adam_n.1

+1 for 800 and +2 for 1600.

hp5 pushes really well. at 800 it will definitely look decent. i like the way it looks at 1600. i've never had it look "flat"!

<p>dude, what is going on in this thread...

<p>not to be a kodak advertisement, but here's what you need:

 

<p>kodak d-76 developer: <p>http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/9422/d76zx6.jpg

<p>kodak indicator stop bath: <p>http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/8919/stopbathnx6.jpg

<p>kodak fixer:

<p>http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/9683/fixerdi3.jpg

 

<p>i don't think it gets any simpler than that.

i never got a chance to try the agfa ultra color films, but from what i've seen

it produced incredible results. is there anything currently manufactured that

comes close to the look of that film? i use 400UC a lot, but maybe that doesn't

even come close. something with higher contrast, perhaps? or do i resign myself

to scouting a certain website for old rolls of agfa ultra?

 

TIA

<p>is it a 126 cartridge?

<p>i think kodacolor II is C-41 process which you can develop anywhere theoretically. if it is a cartridge you may have to mail it somewhere.

 

<p><a href="http://www.dwaynesphoto.com">dwayne's photo</a> will develop 126 cartridges for just a few dollars more than a roll of 35mm. they will also develop 110 and disc formats if it happens to be one of those...

anyone who would flame you for suggesting shooting nature with kodachrome should have their head examined.

let me know when you resume production of multicontrast premium 312

all the walgreens locally (san francisco) sell walgreens rebranded 110. a few of the rite-aids sell kodak 110 as well!

maybe this takes something like 116 or 616 film. i believe those spools were longer/wider than 120?

http://www.urmonas.net/manuals/rondinax35u/rondinax35u.html

that's my favorite film + developer combination. neopan pushes really well in hc110!

 

the dev chart says 5 mins neopan 400 @400, 7.25 mins @800 and 12 mins @1600.

the only decent one i've ever come across is in the "ultra" ritz camera in downtown san francisco. uhh..yeah, sorry not much of a pointer. just that i too never see them anywhere.

have you tried kodak 400uc? still see that everywhere, 36 exp in 3 packs for $11-15

most places still have super hq (bleh) but i guess i haven't noticed if superia 400 is disappearing!

dwaynes! good idea. thank you!

yeah, i know 110 and professional is an oxymoron. however i have a few quality

110 cameras and the local ritz just dumped all their 110 film on clearance. i'm

looking for something that's better than wherever rite-aid sends 110 orders,

which take a week to process anyway. there was a similiar thread about two

months ago but it didn't seem like there was a definitive answer (if there is one.)

 

TIA

i don't bulk load but that's still depressing.

neopan 400 is my favorite. i've gotten (what i consider) wonderful results pushing it to 1600 and developing in hc-110. i believe neopan 1600 is really just neopan 400 formulated for shorter development times when exposed @1600 but i could be wrong!

looking glass photo might do it? on telegraph and oregon. they're open on sunday too which is nice.

 

ps last time i was in sarber's they were clearing out their darkroom supplies. for anyone is in the area, i purchased a luminos paper sample box (45 sheets including some charcoal fiber paper) for $17. they had more left.

i've had the order type show up wrong on kodak.com on more than a few occasions. the orders were still processed correctly.

surge marks?

not sure about the film, but i would think a polarizer would be indispensible. it will (almost) eliminate reflections on glass and plastic windows. i think the added sky saturation would be a bonus as well.

main photo in santa ana, ca will process your scala film.

 

http://www.mainphoto.com

state of the art for me might be fuji neopan, surprised no one else has mentioned it.

paper? i used to use agfa mcp and thought that was the best, but it's gone now and i'm still looking for something "state of the art"

i've had wonderful results pushing hp5+ to 1600 using dilution B. even less grain than your 800 in dilution H. so i'm guessing 800 would look great in dilution B as well.

<i>At the very least, I'd suggest diluting the developer you receive with an equal amount of water and approximately doubling the processing time; this will give unofficial Dilution H, won't require any additional working solution even in a minimum volume 35 mm stainless tank, and will allow a long enough process for comfort.</i>

<br>

<p>so, since we always use double tanks it would be possible then to simply use the developer amount of one reel (10 oz.) and then 10 oz of water? we don't add additional water to the mixture from the keg, it's all premixed/diluted. i might try this later in the course when i have more freedom to experiment.

 

i think the reason for using the dilution we use and the development times are purely economical, the budget for the school systems here hasn't been very good lately. although at least every student in class (25 or so) gets their own enlarger.

thank you donald.

it's good to read that tmax will work well.

i'm not sure what dilution we use, i can't remember right now. however it's premixed and we just get it out of a tap from a keg. we use double tanks and 10 oz. per reel, if that means anything. the last roll we developed was at 69 degrees for 3 1/2 minutes, which i'm looking at a chart now might make it dilution B.