tudor_apmadoc
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EOS TImer Remonte Controller TC-80N3
tudor_apmadoc replied to Life Photo-Documentaries's topic in Canon EOS Mount
was it sold by Amazon or was it sold by an Amazon reseller. There have been cases where counterfeit items hit the market - flashes, batteries, lenses, etc. Another clue might be in the price - was it around the $135 or was it way cheaper? -
What quality are you saving the jpegs at? It's been awhile, but I seem to remember that the lower quality (50) would over saturate the colors Try 80-90
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<p>First, the caveats. I'm partially color blind - called a medium red-green color blindness. As such, I have to make sure everything is calibrated. I have an Eizo monitor that calibrates itself. I have an HP Z3200 printer with a built in photo spectrometer to calibrate the printer to the specific paper I'm using</p> <p>To take it to the next step, I started using the xrite photo passport - both to calibrate the sensor and as a gray card</p> <p>Even with my level of colorblindness I've been able to detect subtle changes once calibrated. I've compared some sample's taken with 5DM2, 5DM3, 5DSR, 5DM4, and the GX9. The calibration charts pre calibration do have subtle differences, the calibration charts post calibration do indeed match. Again I'm partially colorblind, so the differences might be might higher than I'm able to detect.</p>
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Printer ink
tudor_apmadoc replied to donald_miller5's topic in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
<p>I concur with Robin, years ago I used 3rd party inks (ones with good reviews) in my HP Z3200. Long story short, I sold some prints to a customer - a year later they had faded badly.</p> <p>Even worse - the cheap ink manged to clog the print heads to the point I had to replace them, but not before I paid for an expensive repair bill to have the cheap ink flushed out of the supply lines. </p> <p>I saved about $400 on the ink, the repairs were $350, replaced a dozen prints at a cost of $200 (including ink and paper). All and all, not pleasant and would never use 3rd party inks again</p> -
<p>Hahnemule purchased Harmon sometime ago and has 60" 300gsm smooth cotton paper<br> http://harman.hahnemuehle.com/site/en/828/matt-cotton-smooth.html</p> <p> </p>
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<p>The 5DM4 has in camera corrections for lenses</p> <ul> <li>Peripheral illum corr</li> <li>Distortion Correction</li> <li>Digital Lens Optimizer</li> <li>Chromatic Aberr corr</li> <li>Diffraction Correction</li> </ul> <p>Lightroom has some built in corrections for lenses. <br> Questions</p> <ol> <li>How do the two approaches differ</li> <li>Which of the above overlap what Lightroom does?</li> <li>If I turn on any of the above, is that info carried in the EXIF info?</li> <li>Does Lightroom recognize any of the above were turned on, if not, does it end up over compensating?</li> </ol> <p> </p>
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Cloud storage?
tudor_apmadoc replied to sallymack's topic in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
<p>I had a friend who stored images on external hard drives with no backup. One of the drives died and they lost an entire years worth of photos. I started to backup, call it crazy, overkill, whatever.......</p> <p>I keep multiple copies</p> <ul> <li>Primary storage - a RAID 6 array</li> <li>Each night changes are copied from the primary storage to a 2nd RAID 6 array</li> <li>I backup the primary copy to Crashplan - even though I have 2Mb upload speed, It's still way behind. I've been shooting with a 5DSR, raw. I shoot a lot of pics, so, it's a LOT of data to move</li> <li>2-3 times a year, I'll copy files to an external drive and store it at one of my kids house who lives 10 miles away</li> </ul> <p>Expensive? Yes, but then, what's the cost if you lose a year, or a decades worth of pics?</p> -
<p>Just an update - Detroit is making significant strides in a come back, one of the things they are doing is getting VERY tough on owners of vacant buildings - get the building secured, submit plans for rehab, etc. Great for the city, but it's making it tougher to find buildings to shoot</p> <p> </p>
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Printer drift?
tudor_apmadoc replied to scott_rubey's topic in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
I am partially color blind, so I need to keep things calibrated to keep things accurate. I purchased an Eizo monitor with a built in calibrator that runs automatically every 30 days. My printer is an HP Z3200ps with a built in photo spectrometer, it calibrates the paper and stores the calibration internally. It reminds me to recalibrate the paper every 6 months or so, though I also recalibrate after changing print heads / ink cartridges I make sure I use the Photoshop option to have the printer manage colors. I've been doing this process since 2009, recently reprinted a photo that I had printed in 2011. I had a friend who's has an amazing eye for color accuracy and he couldn't see any difference, swore I must have run a batch of 2 copies at the same time -
<p>There are 3 NIK modules that are my constant tools</p> <ul> <li>HDR Pro - it's one of the very best in terms of ghost eliminations and allows me to produce very natural HDR images</li> <li>Silver Efex - it's the best B&W conversion tool I've every used</li> <li>Sharpener - The last step in my workflow before printing - takes much of the guess work out of things</li> </ul> <p>Mind you, I bought them back about 10 years ago before Google bought them out, I think the package cost about $249. It's free now - to me it's a simple no brainer. REALLY great tools at zero cost. </p> <p>Hint - watch video tutorials on how to use it, I learned a lot from them on how to get the most out of the tools</p>
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<p>I will track down the name of the guide company we used, the key is to make sure you ask for a photo tour, they will give you someone who knows the best photo spots, etc. </p> <p>Depending on the clouds, weather, you can get some AMAZING shots from the rim. </p> <p>Here's some that I took : <a href="
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Should I upgrade from my 7D for Real Estate?
tudor_apmadoc replied to l_shap's topic in Canon EOS Mount
<p>Here's my take. Shooting real estate often means taking pics in tight spaces. The problem is that a cropped sensor creates a tele effect with your lens. A 1.6 crop sensor means that a 24mm lens becomes a 38mm lens. This has an effect on what you can capture.</p> <p>I shoot a Canon 5DS R, shoot a lot of urban exploration pics in abandoned office buildings, schools, etc. The difference between what you can capture with a cropped vs. full frame sensor is dramatic.</p> <p>I would recommend the full frame sensor for that alone.</p> -
<p>I've run into this as well, found for very large stitched panoramas, I had to go to .psb files</p>
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Is the bad quality my photo lab's fault? 35mm
tudor_apmadoc replied to tori_cur's topic in Beginner Questions
You have to take the season into account. It looks like later fall, early early spring, leaves are off the trees, the grass is dormant. The McDonald's sign, and the partial view of the blue sign look fine. One issue is they likely scanned as .jpg files, that instantly limits you to 8 bits. But the question is at what quality. When you create a jpg file you have a choice what quality, some apps go from 1-10, others have different scales
