leicaglow

Great question, for which I do not know the answer, but I think 20 images of a single

theme might he daunting to get through. I like 2 or 3 groups of projects, however.

Thats bad news. If he is in the US, and not delivering in 30 days via us mail over

state lines, I believe he can be fined 25k per incident by the FTC.

For provenance, write down anything your grandfather said about using it, where he

got it, and put it with the camera so more generations will know him.

B&w is particularly displeasing. They print it by combining three colors, not black

and gray. I had a number of books reprinted because the color registration was off.

Definitely use the high quality paper and service, it looks nice.

<p>I always shot with second tier cameras like the FM and FE. But now that better cameras like the F4s, F5, F100, and F6 are more affordable, I was thinking of getting one to use with fast lenses, wide open, on bright, outdoor days.</p>

<p>My original question was: did Nikon ever make a mechanical camera with 1/8000th of a second mechanical shutter, like a newer FM? After taking my old FM out for a spin the other day, I forgot how much I enjoyed the feel of shooting with a spring loaded shutter mechanism (I have other cameras, like the Leica and old Zeiss', but they don't really have the same mechanical feel as a SLR).</p>

<p>Upon listing some of the cameras in my first sentence, maybe my question should be: which of these top shelf Nikons had the best shutter mechanism, with 1/8000 second, and most mechanical/least electronic, if any? Thanks for your help. I could look it up, but reading about them doesn't compare to pros, like you, that have actually handled them.</p>

It looks a little like an Olympus, but the size of maybe a Kodak

Howard said it perfectly. I think you might be disappointed at the difference between

a d3 and d7000.

Its a grain, right? Very nice. Looks like a frankenstein of Voigt, Zeiss, Altix.

I cant speak for the ra4 process, since I havent done any since Kodak made

consumer kits, but I have used the Tetenal, and it is very good. I have heard good

things about the Arista as well, but not used it. I didnt know anyone made a

powdered kit. Do they?

Hi John, I JUST got my my FS2719U set up with my newer XP machine last night,

and fought for nearly 2 days to get it to work. I am not certain how I did it. Anyway, I

tend to scan as-is, and use PhotoShop to auto white balance the image, then tweak

from there. This works about 60 percent of the time, otherwise I have to tweak by

hand.

 

It is also important to calibrate your monitor when working with color balance.

Very nice. Beautiful processing and treatment.

It is an antique and a corroded wreck. I doubt you could sell it for anything.

Beautiful camera, Tony... both actually. My dad had a SRT101, and I admired its build

quality, in comparison to my Mamiya Sekor 1000 dtl. Bit it seemed top heavy toward

the prism. I think I would rather have your Spotmatic though.

Happy New Year Paul. At least we can be joyful that out Leica company is strong,

and in good hands.

My first voyage into medium format photography was a new 124G. It changed my

life and my view of things. I hope it has as much importance to you. Very nice.

Starvy, I know it can be difficult to get going while staying on a budget, but I think

you could do a lot by using some fill. You can affordably do this with simple white

board stock from a dollar store. Some of the shadows were a little too dark, and

there were some hot spots on highlights. What you really need is a Lumisphere disk

to allow for reflective and diffusion light control.

 

One tip I can give you is figure out what you want to convey with the model, then use more subtle poses, and work with the model to shift parts of the body and not the whole body. Your portfolio looks like she is practically dancing, when I think you would do well to be in command of the shoot, and tune in to what you need from the model, and direct her. Just my 2 centavos.

Mike, that is a great lens. Owning multiple Nikkor versions, I think I would give the

nod to the Tamron.

Hi Bob, I believe it depends on which version, but 2.5x for the Hasselblad chimney

and around 4x for the WLF. I still use the Chimney with adjustable diopter as my

main focusing aid.

<p>I've always found it easier to load film on reels by not clipping them to the springy clip in the center. Instead, keep the beginning of the reel's center, straight up before turning off the light. Then curl the film side to side, putting it down to the center of the reel (imagining putting it onto the first coil in the center on both sides, then hold the film straight out of the reel by about a foot. Then start bending the film from the cannister and letting it engage from the center out, without applying any pressure at all. Just let it naturally click in between each of the coils as it moves its way outward to the end of the roll.</p>

No offense, but this is what happens when we legalize Mary Jane. Dorito?

I am not usually so negative, but fleabay has become a dumping ground for old stuff

that doesnt work. Reuturn it, I guess.

If the shoot is important, I dont risk anything. Use everything at spec.

On the paperwork, I would simply note: "Model refused to provide date of birth."

It means what you see in the finder is smaller than what shows up on film. In other

words, if you frame the shot very tightly, it will not be as tight on the final film. But 5

percent is pretty inconsequential for most shots.9

I cant speak to the Zuiko, but one of the reasons I ended up shooting Nikon instead

of my F1 and EFs, back in the day, was because of the 14mm. Mine was soft, I felt. I

never knew if it was out of alignment, or whatever, but a major part of my business

was architectural work, and I found the 15mm Nikkor to be a better lens.