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neil_grant

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Everything posted by neil_grant

  1. neil_grant
    ...thanks Ed that answers my question.
  2. neil_grant
    ...i'm using a Sony a6300 with a Nikon SB 910 (in manual mode) for occasions that need flash (i don't want to use the camera's built in funit) but there doesn't seem to be a dedicated high power TTL flash for this camera - unless i'm not looking hard enough. Do i need to think about a different brand of camera altogether??
  3. neil_grant
    ...nothing should be wobbly, not the back nor any part of the revolving adaptor. The latches on yours looks OK, here's mine for comparison. You shouldn't need to hammer anything.
  4. neil_grant
    ...I think incorrect loading would primarily effect the start of the film - and that's not happening. Latching - maybe. I think I'd be inclined to test light tightness around the back and revolving adaptor without taking a photo. Load film and leave the camera in strong sunlight for a while. Advance the frame, remove the dark slide and repeat. Obviously don't tape the back. You're making some progress and that's good.
  5. neil_grant
    ..the revolving backs looks OK - or at least the seals do. Not sure the rear body baffle plate - is the bottom 'cut away' - I'll take check mine. What about trying to view the image in the film plane? Put some frosted glass there and a dark cloth over the camera? Is light creeping around the mirror's baffle plate?
  6. neil_grant
    ...these back aren't easy to load wrongly- you've got images and they aren't overlapping - you've loaded it correctly. A frame without an image would be good to see - with and without a the dark slide in position. Aren't you close to any other PN members who could help with brief equipment loan/ testing?
  7. neil_grant
    it's a strange one. Perhaps try to eliminate what hasn't caused it. You mention faulty shutter: try a visual test without film. Also, faulty loading (seems unlikley): what about the frame spacing?? Foam seals deteriorate with age and these are worth checking - the light marks (fog on yor negs) are unusual - multiple and sharply defined. A ProSD back does away with foam seals, but the body still has a number of them. Can you develop b/w films yourself for test purposes?
  8. neil_grant
    ...you'll have no trouble clearing the mirror with a gel. I made some rear mounted filters for a Mamiya RB fisheye (the only one i had was UV). These were from optical glass - removed from their filter mounts and then refitted to a stepping ring. (I couldn't get the filter in the correct size for the rear element)You might try making a circular card mount for a gel that will fit tightly into your rear lens group shield. You just don't want tape coming off and getting into shutter or mirror.
  9. neil_grant
    ...could you try taping a thin gel filter over the rear element??
  10. neil_grant
    ...many users report QC problems and it's expensive too. Seem to be few users here on PhotoNet. For the money I'd be a considerable way to a Z6 body.
  11. neil_grant
    ...still not much choice when it's time to move on from the 16-50 kit lens. What do you people think about the Zeiss/Sony 16-70 f/4 ?(apart from it being expensive) thanks!
  12. neil_grant
    i'm using a Sony H series 32 gb card - but the reader is playing up. New ones don't seem compatible with the H series card. What readers are you all using?? Thanks!
  13. neil_grant
    ...what can you recommend - more power than the built in flash. I've used a Nikon SB 800 (naual mode) but it's really too bulky.
  14. neil_grant
    ...the camera won't 'go' unless the film is advanced. There's a safety interlock. You quickly get used to the 'double action' to prepare an RB for shooting. I think the 127mm is the least common of the standard lenses. It's a good lens but I've never used mine for a half length portrait.
  15. neil_grant
  16. neil_grant
    ...that's how I understand the manual. Aperture and exposure time are adjusted, until the lens is wide open or the time is 1 sec or shorter. 'A' mode may deliver longer exposures but that might just be a nuisance. Doesn't really matter if the images come out dark during the nighttime or if the lens gets a bit soft at wider apertures. The important thing is showing the day-night 'cycle'. Not thought about auto ISO - wil the dark images get very noisy?
  17. neil_grant
    ...it's just about ready for a test under working conditions - ie to record frames of an outdoor scene at 10 min intervals over a period of three weeks. I like they idea of keeping the frames at consistent time-spacing - but using 'A' mode could screw this up and the exposure times become very long at night. What about 'P' - isn't there a 1sec limit for longer exposures??
  18. neil_grant
    ...not sure if you've made a decision. Just reading the multitude of things that can go wrong with the Pentax is pretty alarming. Compare that with the Mamiya RB 67. What goes wrong with them?? Lights seals - yes but a diy fix. Interlocks can get sticky. The original doesn't even have them. It's a much safer bet.
  19. neil_grant
    50 hours: 1 spot left on battery, about 600 photos taken. Disconnecting camera for other uses today.
  20. neil_grant
    ..we've thought of the night-time situation - my electronics expert has already made something like this for a Canon, so he may be able to adapt it. I like the idea of just 'leaving it' to get on with things and not risk moving it during a battery change. Also, bad weather and annual leave - no problem! The D7000 has been recording on battery+interval mode 1 photo every 5 mins for about 30 hours - there's about 1/3 power left.
  21. neil_grant
    neil_grant said: ↑ ..an interesting and attractive possibility has been suggested: solar power. Unless the camera is going to be under a light (or you're in the Arctic circle), I'm not sure how that'll help? ...it means the camera can be run for long periods without being connected to the mains (which is a problem) and without being disturbed to change batteries.
  22. neil_grant
    here's my effort. Camera was Sony a6000 with 16-50mm lens. Location: Malaga, Spain.
  23. neil_grant
    thanks!
  24. neil_grant
    ...a question about the Nikon's built-in interval timer: the frame counter only allows up to 999 frames to be entered - but a collegue has suggested the camera just keeps on going after this, but the 'number' goes back to zero. Has anyone noticed /tried??
  25. neil_grant
    ..so the image must be 'hosted' on athird party site - you can't upload directly to the site?
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