johnmarkpainter

This Film is DEFINITELY not going to the Landfill yet...my test roll of the Velvia 50 looks good.

Just a little dark and maybe more grain that it should have.<div></div>

The 80mm is the 'normal' view lens for Hassy....much like your 50mm on small format.

If you know the work of Helmut Newton, it was almost all done with the 80

TXP does fine in Rodinal with increased Exposure (try it at 200) with reduced Development.

jmp

http://www.photo.net/photo/1901897

They were stored room temp.

One of my questions is whether I should expose the E6 a little harder.

I wasn't metering CAREFULLY, but this 1st roll was a little on the underexposed side.

jmp

Another big possibility is that the leak happened when you removed the Film.

Was it pretty loose when you took it out?

Have you seen the Holgamod where there is a small bit of foam behind the supply spool?

Helps keep the tension better.

jmp

I have a large box of old unused Film...all formats from 35mm to 4x5....C41, E6. B&W...

In particular, I have Velvia 50 and Provia 400 (the old version) that I bulk rolled in 35mm.

I think they expired around 2001 maybe.

I am wondering what traits I should look out for in expired E6 film.

I just shot a test roll of the Velvia 50 and it still 'works'.

Not a lot of dynamic range...nice colors.

I also have bulk rolled expired Portra 400 NC that still looks great.

Thanks for any insight/tips

jmp

Carl,

Film SIZE matters too.

4x5 Plus X looks different than 35mm Plus X (due to magnification)

jmp

You will have to experiment in processing now....

Only change one variable at a time. Just the process time.

I would try three different development times with Film shot in all the same lighting.

If you don't mind sacrificing the roll....clip it into three strips (you might cut in the middle of a frame) and process them

separately. (or just shoot two more rolls).

If I was trying to save a roll that I NEEDED, I would err on the side of underdevelopment.

If I was experimenting I would try one roll at 15 min and one at 19.

THEN I would try to find a source where you can get a Film and developer where you KNEW what they were.

That way you can benefit from the experimentation of millions of other people.

jmp

Well...it would be REALLY helpful to know what your Film and Developer are.

Did you accidentally push the film or are you experimenting?

Generally you would increase the development time by maybe 20% per stop but it is diffferent for every film.

You will likely end up with a lot of Grain and high contrast.

jmp

Not all Hassy lenses are that expensive.

What are you looking for?

I got my 50 with a Filter Ring dent from KEH but it was still $400 :(

Now, I hardly use it! Be SURE that you want the extra lenses.

The 150 has been useful and they are cheap if you stick to "C" lenses.

jmp

Check www.keh.com.

Their prices are generally excellent and if something doesn't work properly you can return it.

jmp

The Yashica 124G is the best of the low end.

Mamiya 330C gives interchangeable lenses.

Rollieflex is king.

All of them can make great images.

jmp

Plus X is great in studio lighting as well.

I have two big boxes of Plus X 4x5 (expired) that I need to use up

I would be looking for a "2" Taking Lens.

I might not mind the image degradation....will test it out on Film tomorrow.

It SEEMS to work through the finder, but the Parallax changes things enough to make it confusing.

Is a "2" the same thickness as stacking two "1"'s?

As you probably know...there isn't much depth of field with these.

jmp

The details are fuzzy to me but I'll try...

Some of the confusion on these is because of the AE Version (for the 67II only).

I am fairly certain that the TTL Prism is 90% and the unmetered is 95%.

The TTL Prisms you are seeing on KEH have the On/Off switch but there is yet another version that is automatic.

The TTL prism has a cludgy coupling to the Shutter Speed dial.

You have to REMOVE the Lens before you can change out the Prism.

The unmetered Prism looks cooler (I have an unmetered Nikon F so I am biased).

My Leica, Hassy, Rollei, Pen F and Graflex are all unmetered so I am definitely biased.

jmp

Really?

That would be good news...the eBay seller isn't being very cool about it so far.

jmp

Carl,

HP5 in Rodinal 1+50

http://www.photo.net/photo/8078957

This shot was TX in Rodinal 1+25

http://www.photo.net/photo/1901897

This one is AGFA in Rodinal

http://www.photo.net/photo/1833283

This one is TX Pushed one stop in Rodinal

http://www.photo.net/photo/1833396

This is also a push TX in Rodinal

http://www.photo.net/photo/1838394

Carl,

The REAL answer is...if you are interested, TRY IT YOURSELF.

Great images have been created with just about every Film/Developer combo out there.

You can't really go wrong using D76 or HC-110 or Xtol.

You CAN go wrong using Rodinal (and I LOVE Rodinal).

I personally like to be at least a LITTLE wrong :)

jmp

I just bought a Rolleinar set on eBay that was mismatched :(

The Viewing Lens is a "2" and the shooting Lens is a "1".

If I can't return it...any one need the #1 Lens? I already have a set of those.

I would love to find a #2 shooting lens to complete that one.

jmp

Just to really confuse you....you might replace D76 with HC-110.

It is a syrup and can be used like Rodinal....lasts forever too.

Similar look to D76

Rodinal just looks so SOLID. Not appropriate for everything but I use it most of the time with Tri X.

This guy is my Rodinal with Tri-X HERO

http://www.ralphgibson.com/

jmp

4, 6, 14, 18, 19, 28 for me. Would make a nice album.

If you haven't do so already...check out Winogrand: http://images.google.com/images?

client=safari&rls=en&q=Winogrand&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&um=1&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title

I have LOADS of snaps of my friends as well but those aren't the shots that get printed :)

jmp