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Posts posted by johnmarkpainter

  1. <p>I don't have to Cashier. That will be handled by the event. I don't do a lot of events but will also be doing a wedding this summer....<br>

    My Epson is too old, slow and unreliable for an event/bulk printing.<br>

    If I had to do 8x10 I would probably just go pick up a fresh, smaller inkjet.</p>

    <p>I found a cheap Dyesub that goes up to 6x8 which might be large enough...a HiTi Hi-Touch 731PS.<br>

    Might be TOO cheap though?</p>


    <br /><br>

    <br /><br>

    <br /></p>

  2. <p>I am going to shoot an event where I am shooting Docu-candids at a seminar for two days followed by portraits (about 200 8x10's) that need to printed and autographed and handed to the subjects. I'll have dedicated space where I can set up lighting/backdrop/tripod/computer/printer.<br>

    My home printer is an Epson 2400.<br>

    Will most likely be shooting with a Nikon D200.</p>

    <p>My guess is that there is a cheap "photo" printer that could do a good job with Glossy.<br>

    I could shoot Tethered to a computer/printer or maybe use a wireless CF Card.</p>

    <p>Any tips for workflow or a printer?<br>

    I could shoot maybe ten at a time and then swap cards and print.<br>

    I could round up an assistant to run the printer if I had to.</p>



    <p> </p>

  3. <p>Paul,<br>

    One IMPORTANT thing to keep an eye on....<br>

    Look very closely through the Lens with the Shutter held open and no back on the camera so you can really see.<br>

    The Shutter blades can work loose and scratch the INSIDE of the front element (Guess how I know??!)<br>

    David Odess can fix that by the way.</p>


  4. I got a nice f3.5 Tessar Rollei with a CLA for $300.

    Might be a good start for you.

    The Screen is dark compared to a Beattie or Maxwell but it is SHARP.


    If you decide you really like Rollei and want to upgrade, the second body is great to have for using different rolls of film at

    the same time (the same price as a Hasselblad back!).

  5. What body are you using it on?

    I tend to mostly use mine at events at 1.8-2.8 and I think mine is sharp and focus is reliable.


    Lock it down on a tripod and TEST it.

    Depth of Field is extremely shallow at 1.8 and you have to shoot carefully when it is wide open.



  6. Ron,


    Do try to stick to the 80 for a while.

    Many photogs go longer for landscape.

    Not that there is anything WRONG with Wides of course.


    You can get good deals on the 50 C.

    The C T* has more modern coatings than the plain "C" version.

    CF lenses are newer. Spare parts are easier to find.


    I felt like the 50 was a better lens than the 40.

    Also that the Hasselblad SWC ("Superwide") is also better than the 40.



  7. Just to be a trouble maker....




    Back when other systems were more expensive (especially for wide lenses) the Pentacon was a way you could 'get by'.

    Now that the prices have dropped so much it doesn't really make sense to me.

  8. Diafine is the way to go. It is a true speed increaser.

    Agititation won't change your curve with Diafine.


    I wouldn't use that D76 but D76 is a Grain reducer.

    Rodinal is a slow but sharp developer but also sharpens the grain.

    I find HC110 to be a good compromise between D76 and Rodinal and I use HC110 when I don't the grain of Rodinal and I

    am working on 35mm or half frame film.


    Most of my DDX experience is from Lab Developed film.

    It is pretty 'clean'. My local lab always overdevelops a bit though.



  9. I've had a wierd problem pop up...


    When I apply a plugin, the Preview image is really messed up unless I zoom in to (or close to) the 100% range.

    It wasn't doing that before...

    It makes the Adjust/Variations function unusable as you can't zoom in that preview.

    I use Alien Skin Exposure 2 and now the preview is REALLY hard to evaluate.


    Is there something I need to reset maybe?

    A prefs file to trash??

    I'm on a Mac by the way.




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