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neil_grant

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Everything posted by neil_grant

  1. neil_grant
    <p>...I can't set it to anything lower than 800 ISO - they are all 'greyed out' in the menu. I get a dialog saying:<br> 'this operation is not available, gamma s log 3'<br> <br />Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?<br> thanks!</p>
  2. neil_grant
    <p>...I can see two contenders: Zeiss 16-70 f/4 or Sony 18-105 f/4. Camera is likely to be used to film an audience, as part of a 3-camera installation. Most likely on a video tripod having a large flat mounting platform. Also 4k, probably going down to 1920x1080, (so a degree of enlargement is possible in 'post'). The nature of filming might put a small premium on 'wide-open' performance and ability to focus in modest light.</p>
  3. neil_grant
    <p>is it removable? I want to put a 6 to 1 aspect ratio mask ontop of it.<br> thanks if you can help!</p>
  4. neil_grant
    I purchased the camera c/w lens. Haven't had much time to use it - but no obvious problems with the supplied lens. I have a Nikon F mount adaptor for it and the camera is so light I could contemplate taking it alongside a small film reflex and sharing some lenses between them.
  5. neil_grant
    <p>...reading the forums I get the impression excessive sample-to-sample variation. I also notice that this lens is virtually given away when purchased as kit with camera, but is much more expensive when bought separately.<br> Is this because the kit lenses are the 'lemons' and you just have to pay more for a 'better' one?</p>
  6. neil_grant
    For me, the biggest disappointment with the '645' system is the lack of close focusing with he majority of the lenses - I find myself reaching for the rather fiddly extension tubes almost immediately. The RB is so much easier in this respect. Weather permitting, I can 'see' some good photos from a busy roadside - but I daren't use the RB as there's a lot of traffic and some walking - I just need to keep concentrating more on safety than the camera.
  7. neil_grant
    The camera/lens combination is easily good enough for high quality 'stock' - 'found images' (though I would' like to use it for any controlled work). There's a big chip and no mirror - the lens just isn't that ambitious, much more is possible. Judging by geometry, the camera is correcting distortions as it goes along. It's 'clunky' and the power zoom annoys, but no complaints about the results.
  8. neil_grant
    I have the C versions of all the lenses you mention, (as well as some you don't, oh and an RB as well) All were 'used' but are very good for sharpness and contrast - none should disappoint. The 110 f/2.8 is a 'long' standard that you might like to consider. I don't have the zoom - and wouldn't want it. Simple lenses flare less and the negs print better more easily.
  9. neil_grant
    Can I have some suggestions please? Slightly wider and slightly longer, faster aperture. Not too bulky. The camera is quite capable as a walk-around, but I just want a bit more from it. Thanks.
  10. neil_grant
    <p>thanks - that's done it. The manual for the camera doesn't show it at all.</p>
  11. neil_grant
    <p>is there one? I can't find it. Thanks if you can help</p>
  12. neil_grant
    <p>Soon I'm likely to borrow one of these cameras (maybe a 6000) - and I'd like to use it with a Meyer-Optik 50mm Domiplan. I can see loads of 3rd party adaptors for this with a range of features, including helical focusing and even tilt. I thought all I needed was to be able to get infinity focus - but maybe these features are useful. Can anyone comment on these? Are any of these adaptors poor and to be avoided?</p> <p>thanks!</p>
  13. neil_grant
    <p>The C lenses are higher contrast than non-C, and hold that contrast better into the light.</p>
  14. neil_grant
    <p>Lower tempertures reduce activity of developer - so it takes longer to produce a given effect. If you drop temp much below 15C then activity can reduce drastically. The first dev in an E6 process is quite 'foggy' by design so as to produce clean highlights in the reversed image. I believe in a b/w process a little thiosulphate may be used to reduce the tendancy of 'reversals' to get too dense. Not sure why dev to completion should cause any special problem.</p>
  15. neil_grant
    <p>now it will latch - I did nothing. It fixed itself.</p>
  16. neil_grant
    <p>My D4 has developed a problem with it's XQD slot - the card won't latch when inserted. I'm using the 'door' to keep it in place. I think it's the camera causing this as the card latches correctly in an external reader. Is there anything I can do about this - or do I need to send to Nikon for repair?<br> <br />thanks!</p>
  17. neil_grant
    <p>thanks guys for all the info. I've been able to reset the 'outlying' SB 910 so it works the way I want.<br> Can't image why anyone would need the option of uneven increments. </p>
  18. neil_grant
    <p>I've noticed something odd and inconvenient on one of my SB 910 flashguns. The power output can be changed in 1/3 stop increments until it reaches half power - then the next push of 'the button' sends it straight to FULL. I've got two other SB 910 flasguns - but they don't do this. I get 1/3 stop increments all the way. Any ideas?<br> thanks!</p>
  19. neil_grant
    <p>I've used the menu settings on a D4 to select 'FP' mode - and used a single '910' in this way. It's a very power-hungry way of working (pause for recharges!!) so I was hoping I could use a number of '910s' slaved together to help matters. I've done this in 'normal' synch mode - with a master unit connected to the hot shoe with an SC 26 cable triggering a pair of slaves. I'm just not sure if I can do it this way in 'FP' mode. Is this what I need an SU 800 commander unit for??</p>
  20. neil_grant
    <p>"Not sure if you guys are joking, but of course you have the same size image circle using 6 x 8 horizontal as you do with 8 x 6 vertical-- about 10cm. The projected image doesn't know what orientation you have the back in. A true 8 x 8 camera would need a lens with a bigger image circle. Sorry to be a pedant."<br> <br />I find the lenses cover the 6x8 format - though with the 37mm fishyeye the 'petals' cause a little vignetting. I imagine the oversize body of the RB helps reduce camera flare.</p>
  21. neil_grant
    Henry, the RB is even bigger than you are inferring from the rotating back - with the right magazine it's possible to do 6x8 cm - so if anything it's actually an 8x8 camera! It's just a pity the viewfinder can't display the full field with one of these mags - it would be quite a sight. No doubt the original poster is familiar with the relatively shallow DOF associated with medium format.
  22. neil_grant
    <p>The RB camera is a real 'gentle-giant'. The mirror movement is barely perceptible. Hand held operation is a realistic propostion with wide angle and standard lenses. Less so with longer focal lengths as the extension away from film plane starts to shift the cameras C of G (and disturb balance). Remember that DOF will be shallower than from tiny (35mm) cameras. This lack of depth of field often decides the need for a tripod - or fast film.</p>
  23. neil_grant
    <p>I did thanks. My ealier post mentioning success doesn't seem to have 'made it'. Sharpening doesn't appear in D4 manual's index. But I knew I'd come across the feature - it was just burried with other settings.</p>
  24. neil_grant
    <p>Hi,<br> <br />I can't seem to find the menu for this - or isn't there one? Help, it's driving me mad - I'm sure it was there before!</p> <p> </p>
  25. neil_grant
    <p>I've tried a number of things with varying degrees of success: arctic butterfly, lens pen+loupe. Eclipse cleaning solution leaves the sensor in a terrible mess! Who's using what??</p> <p>thanks,<br> Neil</p>
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