tudor_apmadoc

<p>If you want to see the actual pics they are at : <br> <p> </p>

Over the last couple of years I've been shooting a lot of urban decay shots in Detroit. I'm sure you've seen the news stories about the abandoned buildings in Detroit. I find them fascinating for a photographers perspective. The conditions can be a room that is pitch black with extremely bright sunlight coming in a very small window, these have forced me to really sharpen my skills, to pay more attention to the range of light and using HDR tools to the the photo I want. however, I stumbled across an old church, thought I'd just check it out, and it was stunning on the inside. I started checking out other old churches in Detroit and found there's a serious number of amazing churches there. I put them into a slide show on you tube Let me me know what you thing -- WTA

<p>Just a heads up....</p> <p>Lightroom CC / Lightroom 6 catalog backups are now stored in a .zip file. The good news is that the zip process compresses the size of the backup significantly.</p> <p>The downside is that once you back it up, if the uncompressed size is over 2GB, you can't unzip the file with normal WinZip, 7Zip, utilities. You can double click it and view the contents, but once you try and restore you get an error.</p> <p>Did some digging around found out that Adobe is using a Mac type compression / zip format, not a Windows type. </p> <p>You can get around this by getting a windows version of a Stuffit Expander.</p> <p>I've been on the phone with Adobe support around this issue - the feedback from the engineers don't think of this as a bug. I explained that they have two fundamental choices</p> <ol> <li>Since 99% of the customers running windows have WinZip, 7Zip, or Windows Explorer for their zip file processing - they should create a zip file that is compatible with something the customers have.</li> <li>If not fixed, the support will be handing a lot more calls as customers run into the issue</li> </ol> <p>In addition, many corporate customers have restrictions on which utilities can be installed on a windows platform.</p>

I don't shoot with white cars any more. I use a neutral gray card - included with the color checker passport. I have the person hold it near their face shoot one pic, then proceed.

Here's my personal backup strategy... I have my primary set on a RAID 5 array. Every night I use a utility to copy from the primary to another RAID 5 array I use a cloud storage to copy the photos to the cloud Once a year I copy all the photos to new set of hard drives and store them at one of my kids house - about 8 miles away In the event of a disaster, the once a year copy at my kids house eliminates the issue of having to do a mass download of everything.

<p>Several Factors</p> <ul> <li>Interface being used - USB 2 is VERY slot, USB 3 is WAY better, eSATA is better of the 3</li> <li>Rotational Speed - 7200 is way better than 5400. Rotation speed has a direct impact on sequential reads and writes of large files (like RAW images and video)</li> <li>Average Access time - this has a direct impact on random access things like the LR database, searching a large HD for a specific file, etc.</li> </ul> <p>The VAST majority of external drives are 5400 RPM drives and use a very slow stepper motor. What's amazing is just how hard it is to come by the actual specs. I've looked at the portable drives for both Western Digital and Seagate - they don't list any real specs, not the RPM's, the average access time, etc.</p> <p>Now beyond that - there's a huge range in throughput, it can have a lot to do with USB chip / driver within the drive itself. Check out testing by PC world last year <a href="http://www.pcworld.com/article/2138482/shopping-for-the-best-portable-hard-drive-these-models-earned-our-highest-ratings.html">here</a></p> <p> </p>

<p>I shoot a lot of urban exploration pics in abandoned buildings, factories, schools, churches in Detroit. The light can be quite stark - going from complete dark on one side of the room to glaringly bright light near the windows. The challenge is to capture it all. Especially hard to capture the mullions (glass dividers) on the windows, or the stained glass windows</p> <p>I started with 3 shots, quickly found that wasn't going to do it, tried 5 but got the same issue - not enough range. Went to 7 for most had to do to 10 shots for a few.</p> <p>I have a 5DM3, it will do 7 by itself, to get more, I half press the shutter release, let it go, then turn the large dial in the back of the camera to adjust the EV up or down to get the additional range. Example... I will shoot 1 set of 7 starting at -8 EV, then a second set starting at -1 EV. That will give me 14 shots total to work from. I won't use all 14, but I can then pick which within those 14 give me the the desired effect.</p> <p>I use NIK HDR as my tool of choice. My goal is to keep it as realistic as possible, with an occaisional exception. </p> <p>Here are some examples</p> <ul> <li>https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/15883586286</li> <li>https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/15244069746</li> <li>https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/15876559760</li> <li>https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/15127106515</li> <li>https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/15200369408</li> <li>https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/15730057918</li> <li>https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/15749412197</li> <li>https://www.flickr.com/photos/tudorapmadoc/15740286548</li> </ul> <p>Let me know what you think</p>

<p>Sharpening needs to be based on what the output is going to be. Sharpening for the screen is different that for a inkjet print.<br> The factors that you need to be cognizant of for sharpening include</p> <ul> <li>Printer type (inkjet, laser, continuous tone, etc)</li> <li>Media type (glossy, matte, etc)</li> <li>Viewing distance</li> </ul> <p>I've found that Nik Sharpener Pro works best for me - it has the inputs to get you started. You choose output type, paper type, printer resolution, viewing distance, and the software will do the initial work for you. (you can tweak as needed) </p> <p>My first use of the product was using a Z3200 HP printer with matte paper and a black and white print. What Nik showed me on the screen looked WAY WAY to over sharpened, but I tried it regardless, and the output from the printer was stunning!</p>

<p>There's things you can to to mitigate this</p> <ul> <li>Make sure you use acid free / archival backer board and mat</li> <li>If you use glass in the frame - make sure it has an UV coating, if not, don't hang where direct sunlight or very bright lights shine on it</li> <li>If you use plastic instead of glass - you need to make sure it's listed as archival and make sure it's got UV coating</li> <li>Inks - check the manufacturer of the ink for longevity. If you are using 3rd party aftermarket inks, you can almost guarantee that it will fade very quickly</li> <li>Once you make sure you have the longest lasting inks, then make sure you pair it up with right paper. The right ink with the wrong paper will fade quickly.</li> <li>Refer to Wilhelm's research data : http://www.wilhelm-research.com/</li> </ul>

<p>I have a list a mile long....</p> <ul> <li>Machu Pichuu</li> <li>Tibet</li> <li>Phuket</li> <li>Cambodia</li> <li>Japan</li> <li>Hungary</li> <li>on and on</li> </ul>

<p>Here's my slightly paranoid way of dealing with backups / disaster recovery</p> <ul> <li>The primary storage is an external RAID array</li> <li>I have NAS RAID storage, each night new files or any changes to the photos I've been working on get copied to the NAS RAID storage (1st copy)</li> <li>I use CrashPlan for cloud backup (2nd copy). It costs $5/month for UNLIMITED storage with no automatic delete.</li> <li>Each year I copy ALL of my photos to hard drives and keep them stored at my kids house (3 miles away) (3rd copy)</li> </ul>

<p>To me there are a key differences between lab and home prints. I started off using a labs, tried several. Here are the issues I came across</p> <ul> <li>Very difficult to find a lab that prints on archival paper, a couple claimed they did, what arrived wasn't</li> <li>Color permanence is not verifiable</li> <li>Paper is very thin. Often it's printed on resin paper which makes mounting very difficult</li> <li>Routine issues with WYSIWYG, sometime even from the same lab when reordered weeks later. The new print didn't match the first print. Sometimes what you get back didn't match what was on my screen, I would have to adjust and print again. I've since resolved this by getting a Eizo monitor with built in calibration.</li> </ul> <p>I finally broke down and spent the money on a HP Z3200ps. It's got a built in photo spectrometer that allows me to create a custom profile for any paper.</p> <p>For the prints I do, I use heavier paper from Hanhnemule 200-350 gsm. With the HP inks it's been tested for an estimated color fastness of over 100 years by an independent lab.</p>

Here's my humble opinon On my hard drive I have a directory tree set up Photos 1980's 1990's 2000's 2010's 2010 2011 2011-05-18 Bay City I import the new folders into LR. The key to finding the pics you want is KEYWORDS. clouds location name, people, city, state, country, window, door, etc

United means to add the length plus width. So 20 x 30 is a united measure of 50 Standard size frames that include mats often don't match the 2:3 format of the camera so be prepared to crop, however standard sizes are the least expensive US standard sizes are like 8x10 11x14 16x20 I would recommend 11x14 as a minimum, 16x20 would be better for display The standard sizes in your country will likely be different

<p>For future ref....</p> <ul> <li>Save the pic you want to find on your desktop</li> <li>go to google search, then choose the image search feature</li> <li>Drag the image from your desktop to the search box</li> <li>Voila, Google finds images that are the same or close to the same</li> </ul> <p><br />I did this on the photo you gave, Amazon (US), Amazon (DE), and Amazon (UK) came up. All referencing the poster that Jeff mentioned.</p>

<p>I would also recommend Antelope Slot Canyon - it's in Page Az, about a 2-3 hour drive east from Grand Canyon. There are tours that are timed specifically for photographers to capture light shafts coming into the canyon</p> <p>Examples : <p>The's one guide I would recommend - Mylo (mylo@fourthworldimages.com) - he does amazing photography work himself. He knows that entire area from Zion to Monument valley.<br> </p>

<p>I would also recommend using LR and it's cataloging capability. You can select a group of photos, then add the childs name, school, teacher, etc as a tag. Will make it way easier to track down photos years later</p>

Cambridge is an easy train ride out of London, easily walkable from there. Check out the university buildings, most of which don't have restrictions. ---- Canterbury is a train ride as well ---- London itself is great just to walk around and explore ---- ---- ----

When you print, do you have it set for application to control the color? Often I see this happen when you have a mismatch where Photoshop thinks it's controlling color, and the printer thinks it's controlling color

For me, it's simple math. I did some checks on current prices. No, I did not spent a lot of time at this, I did use brand names like Verbatim, Western Digital, etc. I'm not here to debate the longevity of different media. However I will say if you live in Texas and store your archival material of any type in the attic, it's not going to last. If you live next to the ocean in Miami and store it in your attic, it's not going to last. Heat, humidity, salt air, will have a huge impact on any media. Regular media (which really does have longevity issues) BluRay disc is roughly a dollar a piece and holds 25GB = 0.05 per GB DVD is roughly 0.23, holds 4.7 GB = 0.048 per GB Archival media BluRay is not out so that's a question DVD is roughly .75 = 0.16 per GB External drive 2TB = 75.00 = 0.036 per GB If you toss out the normal DVD due to longevity concerns, the it's cheaper to create 2 sets of backups on external HD than it is to do a single backup to archival DVD

<p>I would recommend NOT doing 1:1 previews for everything. I have mine set up to discard the 1:1 previews after 30 days.</p>

You need to find out the fqn. Of the SMTP server, the port it uses, etc Refer to http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/outlook/send-receive-from-app

In the past, when I've tried to set up or use a catalog on network storage, LR gave an error message. I haven't tried it since LR 3, so it might have changed. However, I also remember that the database used isn't set up for multiple users at the same time. No concept of record locking, etc. it can be extremely tricky. What happens if person A adds some new keywords at the same time person B is changing other keywords, making some edits, and changes the caption all via a batch change

First, tell us what your goals are. Hobby, part time, full time pro? Areas that you want to focus on : studio, landscape, urban, street, other?

<p>On staying with the same version of PS forever....</p> <p>It all depends on where you are going to do your raw processing. If you want Adobe PS or Lightroom to do the raw processing, then you need to stay currrent. The latest Camera RAW update (8.5) will work with CS6+</p> <p>I suppose if you never plan on upgrading your camera body or buying a newer lens, then your premise is true.</p> <p>In terms of rent vs. buy... I think you're better off in a car environment of comparing lease vs. buy. I purchased a car, kept it for 10 years, net net was that it cost me about $500 per month for the entire 10 years (including interest on a 5 year loan, repairs, tires, etc) If I leased the same car, it would have been $350 per month for 24 months </p>