bethe_fisher

I use Delta 100 in 4x5 and develop in DD-X. I really like it, just not as much in contrasty light. The grain is fine enough that it's tough to focus under the enlarger without a grain focuser.

Shoot more. Shoot better. Do more alternative stuff (like Mordançage). Get the 5x7 shooting. In all stuff - photography and otherwise, be more organized and procrastinate less.

My two-year-old Pentax K-3 is at about 8700. To be fair, it gets used along with assorted film cameras and is mostly used for shots I want in color.

I'd like to try them, but I don't have plate holders. Well, I think I have one for an old Graphic (camera doesn't work and I don't think the holder will fit the newer ones). I'd be more likely to try 5x7 because a contact print in that size would be nice.

I only squeegee the back of fiber paper, never the emulsion side (it's softer when wet). I dry them face down on drying screens at least overnight. If the room is too dry, they will dry faster and be more curled - you want them to dry a little more slowly. Once they are completely dry, I flatten the ones that will be matted (ie. only the good ones) by putting them in the dry mount press between pieces of matboard for about a minute at about 200 F. After the press, they sit between the pieces of matboard to cool (this seems to be key). I have also put dry prints in the press without turning it on - just using the pressure - for a day or two. That seems to work fairly well, too. Prints that I've made but not decided to mat usually accumulate in acid-free boxes and are much flatter after awhile there. 8x10s also fit in coffee table books and that works, too (just slowly).

Any chance you can take a picture of the negatives themselves, edges and all, against a white light? A light box or white computer screen would work. I'm unclear from the photo in post #11 exactly what you mean by fog. If you mean that the boy is fuzzier than the rest, that's just because of lack of depth of field - the background is in focus and the boy is not.

Underexposed and possibly overdeveloped. Pretty much the opposite of what gives good negs. As others have said - meter the shadows and don't believe all the hype about pushing. Use fresh chemicals, fresh film, and box speed to start.

As noted on Photrio (looong thread there), lots of those using 120 do need the red window numbers - Holgas, Dianas, old rangefinders, etc... Don't really need "Kodak" though. And there haven't been confirmed problems with other films, just Kodak. I've been using Fuji Acros and assorted Ilford and haven't had issues. There are not many companies (maybe even just one) making the backing paper now. The type of markings are up to each film company. Ilford's have gotten pretty light, but they're still visible through red windows. Supposedly Kodak has worked out a better formulation and newer rolls are ok (like really fresh ones, not right after the problem batches).

What film?

Take a picture of the negatives on a lit background like a light box or white screen. If you show the edges and more than one frame, it will help us judge. And post as large as pnet allows so we can see them as if we're holding them.

And possibly Portra, though I'm not sure if that's been the same exact problem. The issue with the B&W has been more widely reported. I do think it's likely to be safe now, but I'd shoot the first roll on something easy to see if it bleeds through (lightish grey, not much detail) and something other than a one-time event.

Do the scans look foggy or is it the actual negatives that look fogged? As in, could it be underfixed? When scanned, underfixed negs look fogged. FWIW, if the film was refrigerated, a few years shouldn't get much fog (if any) on most Ilford films. ISO3200 will be visibly fogged a year or two out of date, but I've had normal looking rolls from HP5+ and Delta 5 years out.

This one - Rocks and Water is Acros (in 120). Since it's rocks and water, it's tough to see how it behaves with trees, etc.. but the upper rocks did have a greenish hue if that helps at all. It's the only one in my flickr stream that's Acros, I think. The main reason I like it is because you can stick with the metered shutter speed up to about 2 minutes. Though I don't do as many long exposures as I wish I did. I really want to do some night shooting, but never have time.

I shoot a fair amount of Acros in 120. It's always been too expensive in 4x5, so I shoot HP5+ or Delta 100 in 4x5. While I like Acros (and it doesn't show reciprocity problems until you meter up around a couple of minutes), I don't know how much longer it'll be around. I'm thinking of switching to FP4 in 120. I usually print in the darkroom, not via computer if that matters. Everything gets developed with DD-X.

Really not a good idea. The disadvantage to using soaps is that they contain dyes and fragrances which can color or leave oily droplets on film and paper. They can also increase tackiness. Then your film or paper can stick together in humid weather. One bottle of Photo-Flo can last a lifetime.

You didn't mention whether it's 35mm or 120. FWIW, I use a metal reel (Hewes brand, they rock) for 120 and plastic for 35mm. The plastic reels have to be drier than dry or the film will get stuck. If you haven't practiced with a dummy roll in the light, do that a bunch of times first no matter which type of reel you use.

I don't usually take a regular camera when I'm just running errands (like grocery shopping). My phone is always with me and is there when I see something I like. So, yes, I use mine a lot. I have several apps for post-processing and one really good one for HDR (Vivid HDR). I have an iPhone 7, so the camera in it is pretty good. No, I don't do selfies except on very rare occasions.

I do my own B&W and send my color to Praus Productions in Rochester, NY. I don't have any local labs worth using.

I have CS5 and it does work on High Sierra. I meant to upgrade to Sierra first, but forgot until it was too late. But High Sierra is ok with it. I know a few photographers who do the CC thing and like it. They use PS and LR a lot, so I think that figures in. They are also the types to get the new versions soon after they come out. With the changes to LR, some are looking at what else is out there, though.

It's in the space with the avatar (image attached). The new login was working for me the last time the system made me log in again (something else that works well on other sites, so I know it isn't how my cookies are set).

No inconvenience. Especially as Laura and I agree on this one. If they want to add features, they could look at the banner showing who the OP is. It works well on photrio - another xenfora site.

In addition to what Conrad and Bill wrote, you should designate some trays for developer, some for stop, and some for fixer - label them with Sharpies. Make sure they get washed, not just rinsed, after each session. With just me using my darkroom, I don't need to wash the trays every time, but a group darkroom will need more cleaning. There needs to be a serious talk about cross-contamination and how to handle chemicals. If they aren't being careful enough, someone will end up with stains on a print and it will likely be the best print they've ever made except for that stain. Ask me how I know this. :/

If you click on the photographer's name a box pops up that includes "private message." Click that and you should be able to send them a note.

Since this covers the same issue as the post I started, I just want to add here that I don't necessarily want to block all nudes and then have to change the setting constantly to see them and then block them. I just want to choose when they show up on my screen rather than having them show up upon logging in. For instance, if I have it set to unblock nudes so I can look at them in the galleries, I do not want to have to block them again before navigating away from the site in order to not have them show up as soon as I log in next time. And having to re-log in every few days is still ludicrous.

She wasn't the OP (btw, there is a way to have a banner showing to designate the OP further down the thread - it's in use on photrio.com and is very helpful), but I agree with her. I don't know the names currently in use for "what shows on my screen right after I log in" - is that timeline? Or profile? Or account info? Sorry, but this one was rolled out without being ready. I'm at the PSA conference and didn't have a chance to check in again until now. Tonight, it just shows a spinning aperture rather than any images.