johnmarkpainter

Oh yeah...my crops were 100% at 4,000 DPI.

I can't zoom in more than that.

Higher res scans wouldn't be of any use on these negs though....would just yield sharper grain.

What is your point?

You're shooting F16 at ISO 50 with a tripod IN DAYLIGHT.....of course it is sharp.

After the recent discussion of slowish films in Rodinal or D76, I happened to have a roll of Plus X to develop.

I did it in Rodinal 1+25 for 6 minutes.

The Negs are very solid looking with sharp edges.

Will do an HC-110 roll next time to compare.<div></div>

I wanted to make sure this was well documented as I had never heard it before....

I was missing a taking lens Rolleinar 2 (had the viewing lens).

A forum member suggested that I could stack two Rolleinar 1 together to make a 2 and I am happy to say that it works.

Thanks,

John<div></div>

Just a warning....

I screwed up a box of Arista EDU 4x5 in a freezer.

There are papers in between each sheet of film to keep them from sticking together.

Somehow, moisture formed on the paper and now each sheet has a little residue on it.

jmp

Daily carry with MF E6? That would cost me a fortune :)

You're going to need a good one for reliable E6 shooting.

The Bellows eventually fail but if they have been replaced, they should be good for a while.

I've had a few more modern Folers (Plaubel Makina, Fuji, Mamiya 6, Polaroid 180) and they made me paranoid.

I will often get a camera out and ready to shoot but then end up not taking a photo.

I felt like I was putting a lot of unnecessary wear on the bellows.

I still have a Crown Graphic and I leave it open 99% of the time.

jmp

Bob,

The Shen Hao with Bag Bellows is well made, cheap and light.

BUT

Tripod/4x5 and Film holders and Darkcloth in NYC?

If you will give up movements, you could shoot a "Fotoman" with a monopod....

http://www.fotomancamera.com/product_list.asp?id=335

Shuo,

You don't have to pick ONE......go to www.keh.com and get a Nikon N90S (cheap) and a manual 50 f2 and shoot a few

rolls and see how you like it.

jmp

Reala is excellent as is Fuji NPS.

I would probably go with NPS

I'm surprised there has been no mention of the Rokkor 28.

It is an excellent lens.

I sold mine because I kept on cropping or moving in closer for a 35mm view.

jmp

Unless you have money to burn it is crazy to buy new.

Go to www.keh.com and have a look around....The Nikon F5 is a crazy good deal.

Maybe add an F100 as a second body.

#1

I never said they were 'critically sharp'

#2

They were shot f2.8 at close range so the depth of field is minimal.

An 80C Planar is soft wide open.

#3

The steadiest hand or the heaviest Tripod, Mirror Lockup and Cable Release don't matter if your SUBJECT MOVES.

jmp

Does the Dye Coupler deterioration reduce the permanence of the Film even after it has been processed?

Something I am seeing on this film is a loss of sharpness but still with nice color.

I'm going to overexpose the next roll a little.

jmp

I do my own printing but only on Matte/Photo Rag paper.

Check out this online lab....excellent service and prices...FAST.

http://whcc.com/

When you get your profiles correct, you will get back exactly what you thought you sent them.

jmp

Carl,

One more that I just scanned....The Rodinal sharpness was really interesting on this one.

The Neg looked like the Beard hairs were sticking up off the Light box ;)<div></div>

Here is another one f2.8 @ 1/15.

Happened to nail the focus this time.<div></div>

Just to show that it is possible....

This was handheld (with a strap) 2.8 @ 1/15 with an 80C Planar.

HP5 @ 400 in Rodinal 1+50<div></div>