tudor_apmadoc

Make sure you scan as grayscale. If you scanned as RGB, then convert to grayscale. When you go to print, make sure the print properties is set up to have printer in black and white mode If after all that, you are still getting a blue tint, I would think your printer is at fault and needs to be serviced

Here's my strategy. My primary photo storage is a Synology NAS with a 10Gb card. The storage is RAID 6. Each night I use Smart Sync Pro to copy from the Primary storage to another RAID 6 device. I have Smart Sync Pro configured to keep 5 previous versions I use Crash Plan to store photos in the cloud Every six months I archive the previous 6 months of photos onto external disks and store them at my kids house A bit much perhaps, but I lost about 2 months worth of photos, a professional friend of mind lost 12 months of photos.

Couple of things. 1. I use an xrite color passport to calibrate each camera I have. It sets up a custom profile that you can automatically apply in Lightroom. This will ensure you get the same results between make / model cameras, even corrects for the differences in sensors between different same model cameras 2. If you are going to shoot in that same gym, shoot a gray card, then you can do a blanket correction across all the pics you take in there

i've been running a RAID 5 array for over 15 years, drives have died along the way, but never had an outage. I have well over 150,000 pics. Every night I copy new / changed files to a second array, why? Just in case I do a delete of the wrong file or directory. In addition at the end of every year I copy that years pics to a hard drive and store them at one of the kids place.

My laptop has a built in SD reader, I found a Lexar USB 3 reader was easily twice as fast

Interesting. If you look at the amounts of heavy dodging and burning that Ansel Adams did to get his stunning images. Under a very strict interpretation, are his prints doctored?

<p>I've been to both as well, I've been to NZ about 7 times for vacation, only did Rotorua once. My recommendation is to get to the South Island, rent a car and drive the circumference. </p> <p>I wouldn't recommend a bus, you'll find yourself wishing the bus would stop so you can take pics about every 15 min.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Here's my strategy.</p> <ol> <li>Check with your own auto insurance company - many policies cover you when you are driving a rental. Make sure that coverage applies if you are renting overseas</li> <li>I typically rent away from the airport. Example - Las Vegas Airport taxes can easily add 20% on to your rental car charges. Take a cab to the nearest hotel with the same rental companie's counter and you'll save both the 20% plus often get a cheaper rate</li> <li>Warning - if you don't get the insurance, not only are you on the hook for some / all of the repair costs, but often you get socked for a "loss of use" for the rental car damaged. </li> <li>I never get the personal items insurance, etc.</li> </ol>

<p>it sounds like you have either opened up an empty database, or you have a corrupted database.<br> Look for any files with an extension .lrcat and check the length and modified data</p> <p>Do you do backups? </p> <p> </p>

I'd you have the budget, Eizo CG series monitors have built in self calibration. I've used them for years and love them

I use a software called Downloader Pro, it allows me to insert all my iptc info as I download the pics from the memory cards. I can put in author, keywords, etc. I include my name as keywords. It also allows me to set the copyright info as well

The histogram is completely independent of the monitor profile. Having said that, if you have a monitor that isn't properly calibrated, and you start doing adjustments in light and dark areas to make it p,easing to your eye (as you're seeing it on the I calibrated monitor), after you make your adjustments you might then see a distorted histogram as you describe

My experience with GPS is that it work work reliably inside building (e.g. Airports). Here's an alternative that used GSM for location http://www.amazon.com/LugLoc-Luggage-Locator-Rechargeable-Bluetooth/dp/B00B77709O/ref=sr_1_8? s=gps&ie=UTF8&qid=1440588453&sr=1-8

<p>It's all over Detroit - Most all of the pics have GPS coordinates. If you click on the map under the pic, it will open a large map</p>

<p>For the last 18 months, I've been going into Detroit, documenting abandoned schools, factories, hospitals, etc.</p> <p>For me, it's been a real lesson on dealing with extreme dynamic range situation, etc. On a sunny day, I'm dealing with a very dark room with extremely bright sunlight coming through the window. I'm not a fan of the over processed HDR look. Tried a few HDR apps and found one that produces a truly natural HDR look that I'm happy with. For some of the extreme situations I've shot 14 pics (1 EV increments), used 10 of them to create the final photo.</p> <p>I've been able to work on composition as well. When I first starting doing this, I'd have to go back 3 or 4 times to get the image right. Now my eye is better trained. Below is the link, I'm interested in hearing your thoughts, ideas, etc</p> <p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/sets/72157655390634261">https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/sets/72157655390634261</a></p>

<p>It's true that the paper is important,</p> <ul> <li>Make sure the paper is archival type paper - Look at some of the papers from Hahnemuhle, etc Download the spec sheet for each paper, they will have info on any OBA's being used, whiteness rating, etc</li> <li>Avoid resin back paper</li> <li>Check out a site that does testing of printer / paper / ink combinations for longevity : http://www.wilhelm-research.com/</li> </ul> <p>If you are mounting / framing the print, the you have to attention to additional areas</p> <ul> <li>The backer / foam core board must be archival quality. Otherwise you risk that material "out gassing" something that will interact with your paper causing yellowing</li> <li>When framing, the best is to use glass, however if you want to use something else, I recommend an archival acrylic with UV filtering</li> </ul>

<p>For my set up, I have :</p> <ul> <li>i7-5960 8 Core processor</li> <li>64GB Memory</li> <li>500GB SSD for boot drive</li> <li>4TB regular drive</li> <li>1TB SSD for Lightroom catalog and previews</li> </ul> <p>The SSD for the boot drive is amazing - boot time is very short, loading large apps like Photoshop are much much faster.</p> <p>I've found the SSD drive for the catalog / previews really helps. However I really doesn't seem like Lightroom is multi threaded. Things like publishing to Flickr, face recognition, exporting pics seem to be single threaded. </p> <p>I agree about the memory for the most part, however, I do some extremely large HDR panoramas, I think the largest I did was over 600 shots, the memory climbed over 32GB on that one.</p>

<p>I would recommend the 24-105. </p> <p>I've shot through the plexiglass windows of a helicopter in the past, and have never been happy with the results. It's ESPECIALLY bad if you use a polarizer.</p> <ul> <li>See if the company has a tour that they do for photographers - with the doors off. That's really the best way to do it</li> <li>If they don't do it with the doors off, see if they have any helicopters with portals you can stick the lens out of</li> <li>Be mindful of the blades when you are shooting wider angle. I've had to do some serious photoshop work to clean up some images that had the blades showing up at the top</li> </ul> <p>Here's some shots I've done - the majority of these were shot out of a helicopter with the door off : <p> </p>

<p>Is it an absolute must? No</p> <p>Is it really nice to have 3-4 stops of stabilization? YES!!</p> <p>Bottom line is this - You can compensate for the lack of stabilization by bumping up the ISO to higher levels. The downside is that you'll get more noise with higher ISO. For some noise isn't an issue. For me personally, I would rather shoot with a lower ISO, get a cleaner image. If I need noise for artistic reasons, I can always add it later. If my photo starts off with a lot of noise, I can mitigate it, but usually I sacrifice sharpness</p> <p> </p>

<p>I have no experience with your printer, however I can tell you that during my research prior to buying a 24" printer, I found two things</p> <ol> <li>Switching ink cartridges for B&W print consumes ink, depending on the specific printer it can be very significant (I think one printer would end up losing about 10% of a cartridge when you switched it out)</li> <li>Getting color profiles that work with your printer and the paper you want to use can be either easy or difficult. Some paper manufacturers do a great job, others not so much, so you are left if the need to either get a custom profile done (very expensive), but your own measuring device and software to create your own, or buy a printer with a builtin calibration system.</li> </ol> <p>Item one above knocked out a LOT of printers.</p> <p>Item two - ultimately I choose to get a printer with builtin calibratoin</p> <p>So, with those criteria, I ultimately chose the HP Z3200PS. It has 12 cartridges - including 3 blacks/grays and a built in calibration system that prints it's own test charts, scans them, and creates profiles automatically. I have to say I'm extremely happy with the color accuracy and the quality of the prints on just about any material I've thrown at it. The only thing I don't like is that it won't do borderless prints on canvas </p>

I got my 5DSR, I've been trying to create a moire situation, different clothes, TV, computer monitor, Etc. so far, no moire.

<p>The only way I can see this happening is via stitching. Use a long focal length lens, shoot a rows and column kind of arrangement.</p> <p>I think the widest I've ever done was about 47404 pixels wide</p>

<p>Has anyone heard of any moire issues when using the 5DSR in Landscape or Architecture shots?</p>

<p>Agree with Steve - I've seen the 32GB limit in the past as well.</p>

<p>Well, there are a lot of amazing abandoned churches as well :</p> <p><a href=" Here</a></p>