glen peterson

I had a 2740 years ago, the only banding that I ever got was when I tried batch scanning. It did look different from your issue, but when scanning individual frames I didn't have a problem. The problem that killed the scanner was when the film advance motor died.

as far as viewing on you computer try the cheap cardboard folders made by loreo.

 

http://www.3dstereo.com/viewmaster/lor-lite.html .

 

They are also nice to give away, so you can share your photos.

Stereo Photo maker is great software, last I knew it was still free.

 

http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/

I use an old adapt a roll 620. I have to use 620 take up spools, but it work pretty well. They are similar to the calumet models, but cheaper and in some cases(I hear) less reliable.

My 5400, has had a lot of problems. When it works, it's great. My problems involve the whining noise, inability to take the neg or slide holder in, etc.. I'm not sure what I do to get it to work, but it is always a long process. I've found, that if I keep the USB cable disconnected, and only connect and power up when I'm ready to use it, I have fewer problems. Maybe someone will come up with a real fix, and let us know.

 

I have the original scan elite f2900, which never had a problem. I keep it as an emergency backup, but I just don't want to install the scsi card into my new pc if I don't have to. And my epson 4870 is just not up to par when it comes to 35mm.

you could try an epson 3170, epsons webpage has them refurbished for $64 and free shipping.

Robert,

 

lex is right, check again, and you'll find that any corner drug store can do this.

you might want to check the date. Unless you have a time machine, and were actually in 2007.

Doug,

 

Interesting project, let us know how it works out. I too have an interest/obsession with stereo photography, as well as tinkering with cameras. For now my MF stereo is limited to a Sputnik, although I do have a canabalized crown graphic that shoots pairs on 4x5 film. I'd like to do a project similar to yours sometime in the future.

 

Glen

I make my calculations using.

 

http://www.mrpinhole.com/

on my crappy old 'cord, I have to press the button in the middle of the advance knob to get the film to advance. I've never used a V.

Are you using an older canon eos? If so, it looks like a gummed up shutter.

I got one similar to this one recently, for my wifes birthday. It is kind of small, but works as advertised. You also have to look at it in the correct angle, or the colors look a bit off(Typical of an LCD screen). She loves it, and almost every one that has seen it really likes it, and asks where I got it. I'm told the more expensive ones are 'better', but I haven't seen any to compare it to.

I've never had floaties, but when using Maco up100, the blue water is VERY dark after a pre-wash. This is normal, depending on the type of film you use.

I buy packages of pec pads and throw them away when I'm done.

Although they don't recommend the lithium battery as mentioned above, I've found that it works fine.

I bought a film recorder a while back, and did this with some black and white film. It worked very well. Although my enlarger is not of real high quality, I made a couple of very nice prints. I personally prefer the look of real b/w paper to inkjet, and this process was much easier than contact printing from a "digital negative". The film recorder is only a (polaroid Propalette 7000)4k Recorder, and only does 35mm, but works very impressively. I think I paid a total of $325 total for the recorder and software. I'm pretty sure it would work effectively for color as well. Slides also look really good.

Even for a film scanner, I have used 2x2 slide mounts, that are designed for 110 transperencies. They seem to work well when you put them into the slide holders.

(Unless there's a ViewMaster 'do-it-at-home' kit. I'd LOVE to be able to get my own slides made into ViewMaster discs! That would ROCK!)

 

 

There is such a kit, they have been around for over 50 years. Look for View Master Personal. The system has a camera, film cutter, and special reels to insert the cut slides into.

 

Unfortunately, I can tell you from experience. It is an expensive habit.

 

as for individual slide viewers, they are faily easy to find, and pretty cheap as well.

I love to do wood work, whether it be building cameras, or clocks, or whatever. For clocks, I get all my movements at Klockit.com. I've been very tempted to get one of the more elaborate movements and build a giant grandfather clock. Now I just need to come up with a few more hours in each day to get caught up with all my other projects.

The light meter on mine is supposed to shut off automatically, but sometimes the mechanism does get stuck. If I remember correctly it was a common problem.

I ended up getting one of these a few years ago. Shot 2 or 3 rolls through it, Then my 3 year old decided it was his camera. He ran around pretending to take pictures for months. Needless to say at some point the thing disappeared, probably at the bottom of his toy box.

Not sure if you are having the same problem, but my sp500 will get stuck with the mirror up. It only does this when I leave the meter on when shooting. If I turn the meter off, the switch near the lens mount, I have no problems.

My rollex patent does the same thing, just like my AAR 620. They spool the film inside out on the take up reel. I have yet to have film fog yet, but I have been very careful so far.

I have an ETRSI, that would fire at random times, until I put on an AEII prism. Then it worked fine. After a while, the timing in the camera itself seemed to fix itself, and has been running fine for a couple of years now, with or without the AE Prism. Sorry for not really helping, just a little info. I'm not sure, but I believe that when an AE prism is attached the timing of the shutter is controlled by the prism, without it, the camera controls the timing. Looks like the cameras timing system may be off.