stephen_komp

<p>Martin - <br>

Thanks for the link, but I already have this manual and it doesn't describe how to change a screen. </p>

<p>Does anyone know where I could find instructions that would show me how to change the focusing screen on my Mamiya 645 Pro TL? <br>

Thanks in advance - Steve</p>

<p>Alan -<br>

I realized after I posted that I should have scanned in an example and I will do that tomorrow and post it. Thank you for your advice. If you would, check back tomorrow afternoon and take a look at the posted image. I'd like to get your opinion.<br>

Many thanks - Steve</p>

<p>Yes, it does kind of look like that, but more "bubble-like".<br>

Thanks for your responses - this has been driving me nuts.</p>

<p>I use it quite a bit and get fantastic results. I use it at 68 degrees for 13 minutes - EI 100. I regularly enlarge 35mm negatives to 11x14" with virtually no noticeable grain. You should give it a shot. I think you'll be pleased.</p>

<p>Hello Everyone -</p>

<p>I have several students who have gotten really strange markings on their B&W film and I can't, for the life of me, figure out why. The negatives have markings that almost look like soap bubbles. These marks are actually in the emulsion, not on the surface of the film. That's what I can't figure out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.<br>

If it helps, they are using:<br>

Tri-x or HP5 in Sprint developer mixed 1:9<br>

Sprint Stop<br>

Sprint Fix<br>

Edwal LFN Wetting Agent</p>

<p>I fired the shutter and wound the film and now the slack is completely gone. It looks as I would assume ti should. I'm still going to test it though.<br>

Thanks for all the comments and advice.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>David -</p>

<p>It's the curtain (or cloth) you see when you take the back off the camera. I didn't realize there was more than one.<br>

Thanks for your reply - Steve</p>

<p>Hello Everyone -</p>

<p>I recently ordered a Mamiya 645 Pro TL from keh.com in EX+ condition. The camera looks fantastic except for one thing. The cloth shutter on the back of the camera is slightly wrinkled. I don't know if I'd even call it wrinkled - more like it seems to be a little slack at the bottom end of the camera. Is this common? Is this something that will affect use? Should I return the camera? I have not shot film through it yet to see if it is an issue.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance - Steve</p>

<p>Hi Everyone -</p>

<p>Does anyone out there use the AE prism on the M645 or 1000s? I am thinking about buying a meter prism for my M645 and the AE prism looks like the best deal. Can this be operated manually as well?<br>

Any recommendations would be geatly appreciated.</p>

<p>Thanks in Advance - Steve</p>

<p>Hello Everyone -</p>

<p>I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the AE Reflex Finder (FK402) for the Mamiya 645 Pro. I currently have a M645, but I am thinking about upgrading to a Pro and I like the looks of this finder.<br>

I'm wondering if it can be used manually as well as Automatic?</p>

<p>Thanks - Steve</p>

<p>Thanks Dave. That helps.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Hopefully, someone can help me. I need to mount a 35mm lens (with a 42mm screw mount) into a large format shutter. The end result will be a camera that will project circular images on 120 film.<br>

Does anyone know of a shutter that will take a 42mm screw mount lens?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>David -<br>

I think I have the first screen you listed. I do find it rather dim. Would you recommend another brand that is brighter?<br>

Thanks - Steve</p>

<p>Hi David -<br>

Thanks for your response and advice. First, let me say that I am not blaming KEH in any way. They are a fantastic company that I have had nothing but good luck with. If I call them, I know they will take it back or exchange it... no questions asked.<br>

I have tried both spot and average meter readings with both cameras - strangely enough against a plain wall with no direct light. They don't match up.<br>

I do not know if it is a Bronica screen in the camera. This is my first Bronica. Is there some way to tell?</p>

<p>Thanks - Steve</p>

<p>Jordan -<br>

The first image you reference looks like a "through the viewfinder" image. You can find many examples of this here:<br>

http://www.flickr.com/groups/throughtheviewfinder/<br>

And a tutorial of how to do it here:<br>

http://www.russmorris.com/ttv/<br>

I assume with a medium format camera with a macro lens you could do the same things as these guys are doing with digital.<br>

Steve</p>

<p>Hi Everyone -</p>

<p>I recently purchased an AE-i prism from KEH in EX+ condition. Cosmetically it is EX+, but I noticed when compared to my Canon EOS-1n meter (which is right on), it is about two stops off. I have not shot an entire roll of film through the camera yet.<br>

My questions are:<br>

1) Is this common for this meter prism?<br>

2) Could it actually be the back I'm using and not the meter?<br>

If it is two stops off, it's easy enough to change the ASA rating of whatever film I'm shooting. It just seems like for the price I paid, it should be right on.<br>

Thanks - Steve</p>

<p>Thanks Lex. I had a feeling that might be the problem. The same thing happens if you use the spool that comes with HOLGA cameras.<br>

Ahhhh... Quality Control.</p>

<p><br /> Best - Steve</p>

<p>Very Sorry - I should have mentioned that it is 120 film.</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Has anyone else had issues with fogging while using ADOX 100 ART Film?<br>

I shot a few rolls and there is significant fogging around the first and second frames and also on the edges. I've never had this problem with any other films.</p>

<p>Thanks -Steve</p>

<p>Hi Everyone -</p>

<p>I realize this has been discussed on various posts, but I can't seem to find definite answers. Before I spend the money, I'm hoping for some advice.</p>

<p>I have a lot of Tri-X 220 film that I've stockpiled and would like to use. I have a Kiev-60 with an 80mm Biometar lens that I love. I want to use the lens AND be able to shoot 220 film. I've heard that ARAX cameras will not accept Hasselblad backs. I heard the Hartblei 1600M does.<br>

My goal is to pick up a reliable Hasselblad 220 back to use with a camera that will take it - and use my 80mm lens.<br>

Can anyone share their experiences and offer some help with this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance - Steve</p>

Hi Everyone -

I have a Canon EOS-1n that I just purchased off EBAY and it has the dreaded blinking BC (I knew this when I

bought it. I basically paid nothing for it). The body is in amazing condition. It looks like it was never used.

I've searched the web for solutions and tried cleaning the contacts, replacing the PB-E1 with the original

handgrip from my other EOS-1n, etc..... nothing works. So I guess I'm going to send it in for an estimate. My

question is, should I send it to Canon Service or someone else? Has anyone had this problem and if so, where did

you send it? Also, can anyone give me an idea of what it cost them to repair? I live in the NorthEast, so it's

easy enough to send it to Canon in New Jersey, but I wanted to check and see if there are any other recommendations.

Many thanks in advance - Steve

Hello Everyone -

I need a front body cap for a Bronica S2A to modify in order to mount a homemade lens. I looked on EBAY and

can't find one. Does anyone know if there is another type of cap (for another model of camera) that would fit it?

Thanks in advance.

Steve