leicaglow

My first TLR was a YashicaMat 124G with dubious lens quality, but I loved the format

and layout... until I wore it out a couple years later. If I had the money, I would buy

one in a heartbeat. On a side note, one of my favorite books on the Rolleiflex is of

Sammy Davis Jrs book of photographs. He loved to shoot with his Rolleiflex. Ive considered buying a used one because of the simple layout and sharp lens, but havent felt it gives me anything more than a 500cm with 80mm film. The book it totally worth adding to your library. But then I guess he could afford one.

I put an order in to restock my fridge, and about had a stroke over the bill. I am

starting to reassess the wisdom of continuing to feed the Hasselblad. Too bad. I

would like to think it was due to silver prices, and that the price would come down

someday, but not likely.

When I read the title, I thought about some of the films you mentioned. I think they

are all good choices. I think you could do some neat effects with the high speed film,

and maybe even stand develop some of it to really bring out the grain. I think you are

set for film and you cant go wrong with any of them. The only thing I would add is

some slower film, like Acros, to do some fast lens play, or capturing movement with

longer exposures.

I would want a speed dial to adjust the exposure based on the shooting condition,

assuming a converted camera works the same as film. For example an IR image in

shade is going to have a much longer exposure, compared to film, than a sunny, IR-

filled outdoor scene.

Another inexpensive option is using a cheap chinese IR filter, like those found on

ebay, and using them on a regular digital camera. Those exposures can be minutes,

depending on the density of the filter. I get descent results on my old D200 Nikon,

and it was reputed to be not so good for IR.

Just approach it as a documentary photog, and tell them pretty much just what you

wrote.... that you feel it important to capture this history before it is gone, and that

you will ask gamers for permission before shooting them. If they are as interested in

this legacy as you, I would think they would go for it.

I'm always entertained by Hurley. If you know what he looks like, you have to believe he had a rough night before he shot

this video. Lol

But he is very generous in sharing his knowledge. If you know nothing about doing portrait or modeling work, I dont think

there is a faster way to get up to speed on technique than to go through his course. I watched it with a friend in his

studio, and realized how well he articulates what he does. I hope to go through his live workshop some day.

Dan, thanks for the correction. You are right, of course. The one convertible i had,

you swapped groups of the same size.

Yes, I would not jump on an M8, but thats me. I would also tend to lean toward

selling the R4. I really like the M5, especially with larger hands, and the speed ring

that extends beyond the bidy is magnificent, like the Canon EF. When I biught my

first new Leica, i picked the M4-2 over the M5 and always wondered if I made the

right choice considering my first lens was amnew f/1 Noctilux. I think the M5 would

have been a better choice. The R4 is nice, but I would like a R8 or R9 Anthracyte.

It could be. On a convertible lens, the thread on the front and back groups are the

same size. You could just try swapping the lens groups and see what happens after

refocusing.

I never had difficulty focusing on my m4-2s and m4-p. Though it isnt a small lens. I

ended up using my f/2.8 version a lot, because of its tiny size. A lens some people

dont like. The f/2 is pretty crisp and a great portrait lens. I dont have experience with

later version f/2s, but the second series is the one I owned, and it is a great lens.

Jeff, I think you have the answer, and Didier's info is good to know. Have any

coolscan serviced now, whether it needs it or not.

I wonder if it is an enlarging lens. I used the lens on a Nikon PB6 bellows for a long

time and it was quite sharp. I would imagine you could use it on a compur shutter

with a 39mm lens mount.

Hi Ale, I cant speak to which platform to go with, but results from both are great. If I

was going to pop for either, I would go to an industry show or at least make an

appointment to work with a pro shop to compare the two. I would lean toward the

Hasselblad system for a number of reasons, the fact it seems most defacto being

one of them.

Hold strong. Go shoot something and enjoy what you have. And they do/did have an

Apo in 150mm. I have its big brother, 210 Apo, and its little cousin, the 150mm

Claron G.

Point it at the light source if you want the light at the scene to be neutral grey. Point

it at the camera if you want to average all the light sources falling on the scene.

There is a big difference. I never point it at the light source unless looking for light

ratios. If you are shooting in sunlight and pointing the meter at the sun, for example,

you are placing the sun at neutral grey, which is about 3 to 4 stops under exposed,

depending on the film.

Another common problem with these old timers is the foam at the top, near the

pentaprism, that acts as a mirror dampener, deteriorates and starts to get sticky.

You could try buying replacement foam, maybe at kyphoto.com???

It depends entirely how you market your photography. I shoot large and medium

format film, do between 20 to 35 portraits per year, printing 20x20in sized prints, and

offer one and only one image... the one I like the best. I know this is not the norm any

longer, but the new consumer-based portrait work is absurd. There is as much

absurdity in my post, as there is truth.

Confirming, it is not a steal, but if it is in good shape, it is probably fair. If it is rough,

you could be at least a few hundred dollars into a cla. I always factor into the price of

used equipment, two to three hundred dollars to bring the camera up to a reliable

spec. The M3 is a workhorse of a camera. I dont have personal experience with that lens though.

Great camera, and if that is a 105mm f/2.5 lens, that is one of the best Nikon ever

made.

A baby graphic, maybe. I shoot my 4x5 crown with polaroid-format/fuji often, with a

mask. Depending on budget, an old Linhof or Arca Swiss would be nice.