neil_grant

..an interesting and attractive possibility has been suggested: solar power.

The camera will be on a balcony. It's away from prying hands but also the mains supply. No 'chimping' nor flash. Hope to 'hot swap' cards as they fill up. Interupting the power will probably require the intervalometer to be started over/reset so there would be a slight time-error in the TL - maybe not serious though. Toying with idea of running it off a car battery - turned down to 7.2v or whatever.

..record for 3 weeks. Mains supply is tricky. I can test battery later on this week. There's also a mbd 11 grip so you have two batteries. Maybe this will help or ease battery swap.

does anyome know how long the camera will operate from it's battery in interval mode? Envisage taking 1 frame every 5 mins?

how can i, and what dimensions? thanks!

...i think my time-lapse requirements are going to need an intervalometer (maybe Hahnel?) - the Sony 'app' neither allows enough frames to be recorded no a sufficient time interval. This of course plugs into the USB port - preventing a PSU being attached there. But i could go the 'db' route. Ideally i'd like to record for three weeks at the fairly leisurely rate of 1 photo every 10 mins. I don't think lack of power will be a problem - even get a PSU made up is OK. Does anyone know if a Sony a6300 will run like this for three weeks?

it's possible to connect an external high-capacity battery to the USB port.

...the Sony 'app' has some annoying limitations such as the max frames setting of 999. Has anyone come across an alternative?

..the real world - not just the virtual one!

...what is mirrolesss Monday??

is there a compatible 256gb card for this camera?

thanks guys. Looks like only the switch has gone bad. Looking a various options.

...it's stopped working - I heard a faint 'fizz' noise. The power switch feels different, but stll activates the unit if held 'in'. Has anyone else had this problem? maybe I can clean the switch myself??

..is this the best place for a post like this? Sounds like you've got oil on the diaphragm - that's the most common cause for 'sticking' in a vintage lens.

...appears to give perfect coverage. I don't use it all all apertures, probably mostly at f/8. Not my favourite lens for XPAN - that would be a Nikon 135mm. Pity a proper one was never made.

..you seem to know that the Fuji and Hasselblad 30mm lenses are the same. The centre filters for the 45mm and 30mm are NOT the same. Neither diameter nor 'strength'. Neither lens is really useable in 'pan' mode without filter. The 30mm lens filter has a factor of x3 - so not an auwful lot of light reaches the film even at full aperture of f/5.6. There is no vignetting when it's in place and the photos show perfect illumnation across the frame. 30mm lens was sold as a kit with the centre filter and viewfinder and was very very expensive.

..these two cameras have different chargers (different shape anyway), and I've a feeling that the one for the a 6300 is more rapid. Is it a 'speed-charger' or am I mistaken?

..they are both double-gauss 6 element lenses. It's likely that the condition of the lens in question will determine which is 'the best'. I notice that none of my M 645 lenses focus all that close (0.7m for 80mm lens) - and the extension tubes are quite fiddly. The 80 'macro' goes nice 'n' close using the helicoid which is very handy - but maybe not very important to your photography.

...i don't think you need to be such a purist as suggested. I'd definitely try a taped gelatin filter. Doubt if there'd be a focus shift with something so thin. It may not matter too much if your abberrations are increased - you're not proposing to shoot through a piece of double glazing covered in grime!

After barely 6 months, the A7ii was pushed to the back of my bag. ...is that a coveted spot? An unexpected benefit of mirrorless is that image review through the vf is possible. Looking at an unshielded screen in bright conditions isn't too easy.

...the line up is a bit confusing so I mean the 'entry level' model. How good is it with vintage lenses? I've got a couple of PC Nikkors, Helios 58mm, Zeiss 135mm, Lydith 30mm. Also, what about the kit lens? 28-75mm? Seems like the lens range is quite restricted (like the Sony half-frame mirrorless cams) but as a mount for 'vintage' it might have a use to me.

...is there any way of making the camera ONLY display the image to the main screen, and not the viewfinder? The swap-over occurs when the eyepiece is covered - typically by the operators eye, but also part of the gimbal stabiliser I am using.

...thanks, that works. Took quite a bit of finding!

Using a Sony 6300, exposure times set to maybe 1/100, almost nothing is visible through the vf. How are people getting around this?

... thanks, that's what it is. Picture profile was engaged in error. There are many choices and some restrict the minimum ISO that can be set. I took 'pp' off altogether - though I'm not sure what the default was.