johnmarkpainter

<p>An 85 1.8 would have been nice if you wanted to shoot Tighter.<br>

A 2.8 Zoom would have just given you slower shutter speeds.</p>

<p>The reviews look pretty good.<br>

The main drawback I see right off is that it looks like you only get 30 5x7 prints before you have to change the ribbon.</p>

<p>jmp</p>

<p>Decide what pixel dimensions you want for your JPG files and what 'quality'.<br>

Check your Photoshop help files (or Google) for "Image Processor".<br>

That will do the job in 5-10 minutes.</p>

<p>jmp</p>

<p>I don't have to Cashier. That will be handled by the event. I don't do a lot of events but will also be doing a wedding this summer....<br>

My Epson is too old, slow and unreliable for an event/bulk printing.<br>

If I had to do 8x10 I would probably just go pick up a fresh, smaller inkjet.</p>

<p>I found a cheap Dyesub that goes up to 6x8 which might be large enough...a HiTi Hi-Touch 731PS.<br>

Might be TOO cheap though?</p>

<p>jmp<br>

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<br /></p>

<p>P.S.</p>

<p>I would also consider shooting in JPEG and using a printer with a Card Reader and printing straight from the CF.</p>

<p>jmp</p>

<p>I am going to shoot an event where I am shooting Docu-candids at a seminar for two days followed by portraits (about 200 8x10's) that need to printed and autographed and handed to the subjects. I'll have dedicated space where I can set up lighting/backdrop/tripod/computer/printer.<br>

My home printer is an Epson 2400.<br>

Will most likely be shooting with a Nikon D200.</p>

<p>My guess is that there is a cheap "photo" printer that could do a good job with Glossy.<br>

I could shoot Tethered to a computer/printer or maybe use a wireless CF Card.</p>

<p>Any tips for workflow or a printer?<br>

I could shoot maybe ten at a time and then swap cards and print.<br>

I could round up an assistant to run the printer if I had to.</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

John</p>

<p> </p>

<p>But Lex....you RINSE though correct?<br>

I'm with you....I keep my Dev times longer and always use a Water rinse for the Stop.<br>

Then TF4 Fixer.<br>

jmp</p>

<p>Paul,<br>

One IMPORTANT thing to keep an eye on....<br>

Look very closely through the Lens with the Shutter held open and no back on the camera so you can really see.<br>

The Shutter blades can work loose and scratch the INSIDE of the front element (Guess how I know??!)<br>

David Odess can fix that by the way.</p>

<p>jmp</p>

I got a nice f3.5 Tessar Rollei with a CLA for $300.

Might be a good start for you.

The Screen is dark compared to a Beattie or Maxwell but it is SHARP.

If you decide you really like Rollei and want to upgrade, the second body is great to have for using different rolls of film at

the same time (the same price as a Hasselblad back!).

Two edged sword..."professionally used" means a lot of wear.

"Lightly used" and it will be clogged!

What body are you using it on?

I tend to mostly use mine at events at 1.8-2.8 and I think mine is sharp and focus is reliable.

Lock it down on a tripod and TEST it.

Depth of Field is extremely shallow at 1.8 and you have to shoot carefully when it is wide open.

jmp

Brook,

If you load your photos through a self serve kiosk, they are being compressed and resaved (RUTHLESSLY).

If you upload them to a one hour...they are being compressed and resaved.

You need to make friends with a lab tech and they can tell you the best workflow at THAT lab,

Loading a TIFF at a kiosk wont help

You could try to have each version on a layer and blend them that way.

Use the Red channel as background and then have the green one on top and blend in the opacity to taste.

You could erase (or partially erase) areas of the photo where you don't need the added detail.

Ron,

Do try to stick to the 80 for a while.

Many photogs go longer for landscape.

Not that there is anything WRONG with Wides of course.

You can get good deals on the 50 C.

The C T* has more modern coatings than the plain "C" version.

CF lenses are newer. Spare parts are easier to find.

I felt like the 50 was a better lens than the 40.

Also that the Hasselblad SWC ("Superwide") is also better than the 40.

jmp

Another word about Maxwell....

If you order a new one you might have to wait a while. One-man operation...

His "Hi-Lux" screen is the one that I really like.

Have had them on Nikon, Hassy, Rollei and 4x5.

jmp

Just to be a trouble maker....

DON'T GET A PENTACON SIX!

Back when other systems were more expensive (especially for wide lenses) the Pentacon was a way you could 'get by'.

Now that the prices have dropped so much it doesn't really make sense to me.

None of the scanners do as well with B&W as they do with Color Neg or Pos.

I've used Microtek, Epson (flatbed), and Coolscan V and 8000.

The Coolscan V does very well with B&W.

Don't know about the IV though.

No, Maxwell's (when I was shopping) were generally more expensive.

I think they are also better but not if you can't find them.

I've got a Maxwell in my 500 c/m and had them in several other cameras.

jmp

I just upgraded this week (from CS2) and am VERY HAPPY that I did.

In this upgrade there are great PRACTICAL improvements that have been made.

The new Bridge and ACR are much nicer to work with, all the interfaces are cleaner, functions are easier to find.

I like it.

jmp

I Was able to use a collapsible Summicron 50 on mine but it made me nervous.

Best advice...that 40 is a great lens. USE IT.

The 90 is a very sharp lens and can be bought really cheap.

Diafine is the way to go. It is a true speed increaser.

Agititation won't change your curve with Diafine.

I wouldn't use that D76 but D76 is a Grain reducer.

Rodinal is a slow but sharp developer but also sharpens the grain.

I find HC110 to be a good compromise between D76 and Rodinal and I use HC110 when I don't the grain of Rodinal and I

am working on 35mm or half frame film.

Most of my DDX experience is from Lab Developed film.

It is pretty 'clean'. My local lab always overdevelops a bit though.

jmp

Godfrey,

No, it worked fine at first.

NOW....I have restarted my computer again and it is working!

I will have to try several different File types/sizes/resolutions to make sure that it is working with all of them.

jmp

I've had a wierd problem pop up...

When I apply a plugin, the Preview image is really messed up unless I zoom in to (or close to) the 100% range.

It wasn't doing that before...

It makes the Adjust/Variations function unusable as you can't zoom in that preview.

I use Alien Skin Exposure 2 and now the preview is REALLY hard to evaluate.

Is there something I need to reset maybe?

A prefs file to trash??

I'm on a Mac by the way.

Thanks,

john

For the money....

Pentax 67.

http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?AsahiPentax67.html~mainFrame

Hasselblad is not as rugged as the Pentax 67 but they are very solid.

THe main thing there is to decide what negative size/shape you want and if you want/need Film backs.

Or get BOTH like I did :)

jmp