john_markanich

Has anyone had any luck getting Kodak to honor expired slide mailers? I have

four which expired Feb. 2007.

Not all fireproof safes are created equal. Most are fire rated for paper which has a much higher 'point-of-destruction' than other media such as tape or CD/DVD's. What you need is a Data Safe. More expensive, much thicker (meaning less room inside) and comes with its own set of caveats. For example: Should you place the safe in the basement of your home to prevent the safe from falling through burning floors or on an upper floor to keep the data safe from flood damage? If the cold water from a fire hose hits a hot safe it will crack admitting air which will then ignite the oxygen-starved contents.

 

Multiple copies in different locations seems to be the only answer.

Do a search on Data Safes for more detailed discussion.

Funny you should ask. Vincent Oliver just completed an excellent 3-way comparison of the HP B9180, the Canon Pro9500 and the Epson R2400.

 

http://www.photo-i.co.uk/

 

You may not be interested in any of these printers but some of the flavor of how each manufacturer handles the design/function of printers in this class is objectively revealed.

Here Don, both from the Epson web site...

 

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&infoType=FAQ&oid=79928&prodoid=63062509&foid=88126&cat=53478&subcat=53481

 

 

and page 10 of the 3800 Printer Guide here in PDF form...

 

http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/pro38_/pro38_gd.pdf

The Epson web site is a little confusing about this. On one page it states

the minimum requirements are a 2.1 Ghz P4 or greater. On another page it's

asking for a 3.2 Ghz P4 or greater. Can I safely assume the all the dual core

processors are "greater" then a P4? The Ghz ratings seem low on the dual

cores (or should I multiply that figure by 2)?

I was recently given a ZBE Starlite 55 enlarging head without any mounting

adapter. I own a Beseler 45V-XL and contacted ZBE for support. They advised

that the unit and the adapters have been out of production since 1999. Does

anyone know where I can get an adapter or of someone who can fabricate one?

Within PhotoShop CS2 I have been using a Threshold Adjustment Layer sliders to

find (then shift/click) the black and white points of the image leaving a

circled 1 and 2 on the image for later reference. However when I create a New

Layer with Edit>Fill>50%Gray in the difference Blending Mode, then create

another new Threshold Adjustment Layer in order to find the mid-point of the

image the resulting threshold sliders just snaps the image over to a total

black or white lith-like image with no indcation as to where the mid-point

is. Am I missing something here?

Make sure your alt/clk function hasn't been dedicated to some other function in another program like a game or recently installed desktop tool.

Other than the inconvenience of burning the disc will the files find their proper folders in PhotoShop when brought to the non-connected PC?

I'm interested in a non-internet-connection setup too. My quetion is can downloads such as updates and added paper profiles be downloaded on a connected PC, burned to a CD, then carried over to and installed on the non-connected computer?

Also, whatever carts you replace, do it it one fell-swop. Don't remove a cart, wait a day or three to get a replacement, then stick the new one in. Have the replacement in-hand then swap-out. (prevents clogs I've been told).

Epson states that the system reqirements for a PC should be a minimum of a

2.1GHZ processor and 1GB of RAM. I'm running a 500MGHz processor with 756MGs

of RAM. Dose anyone know if the printer will work with this set up (although

slow) or not at all?

About the 'fire safe' aspect of this topic. A fire proof safe for paper will not protect film and/or magnetic/optical data. For that you need a Data Safe which has a much higher fire rating.

I use 3M positionalble mouting adhesive (PMA). It comes in rolls and is first applied to the back of an untrimed print. I use a manual Coda roller press to insure good adhesion then trim the print to final size. The backing of the PMA can then be removed and the print postitioned on the mount board and "tipped in".

 

By "tipped in" I mean that the print is rolled onto the mounting board as it is being flatened by (again) the Coda press. You can do this with the plastic burnishing tool they supply but you have to protect the surface of the print while burnishing. Full adhesion may/may not occur if you don't burnish completely. The Coda press is really nice.

 

I haven't tried mounting all of the various types (matt, glossy, specialty, etc.) of ink jet prints but PMA has worked on everything from the ye'old wet days to date for me.

When making a bevel (window) cut you have to use a piece of chip board underneath. Chip board is nothing more than another piece of mat board. Make sure your blade is set just deep enough to barely, but completely, cut through the mat. It's the tip of the blade in the chip board that keeps the blade from wandering during the cut. The mat is cut from the back. If your chip board starts to get chewed up your blade is set to deep. Chip board is not needed when making a straight (non-beveled) cut. Also, make your cut in one complete motion without stopping or hesitating. Always use quality mat board and sharp blades.

Advice well taken Edward. I should have added that for sure I would NEVER use the rewound roll in a commercial shoot or during any important 'take'. That would be dumb,dumb,dumb. I would use it during a knock-around walk in the park on a Sunday afternoon just to see if my rewind skills are adequate for that day when I'm down to one roll which I just f____d-up. (Of course, on that day I will need to be blessed with a changing bag or a very, very dark closet too).

Thanks for all your help. Yes, I worried about that taped end and the effect it would have during a rewind but now I understand how to 'relieve' any excess bulge that might/will occurr. It isn't the cost of the film that's important, it's acquiring a skill to maybe save the day one day.

I accidentally completely wound on an unexposed roll of 120 size film in a

Hassy film magazine. Can I reload it as if it were a fresh roll and rewind it

back to it's original state -or- would it be better to try to do it by hand in

total darkness.

The email was in the form of a ad pic. The bottom line of fine print read "...This message is from Epson America, Inc. 3840 Kilroy Airport Way, Long Beach, CA 90806..." The email itself came from "...Epson Online [epson_announcements@store.epson.com]..."

 

This is either good news or no news. If it's a joke somebody spent a lot of time on the graphic.

Just got this from Epson:

 

Anybody know anything more?

 

..."On September 27, we'll unveil our newest professional printer. We want to

tell you

about a new printer that's going to get your adrenaline pumping, your heart

racing

and your imagination soaring.

 

For starters, it looks cool. It's sleek, slim, stylish and space efficient.

Think high-end

sports car.

 

But, it's what's inside that will really raise your pulse rate. This

engineering

marvel incorporates several radical new technologies. And, of course, it takes

full advantage of our already industry-renowned Epson UltraChrome K3ﾙ inks.

 

We've saved the best for last. Wait till you see the price. We think you'll be

not

just pleased, but amazed.

 

So mark your calendar. Set a reminder in your PDA. And, put a note on your

computer monitor ﾗ SEPTEMBER 27 ﾗ it's the official release date of what

promises to be a huge new leap forward in professional printing.

 

This is going to be exciting"....

Curious. How did you damage the coating of your CRT?

Thank you all for the prompt responses. Good point Axel about the changing email address. Fortunately only $40 is tied up in this one program (20/20MD) and I was able to burn a disc of the download. Kirk, the creator, assures all I have to do in the event of a crash is apply my reg.# to the download when prompted to get rolling again.

software purchased and received as a download (no disc) if your computer has a

major crash resulting in the program being lost. Will the company allow you

to re-download the software agian using a registration number?

I use the presoak and the standard developement time. The resulting negs (TriX, TMAX's, HP & FP) can always be printed at grade 2. I punch up the contrast at the printing stage if the image benefits aesthetically.

Yep, got the kit. It's all liquid with instructions on how to mix 1, 2 or 5Ltrs. at a time. The price is up too; from $20/Ltr. to $27/Ltr.