johnmarkpainter
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Posts posted by johnmarkpainter
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You are most likely to get a rash. Especially if you have a bit of developer on your hands, then stop and then some Fix.
The PH balance of your skin goes crazy.
On Film, I use a water Stop bath an Alkaline (TF4) Fixer.
jmp
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Just to pile on....NO!!!!!!
Look around at www.keh.com
I just got a Pentax 67 (original version) non-metered Prism and a 135 f4 macro lens for $175 TOTAL.
jmp
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I read a good thread that basically said to think of the 8000 as a slow High quality scanner that also has a Fast mode for
quick non-crucial scans :)
I have an 8000. I did a BUNCH of scans that didn't have banding...then all of a sudden had heavy banding. Scanned
the same neg later and had no banding again.
Now I just use Superfine and it is great.
jmp
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In what developer?
I like them both but they don't seem that similar to me.
I use mostly Rodinal or HC-110 with them.
jmp
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Clive,
I used DDX with 3200 until I discovered Tri-X in Diafine and quit buying faster films.
As posted already though, Xtol and Diafine are good.
Rodinal with Delta 3200 gives CRAZY grain. Keep that in mind in case you ever want that.
Here is a scan of a print from that combo:
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You might mention what kind of photos you intend to take.
jmp
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Check your pressure plate for dirt.
Is it on more than one roll?
If yes, were they processed at the same time?
jmp
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I'm sure that is faster...but it is my understanding that in doing so you are boosting noise and trying to retrieve shadow
detail that never made it into your scan.
This is only an issue in dark images or if there are heavy shadows that might block up.
Most of my photos contain a lot of shadow which is why I am working on this.
jmp
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RE: The 8Bit switch
My computer is a Dual 1.8Ghz G5 with a lot of RAM but it starts to drag.
I generally keep the "raw" scan file saved so I can start over if I want to.
For important projects I do incremental "Save As" and do keep some layers.
Good to hear that the LED's and sensors don't 'get tired'.
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Go to a real lab.
I just did a Google for "Pro Film Processing Atlanta" and got this:
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I think I am getting closer to getting this right but want to make sure I am on the right path....
I think I am not getting all of the shadow detail from the film yet.
Does the scanner light get "tired"? (this is a used scanner).
I am using a Nikon Coolscan 8000, NikonScan 4 and CS2.
It seems like I should adjust the Analog Gain until my Histogram is 'to the right' without clipping.
I am scanning in 14bit mode.
No Levels or Curves adjustments in Nikon Scan.
In Photoshop I do any Levels/Curves/Color adjustments.
"Capture Sharpen"
Then I usually switch to 8Bit and do any further editing.
So basically I scan for the highlights and Photoshop the shadows.
Make sense?
jmp
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Matthew....
Do what you will, but there is a reason that people keep telling you to shoot NPZ :)
You are shooting medium format so grain won't be a huge issue.
Also...medium format generally involves slower and longer focal length lenses.
An extra Stop will be valuable. You are shooting Ice Hockey!
You will likely find yourself wishing for 1600 speed film.
Here is a 35mm shot with NPZ in near sunset lighting.
http://www.photo.net/photo/8017751
Here is another 35mm NPZ shot in Florescent light where I had to shoot f2.5 @ 1/15
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Matthew,
I love transparencies too but you should use Fuji NPZ
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Can you find a rooftop?
Building a 'tent' using white sheets and/or white shower curtain material is great for diffusing the Sun.
You need to have reflectors....an assistant to hold reflectors is nice but it causes you to have another person around which
can be distracting.
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I think this is HP5 pushed +1 in Rodinal
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I think this might have been Neopan 1600 in Rodinal:
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TriX in Diafine is good for clubs.
Pushing with Rodinal is more 'crusty' though.
I don't have many scans of those types of shots but here is a scan of a print:
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Abdul,
The Film size advantage of the 6x7 is such a nice advantage.....
The Pentax 67 was the standard fashion camera (pre-digital).
Nice variety of lenses....handles like a huge 35mm camera.
Big film that enlarges well with minimal cropping.
jmp
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You can get the edges of the Film gate with my Epson holders (4870) but not sprockets of course.
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If you are shooting Fashion you should go all the way and get a Mamiya RZ or a Pentax 67.
If you really want polaroids with the Pentax you can get a spare Pentax body for less than $100 and dedicate it to polaroid.
If you use alot of fill flash you will want the "LS" Leaf Shutter lenses for the Pentax system.
jmp
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You should get an A12 back.
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What do you want to know about them?
The 690 are BIG. Bigger than you think they will be.
The lenses are slow but great quality.
The Finder isn't as nice a Leica.
The Shutter isn't as quiet as a Leica.
You can't close focus.
The Gigantic negs are beautiful!
jmp
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David,
I have a Hassy, Epson 4870 and now a Nikon 8000 (also a Nikon D200).
Even when I only had the Epson 4870, the VIBE of the Hasselblad was still so much nicer that I only shot Digital when
the client didn't want to pay for film.
That said....scanning is a pain and a non-exact science.
I would like to own a D700 ALSO but Hasselblad is still way cooler.
jmp
iMAC or PC ?
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
The new iMacs are perfect Photoshop computers.
Get the iMac.
That said....I use both Mac and PC.
I use PC for recording music as the App that I use is more PC friendly.
On the same token, Photoshop will tend to be faster on a Mac.