE & Flash<br />Auto Bracket Mode M : Flash/Speed<br />Auto Bracket Order : 0,-,+<br />Modeling Flash : Off<br />No Memory Card : Release Locked<br />Metering Time : 6 s<br />Internal Flash : TTL<br />Noise Reduction : Off<br />WB GRBG Levels : 256 467 315 256<br />Lens Data Version : 0203<br />Exit Pupil Position : 107.8 mm<br />AF Aperture : 4.9<br />Focus Position : 0x22<br />Focus Distance : 1.68 m<br />Focal Length : 42.4 mm<br />Lens ID Number : 153<br />Lens F Stops : 5.33<br />Min Focal Length : 16.3 mm<br />Max Focal Length : 84.8 mm<br />Max Aperture At Min Focal : 3.6<br />Max Aperture At Max Focal : 5.7<br />MCU Version : 155<br />Effective Max Aperture : 4.9<br />Retouch History : None<br />Image Data Size : 2904507<br />Shutter Count : 34723<br />Flash Info Version : 0103<br />Flash Source : None<br />External Flash Firmware : n/a<br />External Flash Flags : (none)<br />Flash Commander Mode : Off<br />Flash Control Mode : Off<br />Flash Compensation : 0<br />Flash GN Distance : 0<br />Flash Color Filter : None<br />Flash Group A Control Mode : Off<br />Flash Group B Control Mode : Off<br />Flash Group C Control Mode : Off<br />Flash Group A Compensation : 0<br />Flash Group B Compensation : 0<br />Flash Group C Compensation : 0<br />Multi Exposure Version : 0100<br />Multi Exposure Mode : Off<br />Multi Exposure Shots : 0<br />Multi Exposure Auto Gain : Off<br />High ISO Noise Reduction : Off<br />Power Up Time : 2014:10:19 15:29:20<br />AF Info 2 Version : 0100<br />Contrast Detect AF : Off<br />AF Area Mode : Dynamic Area (21 points)<br />Phase Detect AF : On (51-point)<br />Primary AF Point : E4<br />AF Points Used : E4<br />Contrast Detect AF In Focus : No<br />File Info Version : 0100<br />Directory Number : 101<br />File Number : 4611<br />AF Fine Tune : Off<br />AF Fine Tune Index : n/a<br />AF Fine Tune Adj : 0<br />---- Composite ----<br />Aperture : 4.8<br />Auto Focus : On<br />Blue Balance : 1.230469<br />Image Size : 4288x2848<br />Lens ID : AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkor 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED<br />Lens : 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6 G VR<br />Preview Image : (Binary data 27251 bytes, use -b option to extract)<br />Red Balance : 1.824219<br />Scale Factor To 35 mm Equivalent: 1.5<br />Shutter Speed : 0.6<br />Create Date : 2014:10:19 15:29:43.60<br />Date/Time Original : 2014:10:19 15:29:43.60<br />Modify Date : 2014:10:19 15:29:43.60<br />Thumbnail Image : (Binary data 11417 bytes, use -b option to extract)<br />Circle Of Confusion : 0.020 mm<br />Depth Of Field : 0.30 m (1.54 - 1.84)<br />Field Of View : 31.1 deg (0.94 m)<br />Focal Length : 42.0 mm (35 mm equivalent: 63.0 mm)<br />Hyperfocal Distance : 18.35 m<br />Light Value : 4.2<br /><br /></p>

<p>>>I have a Nikon D90, D5100, and a D40X. Which Nikon Flash would work best with the 3 cameras I have.</p> <p><br /> The SB-300, SB-400, SB-500 would be a bad choice for the D90 and D40X.</p> <p>Because those simple flashes have no LCD menu, and must use the camera menu for internal flash instead. They cannot work as a flash without that camera menu. The D90 and D40X are older, never heard of this situation, and cannot control these simplest flashes.</p> <p>Any SB-600, SB-700, SB-800, SB-900, SB-910 will work fine on all cameras you mention. They are complete flashes, even able to work standalone.</p> <p>If cost is a concern, look at this one : http://www.scantips.com/lights/yongnuo565.html</p> <p>It will also work with the Commander, but only the D90 has a commander (of those three).</p>

<p>>>with my F100, and D3, a nikon sb800 will detect the iso and f stop, and tell me how many feet the flash will reach, either in ttl, or manual output mode.<br /> with the F5, the sb800 doesn't do this...</p> <p>The SB-800 is backwards compatible with film TTL, or with D-TTL or iTTL digital. It can do whatever any Nikon camera can do. Only the SB-600 can also do this.</p> <p>But the F5 is not CLS compatible. CLS is the later Nikon communication between camera and flash. So the CLS flash cannot see the F5 aperture, ISO, zoom, etc. But it can do TTL or Manual flash with the F5. It works fine, it just cannot see these camera values.</p>

<p>>>From the D5300 PDF book is says.. UHS-1 compliant... same as the even more recent D810 PDF<br> >>Guess I've found the answer! The camera is now 'old' <a id="itxthook2" href="/nikon-camera-forum/00cjcg" rel="nofollow">tech<img id="itxthook2icon" src="http://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png" alt="" /></a> and is the bottleneck!</p> <p>Yeah, but you can check actual write speed.</p> <p>24 megapixel Raw NEF files are probably near 24 MB (there are options, but you can check and determine it). D5200 manual says 24MB and buffer size of 8.</p> <p>So fire off a continuous burst of five of them, and time the memory card access light from On to Off again, four or five seconds. 24MB x 5 / seconds is MB/second rate it can write, approximately.</p> <p>A USB 3.0 card reader will be much faster, with greater benefits. It should be the one to support your UHS rate.</p>