model mayhem gallery

<p>For stuff like this I use my main camera Sony FDR-AX100 4K on a Benro Tripod with S8 fluid head for smooth pans, zooms and tilts. Then I use me and my friends Apple 6s Iphones for the B-rolls. They are great because they shoot 4K which looks great even when rendered down to 1080 HD. You can zoom in on things and really make it look like you are shooting with a different camera / angle when all you are really doing is panning and zooming your one camera.<br> The rest is all done in Final Cut X or Adobe Premiere CC where all the different seems are brought together. </p>

<p>I also started out as a photographer. I got interested in video after purchasing the Canon 5D Mark II and loving it's video capabilities. However, I also quickly discovered it's video limitations. it is great if shooting video of a realitwvwly still static object. however, shooting live action with it using manual focus for everything quickly became a pain. I know you may say why use manual focus? Well the whole purpose of shooting video with a DSLR is to get great shallow DOF. So I shoot video with a Canon 85 1.2L, 50 1.8 and 28 1.2. Great, however, you must use manual focus as the DOF is so razor thin on full frame that even slight forward or backwards movements will through the camera out of focus. Auto Focus does not work well while recording as the camera will hunt while shooting.</p> <p>So, I upgraded to the Sony FDR-AX100 4K video camera and love it. I shoot at 4K even though I render down to 1080P and this creates IMOP a video which looks much better than my Canon 5D II even with the 85 1.2L.<br> Clean image and requires no special attachments. For audio I use a Sennheiser EW 100 G3 recorded to a Zoon H4N. I picked this up because recording audio with DSLR is horrible. I still use it with th eSony although I do not have to. the Sony has excellent stereo mic. The G3's jsut give me more options.</p>

<p>Wow! John Kent Hill. That is NOT the answer I was hoping for. However, it is exactly what I have discovered so far as well. I'm contemplating just shooting at the highest resolution which supports recording and viewing over HDMI.<br> How did you resolve the issue when it happened to you did you continue shooting in 4K and use the internal viewfinder or did you switch to lower resolution and stick with external monitor?</p> <p> </p>

<p>I recently decided to start doing more video work with my Sony FDR-4k camera. i purchased a Benrow Tripod with S8 fluid head and an external feelworld 7" monitor which states it is 4K compatible. However, when hooking it up to the Sony FDR-AX100 via supplied HDMI cable it works fine and has a bright beautiful display. However, as soon as you hit record while in 4K mode it immediately shuts off output to the HDMI port. I have had my Sony AX-100 for about a year so returning is no longer an option. </p> <p>https://community.sony.com/t5/Camcorders/FDR-AX100-4K-recording-and-Hdmi-or-composite-video-out/td-p/473269</p> <p>Has anyone figured out a work around for this issue?</p> <p>Thanks<br> Patrick</p>

<p>I would recommend getting a video camera with built in recording. I currently own the Sony FDR-AX100 and use a Dell Precision 5510 laptop with xeon processor and 32 GB Ram for 4k editing. </p> <ol> <li>I prefer a video camera format over the DSLR I.E. The Panasonic GH4.</li> <li>Before buying a Sony DSLR which required external recorder I would get a Black Magic Studio 4.6K.</li> </ol> <p>The key is it having XLR inputs and proper monitoring capabilities.<br> I have found a nasty flaw with Sony Camera's. When using a 7" external monitor the Sony FDR-AX100 will not output to the HDMI port while recording in 4K. Yes, for normal work when using the built-in display it works great but if you try to build it into a professional rig you will have immediate issues when it comes to external monitoring. </p>

<p>Get a good mobile phone. Iphone and Samsung both shoot 4k video now days. I like this approach for safety when shooting street photography and really can't tell much of a quality difference From My DSLR or Video camera when on Youtube.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Stop wasting your time with that solution it will never work well. Just get yourself a<br> Zoon h4n: http://www.zoom.co.jp/products/h4n<br> and<br> Pluraleyes: http://www.redgiant.com/products/all/pluraleyes/<br> I tried forever to get good audio through my Canon 5D2 and 5D3 and it was never good. When I finally H4N everything changed. Was too hard tro sync video and audio in Adobe Premiere until I got Pluraleyes, now I can use both my 5D's my companies IPhone 6 and my personal Samsung Galaxy s5 as video sources and use the zoon to record audio. Pluraleyes syncs it all up super fast and easy even with multiple video sources. Yea!<br> <br />The audio imputs on DSLR's suck the only other good option is to get a juicedlink or beachtech <br> http://nofilmschool.com/2012/08/dslr-audio-quality-good-preamp-beachtek-juicedlink-zoomh4n</p> <p> </p>

<p>I would suggest using your smart phone. I have an Iphone app which allows my IPHONE to shoot hd video at 8MM. I also have a Samsung Galaxy S5 which is capable of shooting great low light 4k video. Both have pretty wide angles of viewing decent image stabilization and although they can do audio is not great but for your case not needed anyway. When I do need audio I just use my Zoon H4n.<br> I think most videos on Youtube and Vimeo are shot with Smart phones. Small, easy to use and do a fairly good job especially once you edit in Final Cut or Adobe Premiere.</p>

<p>You already have everything you need. The 24-70 is the absolute BEST zoom lens for shooting video on a Nikon or Canon DSLR. The 50 is a great second option for a lightweight prime. I would be looking more at a 35 or 28 mm before going to an 85. Video is shot in Landscape so generally a wider angle lens like a 17mm will be most flexible.<br> However, I absolutely agree and although I do shoot video with my DSLR I am planning on purchasing a handheld video camera for all the reasons mentioned above. I have missed too many important video scenes because the DSLR focusing is so bad when the subject moves backwards or forwards even a little. It is simple too hard to see good focus while shooting with a DSLR and any attempts to try to refocus while recording will only cause more out of focus video unless you can zoom, get external monitor and have a bunch of other special equipment.<br> <br />All of which will cost more than a simple $300 -$500 handheld video camera which are much lighter and way easier to use.</p>

<p>I still have a Canon 30D around somewhere but since I upgraded to full frame never use that or EFS lenses anymore. However my go to lens on my Canon 5D2 is either the Tamron 70-300 VC or Tamron 24-70 VC. I love them both and compare them both to Canon L-series lenses in both construction and image quality. <br> I really like that they both have full time manual focus and VC. I am surprised a photo sales person would recommend an EFS lens over Tamron. <br> Here are some shots I took with the Tamron 70-300 VC. As you can see it is extremely sharp, bright and has great colors. I think for the money it is absolutely the best lens I have. I do have an 85 1.2L and 17-40L and I put this lens in the same category as both of those.<br> http://patrickwheaton.com/windmills<br> Just my 2 cents for what it is worth. Also I think I got it for $399 maybe less and has a 5 year warranty.</p> <p> </p>

<p>If I had to choose between 60D and 70D it would definitely be the 70D. However, know what I know about camera's now I would save my money a little longer or get a loan and go for the 6D. If you are already spending $1700 or so it is well well worth it to spend a little more and get a much better full frame camera in the 6D.<br> The Tamron 70-300 VC is my favorite lens on my 5D2. Could not imagine it on a crop sensor camera again where it becomes a 112 - 480. <br> To get it within your budget I would look at getting a new 6d and a used 70-300 VC. You might end up being a little bit over your budget but wont have to upgrade the camera again for a while. You will always add and upgrade lenses, but your lens selection will have a lot to do with your camera being full Frame or crop sensor.</p>

<p>The 5D2 is a substantial upgrade to a 40D. However, if I were buying a new camera today on a budget I would definitely get the 6D. If you are not making enough money doing photography to pay for the difference then just keeping your 40D is probably adequate.</p>

<p>No, it will not work. When the camera is in movie mode it will not fire the flash. I believe this is because the mirror is locked up in movie move, but what ever the case I have tried to take photos while doing video and the flash does not fire. Also if you press the shutter button while shooting video it will stop the video take a photo and then go back to recording video.<br> So the way to create the scene you described would be to fire the off-camera flash manually by pressing the test button of using a wireless trigger. Does not need to sync with the camera.</p>

<p>I have to say though I wouldn't go back to shooting with either of those lenses although I belive I could still get decent quality picture out of them.</p>

<p>For me film is never better as I hate waiting days to get my film back. It took several weeks to get my black and white film back and I was told I could not process the slide film at all. I was use real black and white file Kodak Plus-X and Tri-X and they had no idea what it was. I was told they can only process C41 processed film which uses a color film process for black and whites.<br> Well, I still believe medium format film has more dynamic range than Digital camera's. However, slide film and digital cameras have about the same range. If you are using something like Fuji Neopan or Kadak UC or VC Ulta color or Vivid color you will see more color saturation in greens reads and yellows. However, you can get similar results using Alien Skins Exposure.</p>

<p>I still have and use the Tamron 28-75 F2.8 It is a good lens</p>

<p>I had a similar issue to this with my old Canon Rebel haven't seen this issue on my 5D2. I would try using mirror lockup or shooting in video mode which also locks the mirror up. If neither of these work then the lever which flips the mirror up is probably broken. When this happened to my Rebel I saw a small thing which looked like those little candy bar you sprinkle on cupcakes. small plastic barrel about an 1.8" long. It is the lever which raises the mirror sometimes when shooting high-speed the mirror slaps down hard on this littler lever and breaks it. On my rebel which was still under warranty the replaced the whole camera.<br> However, I would have thought this part would be metal on a 5d2 not plastic like the cheap rebels. In any case repair should not be very much maybe a couple hundred dollars. 5d2 is worthy of fixing.</p>

<p>I would definitely not upgrade a kit lens with another kit lens or only marginally better lens. I would hands down do as I did and go Tamron. Either the 18-50 2.8 VC or Tamron 18-270 VC Macro. The 18-50 F2.8 VC is a marvelous lens for the money. It is small light full time F2.8 with a great image stabilizer. Has a 5 year warranty and is dirt cheap. I had greate success with the Tamron 28-75 F2.8 and this lens did not even have VC. I compare these with mainstream Canon non l-series lenses. Some of the Tamron like the 24-70 F2.8 VC are actually close in quality to frist general Canon L-series lenes. I.E. to me the Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC is better than the Canon 24-70 F2.8 version I and the Canon 24-105 F4 IS.<br> Or get a Canon primes like the 28 1.8, 50 1.8 and 85 1.8 (which I also have all of). </p>

<p>No. The 5D grip will not fir a 5DII. The 5DII is physically larger than a 5D. Also, the 5DII shoots HD video so requires a bigger battery than the 5D did which does not have video capabilities. I absolutely love the 5DII grip. You will need the juice of two batteries but I also like that it allows me to run my camera on regular double A batteries if I am overseas and get in a pinch. </p>

<p>Well Nikon's are very strong camera's. I currently shoot Canon but if I had it to do over I would probably got Nikon. They have over the years surpassed Canon in several ways. Build quality being one of them. So when I hear all the problems your daughter had, it makes me wander if the camera was used when purchased if not was the camera treated roughly.<br> In any case if she has already been shooting for a couple of years I would think something in order of a 7D or 6D would make since.</p>

<p>I never miss an opportunity to trash the Canon 24-105 F4L. In my honest opinion it is the worst of all the L-series lenses made. I owned this lens for about two weeks and returned it to the store. This is the first and only lens I have ever returned. I already had the Canon 17-40 F4L which again in my opinion is the best L-series lenses you can get at it's price level. it was the last time I checked the lowest priced L-series lens and Does not have nearly the distortion of the 24-105 at 24mm. <br> However, For my Canon 5D2 the Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC is one of the best lenses I have ever used only surpassed the Canon 85 1.2L. The Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC is not as good as the new Canon 24-70 F2.8 II but I put it equal to the Canon 24-70 F2.8 I and considerably better than the Canon 24-105 F4L. <br> I would recommend the following three lenses Canon 17-40 F4L (Wide angle), Tamron 24-70 F2.8 (main lens) Tamron 70-300 F4 -5.6 VC (telephoto) dirt cheap excellent lens or The Canon 70-200 F2.8 II (if you got the money) alternate Tamron or Sigma 70-200 F2.8.<br> There are several third party lenses like Tamron and Carl Zeiss which in my opinion in some ways exceed or match the IQ and build quality of Canon L-series lenses. Just have to do your research and don't assume ALL L-series lenses are great.</p>

<p>Someone mentioned the defects in the Canon 24-105 can be easily fixed in Lightroom. Yes, this is true. However, when I shoot with an L-series lens I don't want to HAVE to FIX anything at all. If I am shooting film or Digitals where client wants the product the same day. Then there is no time to FIX. In any case when shooting L-series one should be able to get nearly perfect pictures off the glass with no editing. If I am going to correct, sharpen etc. Why spend all that money for an L. You could just get a cheap Tamron or Sigma do the same thing in Lightroom and save yourself a bunch of money.</p>

<p>Absolutely no reason to replace my Canon 17-40 F4L for another F$ lens in basically the same focal length. Why can't Canon come out with a wide angle fast lens with IS. If they came out with a 17-40 or 24-70 F2.8 IS I would be all over it. However, that range is an area I shoot a lot of videos and events. Having F2.8 is more important at those closer distances as it helps reduce flash power and increase battery life. <br> So, for now I will stick with my Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC.</p>

<p>Auto-focus is a function of the lens not the camera. Generally, Canon L-series F2.8 lenses will have the absolute fastest and most accurate focusing. However, I absolutely love my Tamron 70-300 F4-5.6 VC lens. First I love that it $399 new with a 6 year warranty. You can actually get it at B&H for $349 after $100 mail in rebate. Honestly, I think this lens is equal to the Canon 70-300L. It focuses super fast and almost 100% silent. I was able to capture the eye of a flying seagull so clear I could see its pupil and iris clearly. I know this is not about lenses, but if he wants to caputer clear pictures of moving objects and not spend and arm and a leg for Canon 1X and F2.8 L-series lenses. Then you can do a pretty good job with a basic camera and a great lens. The Tamron 70-300 VC to me is a great lens.</p>

<p>Depends on what kind of photography you do. If it is just for personal pleasure a 5D is fine. However, most of my customers today also want HD video for their Youtube channels. So, personally I wouldn't buy any camera today which can't shoot video even if it is a cheap Rebel Ti type camera. Also, if the camera is showing the signs of wear you are describing I would check the shutter count. I think for the money the 6D is a better buy if you are thinking future.</p>