jim_appleyard

Yeah, Acufine is great if you want to push. The longer you left it in the soup, the higher you could go with an EI.

You may want to look into using a divided developer. this will neither push nor pull the film, but it may be a happy medium seeing as you don't know what EI you used. If you're off by one stop, that may not be too critical. You can mix your own from scratch and I would recommend Thrionton's Two Bath. The Formulary sells a D-76 two bath. Try one roll and see what happens.

Theses devs may or may not be good. You'll have to open each can and find out. Fresh developers will be white or a light tan in color if still good. Overall, I've had great luck in using old, canned devs.

You can get a graduated neutral density filter, that will often times help.

Sounds good to me!

Good info above. You can also take a b/w photo course (if such a thing is still offered) at you local community college. sometimes it's nice to see how someone does things.

I've used old dev before. It will work, but it won't last like fresh stuff. a few hours and toss it. You may find that it doesn't give quite the contrast that fresh dev will. Hey, mix it up and have some fun; make contact sheets with it or test prints.

<p>Using Rodinal as your developer helps as well. The high pH seems to wash out the stain during the dev process.</p>

<p>At one time, the Formulary sold ammomium thiosulfate in powder form, but it is not listed in their chemical section today. You could always contact them and ask if it is still available.<br> http://stores.photoformulary.com/stores.photoformulary.com/contact-us/</p>

<p>I have some TX that has one of the bad emulsion numbers and contacted Mr. Mooney. He will be sending me new film. Great customer service!</p>

<p>Inside the film magazine and near the take-up spool is a mark. When you load the film, wind the leader to the arrow on the paper leader to this mark, close film mag and wind camera. It will stop at #1.<br> <br />There is an exposure counter. It should be on either the right or left edge of the top of the camera body when looking down from above.<br> <br />Not sure what "multi highlighter" is, but may be a multi exposure (double exposure) switch.<br> <br />Don't know about other letters on prism, but it can be a good system.</p>

<p>David, if you'd like to get back into processing your own film, nothing is easier than Tri-X in Diafine. Diafine isn't as low cost as it used to be, but you'll get many rolls thru the solutions before it goes on you. <br> <br />I get an EI of 1250, not the 1600 that Diafine claims, but this is a small difference.<br> <br />Diafine is a two bath developer. 3 min in A, 3 min. in B and fix, wash and dry. <br> The only drawback is that Diafine has only one EI to it, you can't push it further. Acufine works well for that.</p> <p> </p>

<p>While there is nothing wrong with learning from another photographers work that you admire, don't forget you may have a very good style of your own.</p>

<p>You can also try Acufine from EIs of 800 to 6400, just increase the time in the developer. The higher you go in EI, the more contrast you'll get. </p>

<p>You can dev Tri-X in vulture vomit. All developers out there are good ones. It depends on what you like, what is available for you, what gives you the image you like, etc. Develop several rolls in a particular developer to learn what it can and cannot do. If it doesn't work for you, try a different one. All of the above suggestions are valid.</p>

<p>Wow, don't know what to tell you. That usually is a no-miss thing. </p>

<p>Marc, I find you statement interesting. TX & Rodinal is a classic combo. How many rolls did you shoot & process?</p>

<p>You could try souping in Dektol 1+0. I don't know times, you'll have to experiment, but this was somewhat common in the early 80's.<br> <br />As said, Rodinal could be used and I like this look a lot. Diafine is also good.</p> <p>You can try Acufine and push to 3200, but this gave me ugly, unprintable, soot & whitewash negs.</p> <p>A lot of those old press photos were shot with full flash close to the lens and the pics often had a lot of contrast to them. That might be the best road to follow.</p>

<p>There are lots of good places to buy film, but the least expensive place to buy paper that I've found is ultrafineonline. <br> http://www.ultrafineonline.com/newulvcelvac.html</p>

<p>Don't forget about Ilford's Pan-F. At ISO 50 it's only one stop faster than these other films. </p>