john_markanich

<p>Are you sure that YOUR monitor is properly calibrated to begin with? (using one of the commercial pucks available). No whiz here, just a thought. </p>

<p>According to Scott Kelby in his latest book on CS5 banding is caused by over-tweeking an 8-bit image. He recommends that it's best to stay in 16-bit for as long as possible before converting to an 8-bit jpeg. If your original scan is already 8-bit there is no going back, however Kelby recommends adding noise in an amount of 4%, click the Gaussian radio button and activate the Monochromatic checkbox (I'm not sure if Elements 7 has this feature). Although you'll see the noise onscreen it won't show in the print and somehow masks the banding. BTW I highly recommend Kelby's books for all sorts of PS help like this. </p>

<p>Have you made any prints? If they closely match the screen all is well.</p>

<p>I thought Time Machine was supposed to do a complete system backup? I have mine (under Snow Leopard) backing up to a WD My Book.</p>

<p>Yes (maybe). I think System Prefs>Display is where the monitor profile will show up and where it can be selected and applied from.<br>

In Steinmueller/Gulbins new e-book "Digital Photography Workflow Handbook" they wrtie:<br>

"...Photoshop for Windows includes the Adobe Gamma utility for calibrating monitors. Mac OS X includes a similar utility called ColorSync Calibrator".<br>

Under Windows I used to disable Adobe Gamma in the start menu before calibrating with the Eye-One Display but my new Mac does not offer this option. The purpose is to avoid double profiling the monitor<br>

</p>

 

<p>I'm running Snow Leopard on a new iMac. Do I need to disable or remove the Mac ColorSync Calibrator before calibrating the monitor with an Eye-One Display 2? If so, how do I go about doing that.</p>

<p>Added: What I did a few years ago as I started to gather PS skills and workflows was collect a folder of throw-away images (some of mine, some mined from the web, nothing worth worrying about). I then proceeded to conduct the equivalent of medical experiments on them in PS with one of Kelby's book in my lap. The key for me was to do repeat whatever tools forte was on the various flaws in the images, saving none, then trying them again over and over again until the tools power was fully understood. Mouse-on repetition, for me, was what made PS sink in.</p>

<p>Mark S. Johnson (formerly of Radiant Vista) has his own site now and sells very good, very inexpensive DVD tutorials. He's moved on to CS5 but some CS4 stuff may still be available.<br>

here is the link:<br>

http://www.msjphotography.com/</p>

<p>Pay close attention on HOW you order up that 8GB of RAM. My intel based 27" imac has four slots for RAM. Off the shelf it held two, 2GB cards but the Apple Store let me upgrade to two, 4GB cards. They bought back the original 2GB cards. This gives me the opportunity to upgrade later by adding two more 4GB cards for a total of 16GB of RAM. (Remember, when adding cards they all have to be of the same capacity).</p>

<p>May I suggest you get Scott Kelby's book "The Adobe PhotoShop CS5 book for digital photographers". It's certainly light enough for newbie photogs' and may be the only book you'll ever need (until CSXXXX comes out). My bible. No need to sweat the fine details expounded by other sources, yet. <br>

Make images. We can comb our mustaches later, but first make images.</p>

<p>I contacted Adobe via on-line chat, the tech took control of my desktop and fixed the problem. There was a problem somewhere in the activation process. <br>

All is well. Ragh, my contact, was superb.</p>

<p>I contacted Adobe via on-line chat, the tech took control of my desktop and fixed the problem. There was a problem somewhere in the activation process. <br>

All is well. Ragh, my contact, was superb.</p>

<p>I called Adobe and was cleared to upgrade from CS2 on a PC to CS5 on a Mac. I made the purchase from Adobe and received the CS5 upgrade disk. The install process seemed to go fine (took about 20 minutes).<br>

During the install process I entered the CS5 serial# when requested but because CS2 wasn't installed on the new Mac I was prompted to enter the type of product I was upgrading from and it's serial#, which I did. I was never prompted to insert the old CS2 disk. But now every time I open CS5 I get prompted to re-enter the CS5 serial# and asked if I want to continue with the trial version of CS5 Extended (a much more expensive program) or to buy it Now. I don't want or need the much more expensive Extended version of CS5. <br>

My worry is that although CS5 (the regular version) seems to be installed just fine will it self-deactivate when the trial version of CS5 Extended expires in thirty days?</p>

<p>Depth of Field is dependent on two things and two things only:<br>

1. Magnification at the film(sensor) plane.<br>

2. f-stop</p>

<p>Don't overlook fire and flood, with fire being the more dangerous of the two. I keep my 'best' slides in glass mounts, in plastic boxes in a data safe along with a reusable silica pack. A data safe is not the same as a common fire-proof safe available at places like Staples. It's a specialty item designed to protect heat sensitive materials that have a flash point below that of paper. Data safes are heavy and offer less space inside when compared to a common fire-proof unit of the same size but are really the only answer for the on-site fire protection of film. <br>

Looking to the future they are the only true on-site protection for digital media too.</p>

<p>After years of shooting with my 503CW I still, on occasion, forget to crank the advance knob until it stops after mounting the back on the camera body. (No, this won't get you 14 frames from a 12 shot back). I have also goofed (twice) regarding the proper "S" pattern the film must take when loaded from the fresh spool then under the clamping rail and onto the take-up spool. This really causes a head-scratcher around frame 5 or 6.<br>

Bottom line: develop good camera handling practices early on and always handle the camera the same way and in the same sequence. The camera does very little for you automatically but once you get the "craft" work flow down pat practice, practice, practice. Afterwards, those multi-function-mini-computer-with-a-lens-soon-to-be-superceded blocks of plastic will feel pesky. (I have one of those too, I know) LOL.</p>

<p>P.S. - Get yourself:<br>

1. THE HASSELBLAD MANUAL by Ernst Wildi (the edition that pertains to your model).<br>

2. The shutter re-cranking tool (about $19). You will, at some point, need it and it is the safest way to reset a lens shutter. <br>

3. A sturdy, wide-legged tripod. The camera, lens, finder & back & me went into to drink once while fiddling with a weaker model. This is no area to skimp.</p>

<p>Thanks for the info. I have to use the G9 at a wedding, as a guest (the mother of the groom loves my candids and wants it in B&W digital). She has someone else doing the formals and video. I'm holding off buying a canon DSLR for as long as possible but know that the on-camera flash of the G9 just isn't up to the task, yet, when I do jump totally from silver to pixels I want a good, powerful flash at hand. </p>

<p>Has anyone had any experience in using the Speedlite EX580 II with a PowerShot G9? Other than the top heavy heft is the combination useable? Any missing features compared to a EOS DSLR? </p>

<p>These images won't make any sense or be of any value to anyone until about 100 years from now when suddenly the clothing, the buildings and surroundings will have attained the patina of time. Only then will the nostalgia of days-gone-by become an art form of and to itself. It will be as if a snap shot of any scene from 19XX or 20XX (add your own last two digits) is a miraculous capture of the essense of human existence of the day. Beats me too, I'll be dead by then.</p>

<p>A Disc camera in hand is worth more than a Deardorff in the trunk.<br>

If you don't understand these terms or the implication of the statement I'm afraid no one can help you.</p>

<p>First, clamp the grip securely in a vise (use adequate padding), socket hole up, (do not over tighten). If you can, drill a tiny hole off-center on a flat section of the broken piece which is stuck down in the grip. Then insert the tip of a hardened tool like a nail punch into the tiny hole you just drilled. While holding the nail punch vertically tap the side of the punch in a counterclock-wise direction gently with a small hammer or wrench. A drop of a product called Liquid-Wrench fluid might help. If the top of the broken piece is close to the top of the hole you may be able to get a bit of an angle on the punch to hasten the counterclock-wise movement.<br>

If this fails your next step would be a trip to a camera repair shop or a jewler. This isn't a critical, delicate maneuver involving electronics or optics so it shouldn't cost much. </p>

<p>Every time I open a JPEG in Windows Picture & Fax Viewer it appear somewhat soft. However, after I zoom in to the maximum extent possible then zoom back out to full view the picture appears sharp. In fact, If I sharpen the image in PhotoShop prior to viewing it in Windows Picture & Fax Viewer it appears WAY oversharpened to the point of being sandpaper-gritty. What is going on here and will it affect the final look of prints.</p>

<p>I only turn my camera off if: 1). I know I will be moving or stationary and NOT shooting. Otherwise I keep it ON (or have set the longest auto-off to its longest setting if the camera has such a setting). 2). As previously mentioned, I add/change/remove a component. <br>

Keep in mind. If your camera has a built in flash the thyrisor will dump its charge when you turn the camera off thereby wasting battery power.</p>

<p>I only turn my camera off if: 1). I know I will be moving or stationary and NOT shooting. Otherwise I keep it ON (or have set the longest auto-off to its longest setting if the camera has such a setting). 2). As previously mentioned, I add/change/remove a component. <br>

Keep in mind. If your camera has a built in flash the thyrisor will dump its charge when you turn the camera off thereby wasting battery power.</p>

<p>To add to your concern. I was wondering if the previous iMac screen brightness issue has carried over to the new iMac's.</p>