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dxphoto

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Posts posted by dxphoto

  1. So why not just quit making $5000 worth M8 body and let Panasoic do it for $1000? Leica can just keep making the lenses. I don't see the point of making or having an expensive body that the major technology in it only lasts 3 years. Sure 10mp is enough, as today a lot of people are happy with their 6mp's. But i am sure within 3 years there will be cheaper full frame sensors, better image processors, better anti-dust technology and etc. Does this new leica means leica is a reglion now? :)</br>

    I just don't see any point to make a hi-tech digtal products 'build-to-last'.

  2. Hello, I am new to flash photography. I have a G1 with a TLA140 flash. I

    figured out how to use the flash when it is set to TTL. But I don't know what

    is the setting for M on the flash unit. The G1 manual doesn't say anything

    about it. Is this not a option for G1? I have a Bessa R as well, I can use

    this flash with the R?

  3. Hi, sorry that I am starting a new thread regarding the same topic <a

    href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00H6Ub&tag=">Chromatic

    Aberrations of EF 24mm, because of digital?</a> I posted two days ago. <br><br>

     

    Here is the example <br><br>

    this is the original <br>

    <img src="http://www.bluecosmosstudio.com/share/temp/orginal2.jpg"><br><br>

     

    the 100% crop of the lower right corner.<br>

    <img src="http://www.bluecosmosstudio.com/share/temp/crop2.jpg"><br><br>

     

    Is it normal or I am just being too picky. <br><br>

    It is shot with an XT + 24mm f2.8 lens. f10, 1/25s (quite slow i know).

    Handheld. UV filter.<br><br>

     

    Thanks.<br><br>

  4. I recently purchased a brand new EF 24mm f2.8 lens for my XT. After I took a

    few test shots, I found noticable Chromatic Aberrations in almost all the stops.

    Is it normal? I know it is a cheap lense. Is it supposed to act like this?

    Or it is because I am using a digital camera? Thanks.

     

    (I have to fix it in PS RAW editor, by set the value for red/cyan fringe to -15)

  5. Before I saw both black and silver XTs, I had read some threads on other sites

    arguing about the goods/bads on both colors. I saw both finally. With my

    experience with 20D I felt the black finishing was not as great as it is on 20D.

    I understand one is plastic and one is alloy. But it is so obvious that even by

    looking at it you can tell the difference. Maybe I was looking at the store

    version so the matte finishing has worn out already? <br><br>

    Then I heard a lot of bad things about the silver version. Some reviews even

    call it disgusting. I happened to lay my hands on a new one finally. My first

    impression wass it was not as bad as those reviews claimed. At least I was

    disgusted by it's color. Some reviews say the silver is painted on. I didn't

    feel the same way. And it is dark silver not the shining silver. <br><br>

    My question is, is there anyone here has one and notices the "paint" came off

    after using it for a while? Thanks.

  6. This is because the so called ISO 3200 is achieved differently. Rather than other ISOs which are achieve by amplify the analog signals before the A/D conversion. The ISO3200 is done by simply double the ISO1600 binary data. Open the ISO file in binary mode and all the data would be zero ended. Use it only you have to. That is why it is in a custom function.
  7. I believe it is the lowest ISO setting. The sensor has only one speed. What happens in the camera is it take the picture in analog mode, then amplify the analog signal before the A/D conversion. The so called high ISO boost is done after the the A/D conversion by just multiplying the binary data by two (left shitf one bit). I would imagine the ISO 50 would be the one (native iso) since divide either A or D by 2 would mean quality loss.
  8. As I was changing the lense I first took a close look at the 28-105 usm II lens.

    And I found a bubble. It's quite noticalbe and it's on the edge of the light

    channel. I have been used it a lot on a 20D and I think because the factor i

    have never noticed the problem. I called Canon and they told me it's over a

    year (1 month over) now so it is out of the warrenty. How did they let this

    kind lens out of the factory to begin with? Any similar experience?

  9. Hi, it's 30% off the brand new item. I don't care the look of it. My concern is the screw on the front ring. (if you have one, look for "LENS MADE IN JAPAN". there should be a screw between LENS and MADE. That one on mine must have been unscrewed before). I don't know what that means.............. Any idea?
  10. Hi,<br/><br/>

    I just bought this lens used online. The seller said it was mint however it

    looked pretty old to me. Anyone recently bought new ones? Mine the serial

    number is 868XX. It was made in japan. I don't know if the new ones have

    much larger serier numbers and if they are still made in japan. <br/><br/>

     

    Also, I am not sure how to tell if the lens has been opened/serviced. There

    is a screw on the ring on the font looked like has been unmounted once. Does

    this matter? the focus ring is kinda loose. <br/><br/>

     

    Help please! <br/><br/>

     

    Thanks

  11. Hi Eugene, You have all the info in this digital market, haven't you. I am happy with xt in terms of the price, size, and the speed. 20D is a very cool camera and I got some really good shots, esp in high iso settings (that's also a strong point of XT) when I used it. the only thing I don't like XT is its small viewfinder, so I was wondering if there was going to be a better one...

    Thanks for the info.

  12. According to the last black and white photography magazine (UK

    version), the agfa chemicals are back into production. I checked

    with some US vendors and had no comfirmation. I am wondering if

    folks in uk or europe have any updates on this. Thanks.

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