Dustin McAmera

There's a patent by Canon for a zoom catadioptric lens, in 1985: https://worldwide.espacenet.com/patent/search?q=pn%3DJPS61221718A The 'original document' view shows you images of the original document, which is in Japanese of course. 'Description' shows a rather imperfect system translation* of the Japanese summary. There are diagrams as well, of course. From this, it seems to me that the lens they describe zooms by moving the lens-group closest to the film. However, the diagrams show a thing with many more elements than the Soligor; no reason to assme it's related. * includes 'The zooming is performed by moving the group toward the object side and at least one of the fourth lens group and the fifth lens group at the lens at. ' and also 'The third lens group is composed of two lenses having convex surfaces on both lens surfaces and a lens with refractive power of dead fish toward the concave surface on the object side,' I don't mean to mock: it's better English than my Japanese...

Drifting off topic, I have a sheet film tank (the Combi-Plan one) with a frame to hold six sheets, that came with a 'guide' attachment which is supposed to help you load the film. I have never used it because it seems to just pass the difficulty up the line. Instead of having to find the right slot in the frame in the dark, now you have to find the right slot in the guide, in the dark, and also avoid dislodging the guide from the frame. I admit I haven't given it the chance to prove me wrong - it might be a great help - but it seemed to me that having one less object in the black bag was going to help more. I like the tank.

The lens from a Ciro-Flex should be an 85mm f/3.5 Wollensak Velostigmat, I think, in a Rapax shutter (an Alphax in earlier models) with speeds up to 1/400 second. It's a shame it's not still attached to the Ciro-flex. It's a lens of three glass elements; that's nothing to write home about, but perfectly good if the glass isn't scratched, and the shutter is working. At that age, I doubt it's coated, is it (a colored sheen on the front of the glass)? People likely to want to buy this are mostly going to be people hoping to replace a damaged lens on a Ciro-Flex, or on a medium-format folding camera. I wouldn't expect it to sell for very much, to be honest. You can search at Ebay for completed sales, and see what prices people actually paid, rather than what people asked for.. Or, since you've registered here, you could list it in the classifieds: see here https://www.photo.net/forums/forum/50-classified/ -read the 'How to use this forum' post first. Maybe list it for best-offer? Less people will see a classified here than at Ebay; but it's a private sale, so no fees to pay. Don't forget postage; you may want to say 'mainland US only' or something. 85mm is very slightly long for the 2¼-inch-square format; that means there's a chance this might just cover 2¼x3¼-inch. If so, people with small Graflex press cameras might be interested. I tried out a 75mm three-element lens on mine (an f/2.9 Trioplan off a broken 4.5x6cm folding camera); it doesn't cover (the image fades out in the corners: https://www.flickr.com/photos/century_graphic/175401090/ ).

I can't see a reason why they wouldn't. Coating only affects what happens at the air/glass surface; coating reduces the fraction of the light that is reflected back from the front surface, and increases what goes through into the lens. Coating on the rear surface does the same job; increases what comes cleanly out of the glass into the air, and reduces what gets reflected back. This reduces flare arising from that reflected light, if it eventually makes its way out to the film. Diffraction is purely an effect of the sharp edge of the iris: light adjacent to that edge gets bent as it passes it, disrupting the image. Diffraction happens at any aperture setting, but at small apertures, the edge makes up a bigger fraction of the total area of the aperture so it shows more. As far as I can see, those two effects shouldn't have a bearing on each other; but I bet someone is typing right now to tell me I'm wrong! However, I guess it may be that if you have an old lens with lots of aberrations and no coating, it may be that you don't spot the diffraction among those other effects.

I thought I remembered this; but the one I remembered was this very similar channel: I hate these people. They have a little book of provocative titles like 'Stop focusing: start creating!', designed to annoy you enough that you will watch a few seconds, score them a view and push a few cents their way. That is all those channels are for. They are Piers Morgan or Katie Hopkins, only with a camera; until they decide to do the 'Cameras are ruining your photography' vid. When they haven't got a provocation to hand, it's 'This will make your photos awesome!'; and of course, there are some 'Buy this featured product; it changed my photograph forever!' videos.

Sorry - from a dreadful batch of Efke R100 127 film where the emulsion was pre-stuck to its backing paper in every roll. Morro Bay, CA.

I don't have this camera, but this is a control on the front; looks a bit like the Leica slow-speed dial, but it's the rewind release. I believe 'A' is Advance; sets the advance mechanism to advance the film and cock the shutter as normal. 'D' is to allow Double exposure (so winding the lever cocks the shutter but doesn't advance the film) and 'R' disengages the advance for Rewind. Is the film itself under tension? That might stop the mechanism moving freely. You might have to get the film out in a black bag. Picture of the camera here: http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Aires_35-V

I think that's an APS-C camera, so is 100mm going to be a bit long? I'd get extension tubes. I wouldn't pay Canon's price for their own brand. For the price of one Canon tube you can get a set of three from a brand like Kenko: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/375102-REG/Kenko_AEXTUBEDGC_Auto_Extension_Tube_Set.html There is a nice Canon 35mm macro lens with a built-in lamp, the EF-S35mm f/2.8 Macro IS STM: https://global.canon/en/c-museum/product/ef460.html but I can't see it for sale anywhere. There's an EF-M version, but that's no good for your camera.

'Another view of my ceiling, now with a spider.'

When life gives you lemons, Marjorie... She should start her own threads: Sickbed Saturday, Self-isolation Sunday, Weakly weekly, ... and others I deleted for reasons of good taste.🤢

I can only spare you about half a dharmachakra:

No it doesn't.

Heaven Knows I'm Miserable Now.

There's no marker on the thread's own page: but in the page for an individal forum (like https://www.photo.net/forums/forum/27-mirrorless-digital-cameras/ ), threads you have posted in have a pale green star by the title (and a darker green spot marks new threads you haven't read) In the Activity views (either 'Unread Content' or 'All Activity') there should also be a pale green star for threads you've posted in.

I've had a shutter that wouldn't cock; that is, I could push the cocking lever across, but it wouldn't latch. That was a Japanese shutter, and I know I sorted it out quite easily but don't remember clearly; I think I may just have cleaned it (inside the shutter body, with lighter fuel as a solvent; not too much, on a cotton bud. Some people take the lens elements out and wash the whole shutter timing mechanism; I wouldn't do that unless the thing is in the trash otherwise). If you're unlucky your shutter may have a worn part. What shutter is it? By the way, if the lens is a Nettar, I think it's unlikely your camera is a 521; that would be an Ikonta, and it's lens would be a Novar, or Tessar etc, but not a Nettar (according to McKeown's book). I think what you have may be a Nettar (the camera as well as the lens), model 515/16.

Just a 'Goldeck': Pronto is the name of the shutter. It should use 120 film, I think. See here: http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Goldeck

Canon Sureshot Classic 120, APX400, Rodinal, a horse.

Yes. At any time along the roll, you can reassure yourself by checking that the rewind knob turns as you wind on; and yet I've still got it wrong sometimes.

The OP is using a Zeiss Ikon Iknota 522/24, with knob advance. My impression is that the spool tension is what advances the film on this. In another thread, I gave a link to a manual. If you read that, it says that once you have the film attached to the take-up spool, you should adjust the frame counter to the rhombus-mark (like <> ), then close the back, and wind on to '1'. It should stop you at '1'. ..but the OP has already said he's not sure if the mechanism is working.

In the bright sun that Sunny 16 assumes, you could just do it: 1/400 at f/16 is equivalent to 1/200 at f/22; but you wouldn't want to use ISO 400 in bright sun. I wouldn't try to use Sunny 16 as your only guide. We don't only photograph in bright sunshine (it's not the most interesting light). Here in the UK, for most of the year we get a rather oblique sunlight, distinctly weaker than what people in (say) California call sunshine. So if we try to use Sunny 16 in our sunshine, we often underexpose. There are printed exposure guides - used to be on the inside of many film boxes. Give your calculator tool a go! It sounds a bit laborious to me, but hey - it's maths..

In normal daylight conditions, exposure for digital and film will be the same. You could certainly use the readings from your phone or any digital camera like a light meter. I have installed an app called Light Meter, by WBPhoto (my phone is Android - I suppose the same app is available for IPhone). It uses our phone's camera as a meter, and presents the results in a convenient way that doesn't need you to do calculations (convenient-ish - I preferred another app that I can't get any more). It has a few other features, mostly that I haven't used.

I found this also. Hans Kerensky is a contact at Camera-wiki and at Flickr. He has this album at Flickr showing some jobs he had to do on an Isolette. https://www.flickr.com/photos/29504544@N08/albums/72157625591888450 One of those jobs was removing and replacing old grease that had stuck the front two lens elements together (so the camera wouldn't focus). I wonder if due to this, or maybe due to someone trying to fix it, the middle element has been unscrewed a short way?

This is a post-War camera, and it's Zeiss, who made some of the best stuff. I'm not certain, but I'd be surprised if it doesn't have a good 'auto-stop' advance mechanism; that is; it won't let you wind too far. On the other hand, the frame-counter is part of the same mechanism.. Try it and see! I have a couple of cameras which should have auto-stop winding, but it's failed because the parts are worn inside. One of my cameras (it's a Voigtländer) I just have to spot the frame counter clicking forward, and stop winding. If I get that right, it spaces the frames right.