BelaMolnar

I spend a half-hour just to find a way to replay, make a comments here. It is a colorful disaster, difficult to navigate no logic,commands strewn all over. I think, I'm finis with this new website. To bad I paid my feed for this year.

And hardly can I see this bloody light grey text too.. I not going to post anymore and my remove,if I can a whole images of this an-logical web site. Confusig, hard to read the text, UGLY UGLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .UGLY

Ugly, ugly and ugly. Please don't crop my images to oblivion. The logics of the menus totally an-logical. I don't care about the background and a bigger but butchered thumbnail images which is no longer thumbnail, it is a butchered images. Simple is better and the original format, arrangement was much, much better, viewable, simple and original. I don't b l d care about the colorful background. To rearrange photos in the gallery is creasy, it is not shifting the whole role to the left or right, and the image inserted replacing the image all ready there and the image now goes to the moved image place, which is not the action I like to have, I like to have the system to work as worked before. To rearrange the galleries listing is not working. That mach in the first hour, get tired, live the b l d computer.

BLM.

<p>Very simple. Just look at the aperture ring on the camera to see the aperture set. White dot on the camera body above the lens mount, pointing to the lens aperture, 1.4 to 16. or, what ever it is set, Ai or not Ai Nikon lens you using. Using 60 years manual cameras, with NON Ai or Ai, I never had a problem with this.</p>

<p>Hi Fred. Thank you for your help. Yes, I blocked one of my comments on one image, because I did a comments on the wrong image. But, why this only one blocked comments, on one image blocked all of my images "comments block" disappearing? Now, when I find this image and unblocked, all the comment block reappeared on all of the images. I can't get it.</p>

<p>I'm still unable to add comment or reply to comments, the tab to " add comments" do not show up on all of my images. Please help.</p><div></div>

<p>William, I know, I'm not new in this web site. The column in the bottom just not showing up what ever I do. Fortunately her, it shows and can add a comments, but not under the images. I tried rebut , refresh several time, and no results, the tab; <strong>"Contribute A Critique"</strong> do not show up. I haw no idea why. This happened a couple of week ago, then, everything get back normal, but, now, it is permanent and I have no idea what to do ?! Maybe, the guys at the other end can do something.</p>

<p>When I click on my image, I can read the comments, but, I don't have a chance to reply or comment. No place to add comments, (?)</p>

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<p>For the last picture, General Custer; I wonder, how many Indian, man, women and children he killed. You wanted to feel uncomfortable, read, The Conquest of the New World AMERICAN HOLOCAUST By; David E. Stennard. Or. A People's History of the United States By; Howard Zinn.</p>

<p>You have to send your camera for "sensor" cleaning, for a professional camera specialist, especially the reason, because it is a film camera.</p>

<p>Flying over the Branderberg Massive, Namibia.</p><div></div>

<p>Beside my D3s and D4 I'm a Df user and a happy one. I'm very happy with the camera and I believe, the quality of the images slightly better then the D4. Also, I'm very happy with the dial, how ever sometime in the cold winter of the day, I haw difficulty to change ISO setting, specially if I wearing glows on my hand. I would rather have the ISO dial at the top without restriction and a thiner dial at the bottom, as used to in the past on most of the film bodies. Absolutely no pop-up flashlight....! Basically, I like the camera as is very much a couple of small exception.<br /> I don't like the memory card excess at the bottom, I don't like the camera don't have a dedicated extended grip available in the sam style as the camera. <strong>NO NEED a duplicate dials at all....!</strong> It can be a "battery grip" to, to extend the bottom shape of the camera for better grip when you using longer lenses. Fo example, like the old Nikon/ Nikormat Elw cameras had, just a plane extension of the body, down a 1" or 1.5". It would help the handling of the camera with bigger lenses.<br /> One more time;<strong> NO pop-up flash, NO video please.</strong><br /> And, by your suggestion, Andrew, I could live happily without the monitor too.</p>

<p>The good one? Save them on multiple location and I<strong> print them</strong>. I never thrust a computer or any digital stuff. Actually, you real photographs are the print, NOT a digital file.</p>

<p>Hi Ralph. I tried what you saying here, and unable to see the rating the person did on the commented image. (?).</p>

<p>You really wanted to know . . . !?<br>

Learn you camera, and cameras how they work and why.<br>

Learn how lenses work and why.<br>

Learn to see the world thru the lens. Learn to see the subject in 2 dimension.<br>

Learn to arrange the subject in-front of you for the best possible composition by moving left or right, up or down, pre-visualize the image before you click the shutter.<br>

Never use a zoom lens in the beginning of a couple of years, zooming not helping you to get e good composition, Walking would do.<br>

Train you mind to visualize the subject thru a lens you want to use, distort or compress perspective in deepness or otherwise for the benefit of a good composition.<br>

Look for the detail, most interesting in the scenery in-front of you, don't get exited of the view what your brain can see. Camera can see subject differently, depend on the lens on it. The camera only a tool not a photographer, The photographer is YOU and you are the person whom creating the image, NOT the camera.<br>

Experiment with wide, medium and tele prime lenses, for example a 28 mm 50 mm 135 mm prime. Always look true the camera-lens to see the subject and put down the camera to enjoy the scenery the view,<br>

Look up a lots of landscape photographers and painters images and study them.<br>

Always, pre-visualize, pre-visualize and pre-visualize.<br>

And that's only the beginning.<br>

Learn how to process those images in your digital darkroom, One of the most important steps to get a good photograph, print, out of you well visualized and photographed images.<br>

Happy shooting.</p>

<p>Hi Robert. I had the problem too, but in my case, I had no return. Moving in a apartment, darkroom was out of question. For a wile, I shot film and dropped for development with contact print, then scan them. Didn't worked. The best desktop scanner, the Nikon Super Coolscan-4000 ED wasn't good enough for my test for b&w, for slide film it was reasonable. Then, I bought my first digital, a Fuji pro . . . . 6MP camera. Image quality was ok the rest of the camera a disaster, then the Nikon D300, and so on. The way I shot with my digital cameras, most of the time I'm on manual, including the focus and using a good practice I squared in the last 60 years. Hardly ever chimping on the little monitor at the back, except a couple of really critical cases, situation. So I happily using digital nowadays, and sometime go out for a walk with a rangefinder and shot a roll or two, drop the film for development with contact print. I my never going to scan them, occasionally pull then out of the envelope and see and feel the film or the contact print and happily back to the envelop. Digital photography is good, fast and you have more chance for a good print. I meant, real print, because the image in digital format in your computer, not an image at all. The print is your real photograph only.<br>

Happy shooting</p>

<p>In the first place, what was the reason, can you explain why you bought the Nikon F6? And why do you need a 50 mm focal range, what kinda photography do you desire to do with a film camera, like the Nikon F6 and the 50 mm lens?</p>

<p>Hi Glen. You mean you images is a setting Moon, if I understand right, not my. I facing east, and the only shot I can have, sunrise and moonrise form my balcony. I believe, the pollution over the city add a natural ND filter to the Moon and helping tone down the light of the Moon, so as long as the Moon in this area, and the sun just setting or in the lower horizon, you can haw an optimal lighting on both subject. otherwise, you have to use a Grad-ND filter for the moon of two exposure, as I do sometime, on tripod and fast exposure one after the other with proper setting for the light, then combine them together on PS.</p>

<p>2nd shoot.</p><div></div>

<p>A wile ago was an argument, you can't make a proper exposure on the land/city and the Moon in the same time in the same frame. It is possible in certain time of the hour, or, later on when the scenery is to dark, Moon is to bright, using Grad-ND filter to tone down the Moon bright light and balanced out with the ground/landscape/cityscape light.<br>

The following 2 image shot with a Nikon D3s and an old Nikon 300mm f/4.5 ED lens @f/8, hand held from my balcony, being lease to go down the garage ( 16 floor to B2 ) to fetch the tripod from the car. I would repeat the shot when the Moon higher and brighter and shot with tripod, my needed longer exposures as I used for the attached shoots. Please don't mention the noise, I shot with a high ISO.</p><div></div>

<p>Dear Anders. I studied "art" from my younger age at 6-7. I attended schools, work-classes, and name it all the way to my 78 years of age. I believe, I know, what is contemporary, modern, and so on and so on art style, having enough time to see and experience all of them. And I like modern art myself very much. I hope, I'm not arrogant and snob either. My statement is still stand, Paris or not Paris.<br>

No more comments.</p>

<p>Enjoy? . . . .It is a joke.</p>

<p>Fire Hydrant Detail.</p><div></div>

<p>Namibian Abstract.</p><div></div>