john_markanich

<p>Ummmmmmmm.....yeah. Watch the movie "The Killing Fields".</p>

<p>Well, you can no more remove a reflection to see what was behind it than you could remove a hat to reveal a full head of hair.<br>

Patching is your only option if you have something to patch from.</p>

 

<p>In a dual monitor setup, which monitor gets (and retains) calibration; in either a Mac or PC environment. Specifically, I'm thinking of purchasing a laptop for its portability, and utilizing a connected monitor for image editing. Is this a possible option?</p>

<p>First, let me thank all of you for your quick responses. To clarify further, I don't have the laptop yet but it will be a PC and, most importantly, when using PhotoShop I want to put my tools on the small laptop display and the image on the larger external display.</p>

<p>What kind of connection would a laptop need to feed a larger external monitor? Specifically, not just as a duplicate display but as larger screen space of the same display. I do a lot of PhotoShop work and would like a dual monitor setup where my tools are on the small laptop display and the image on the larger external display.</p>

<p>I have to agree with the first contributor. If you need an exposure longer than the lowest ISO or smallest f-stop available on the camera will alow your only option is an ND filter. Ditto for a wide aperature and long shutter speed. <br>

A GND may seem to be an easily replicated filter in PS but I think you will eventually find that a little forethought and effort at the capture stage will save you a lot of time at the processing stage depending, of course, on the complexity of the 'break' between the light & dark areas. <br>

As for the PL, (this is a no-brainer), although PS can darken a blue sky and stamp out glare WHAT is it that remains behind the glare? WHAT is on the other side of that reflection in a window or beneath the surface of the water? PS can remove a hat but you won't find a full head of hair underneath.</p>

<p>Does anybody need or want, for historical purposes, the book "The Dye Transfer Process" by David Doubley. Contains a wealth of information about the process itself and sensitometry in general. If I recall this was a $40 book back in 1987. <br>

$10 to cover postage (and a beer for me) and it's yours. I would hate to just throw it away.</p>

<p>Thanks NK guy. My next alternative may be to rent a 30D for this shoot (a communion ceremony in a dark church). How well will the 430 shake hands with a 30D?</p>

<p>Will a Canon 430EZ Flash work on a G9 without frying its guts. I haven't been able to find any trip voltage numbers on either and thought it better to ask before I connect & click.<br>

I have been using the 430 on a Canon 10s film camera (both of the same vintage - early 1990's).</p>

<p>Although working in the digital world doesn't require the scrupulous pre-exposure dust removal necessary in the wet darkroom a bit of the same technique is applicable. Wear a head cap (no kidding, hair dander flies with magnetic like properties directly to film; don't know why). Remove the slide from its mount and clean both sides with PEC fluid and PEC Pads. Remount the slide in a plastic, full frame snap mount from Gepe or other supplier. With your cap still on, examine with an 8-10X loupe. Brush with an anti-static brush or blast it with (unshaken) compressed air if necessary. Check and recheck until it's completely clean.<br>

This is the routine I use when printing Ilfochromes. </p>

<p>Although working in the digital world doesn't require the scrupulous pre-exposure dust removal necessary in the wet darkroom a bit of the same technique is applicable. Wear a head cap (no kidding, hair dander flies with magnetic like properties directly to film; don't know why). Remove the slide from its mount and clean both sides with PEC fluid and PEC Pads. Remount the slide in a plastic, full frame snap mount from Gepe or other supplier. With your cap still on, examine with an 8-10X loupe. Brush with an anti-static brush or blast it with (unshaken) compressed air if necessary. Check and recheck until it's completely clean.<br>

This is the routine I use when printing Ilfochromes. </p>

<p>I just purchased a Western Digital My Book Mirror Edition 2TB external hard drive for the purpose of backing up the contents of my C and F (my second internal drive), OS, programs and all saved data files. I know I want to use RAID 1 for dual 1TB backup but should I use WD's provided software or a 3rd Party program such as Norton Ghost or such? WD's FAQ's are as clear as mud and seem to be written for drives they made two years ago. Any help (especially from recent Mirror Edition users) would be appreciated.</p>

<p>Not an EOS related answer but the tirpod, me, my 503CXi w/a 50CF Distagon attached all crashed down a slippery rock and into the drink in an ice cold stream in central VT. Everybody/thing hit the rock and took a dip. Result: $1500 repair from Hblad for the body and lens all of which, excepting a $500 deductible, was coverd by my homeowners insurance because of a rider I carrried on all my better gear. Black & Blue rear end; priceless.</p>

<p>Not an EOS related answer but the tirpod, me, my 503CXi w/a 50CF Distagon attached all crashed down a slippery rock and into the drink in an ice cold stream in central VT. Everybody/thing hit the rock and took a dip. Result: $1500 repair from Hblad for the body and lens all of which, excepting a $500 deductible, was coverd by my homeowners insurance because of a rider I carrried on all my better gear. Black & Blue rear end; priceless.</p>

<p>What will 64 bit processing bring to the digital photographer? Speed, quality, something else...?</p>

<p>(seems to me I've answered questions just like this before). As an old FD lens user all through the '80s I finally sprung for one of the early EOS 28-80 f2.8/4 L zooms when I first bought an EOS body. The resulting slides were an eye-opener. Clarity, depth into the shadows, a smoothness in constrast that is hard to explain, the lack of color fringing (especially near the corners) was definitely visilble. Now, there were older, non-L FD lenses that approached the same image quality; the 50mm f1.4, the 80-200 f4 come to mind from my personal experience. For me and my money, unless a specfic forcal length or gee-wiz type of lens isn't available in the L series, I'll always go the the L.</p>

<p>I currentley have PS CS2.  What is the upgrade schedule before I have to buy a whole new version of PS?  I'm hearing that after 2 versions I have to purchase a whole new PS purchase.</p>

Take the hot water bottle off your forehead and go take some pictures.

I had to laugh. I entered my small town photo club contest this past weekend. One of my entries was an 11X14 Ilfochrome I printed from a Hassy 6X6 chrome. During the subsequent reception I was approached over and over again by club members (all digital folks) who, with wide eyes, just had to know how many megapixels my camera was - and what printer I used - and how do I sharpen my prints...on and on.

 

I explained my 'work flow' and watched their faces glaze over then fade to blank perplexed stares.

 

So, yes Virginia, the 500 CM is still revelent today, and no, inkjet printers have not yet gotten as deep into the emulsion as a well crafted Ilfochrome.

I too doubt that the developer went of date like a light switch. I've used developer that was so old it looked more like used motor than a photo chemical oil and always pulled out something printable. I think something else happened here.

Not a scientist here but whatever you do, do it soon. Organic matter gives off god-knows-what (acids, resins, fungus) as it deteriorates and could etch delicate coated glass surfaces

It's easy. Put the lens on the camera, look through the viewfinder and open up a vein.

PEC-12 won't harm the cardboard mount in any way. I've cleaned mounted prints by dragging whatever was on the surface of the print off onto the mount board with PEC & a PEC pad. No problems. Be sure to wear lint free cotton gloves. If not the oil from your fingertips will transfer from your fingers to the PEC pad to the surface of the slide. Your biggest problem will be cleaning into the corners of the mount. Nothing short of removing the slide from the mount will work hear. That said, cardboard mounts and the word "archival" don't mix in my mind anyway.

Thank you both for the info.

As fate would have it I need more external storage before I need a new computer. Since the future seems aimed

towards 64 bit will the currently available external drives (like a Western Digital Passport) be compatible with this

higher-bit processing?